I'm new to the turbo world, got a dodge daytona turbo. do these work? and if so how do you install em? thanks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1872599913

 

well i know you can make them from hardware store parts. and this particular item looks like it has been.

somehow it goes in between the blow off valve and the waste gate. i think that when the blow off valve opens, it opens the waste gate too. i may be wrong.

 

so is that the correct way to boost a turbo? I have an 86 dodge daytona 2.2 turbo. 7psi boost on 8.5:1 compression. I"m adding a intercooler and would like to boost the PSI more. I'm new to turbos so thats why I'm asking such a dumb question. and I did a search on it too, didn't find anything. thanks

 

I recommend getting an electronic boost controller or a manually adjustable replacement wastegate servo

 

Poke around the mopar sites, I think a guy named Gus (who recently died in a motorcycle accedent) came up with the basic idea for that design. With the mopar guys they call it a 'granger valve' because the best sourse for the parts is Granger and they can work OK.

Personally, I like the "put a restriction in the wastegate line and then put a needle valve/blead in between the restriction and the actuator" approach Again, plenty of info all over the internet, but this shoudl be enough to build one.

If you want it electronically adjustable what you need is an adjustable hobbs switch (pressure switch), and a solinoid valve. Hobbs switches can be had from a few places, and there is a factory one used on the turbo buicks that is adjustable if you pull off the little plastic cap that seals the adjustment screw that you can get at NAPA for under $15. There's also an assortement of others. For the solinoid valve... I'm not sure, you'll have to look around, I know that they were used on sy/ty's, saabs, subarus...

Basically, put the solinoid valve in the wastegate line and then mount the hobbs switch where it will see boost and wire them to a power source. When the pressure reaches the preset in the hobbs switch, the soliniod opens allowing the boost pressure to reach the actuator opening it. You may need a small blead in between the actuator and the solinoid valve depending if it's got a built in internal bleed (whithout a bleed once you open the wastegate it will stay open).

You can do it manually also, by disconnecting the actuator's shaft, cutting it and threading it so it will thread into a hex sleave. That will let you lengthen (lower boost) and shorten (raise boost) the shaft.

Or you can blow $400 on a boost controller