I'm curious as to the correct way to install hose ends on braided line.

I've done it before.. but they always get fubar'd... (looks)


I see professional cars that have perfect ends. How is this achieved? I'm assuming a vise?


What I did in the past:

1) Tape end of line to hold in strands
2) slide red "nut" down onto line
3) insert end into line & thread into nut
4) tighten with wrenches


This is ALWAYS the outcome:






Also, after a few uses, the swivel ends (female) always get VERY tight. So tight, that I cannot swivel the fitting to tighten/loosen it.. Is this caused from initial overtightening on the first use?


Just looking for some advice before I waste another $150 on hose ends this weekend. (HSR install)

 

Tape the ends, cut off with a dremel tool and the cutoff disks (prevetns fraying)

Use the lube to insert the end and either try to remove the tape after you inserted the hose or before inserting, your choise

Use a vise with the aeroquip alu clamps and AN wrenches to avoid scuffing

Metal tools like wrenches will almost always scuff and marr the hose ends.

Marck

 

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN them. I made this mistake. The wrenches that Summit and others sell is shorter to avoid overtightening. I just turn the wrench while holding it close to the open end so as not to get alot of torque out of. Motor oil works wonders when putting the fittings on the hose and I like a liquid thread sealer when putting eveything together. It seals the threads, but also lubricates them so they go together easily with no binding.

 

yeah I believe the effort required to seal a smaller sized hose safely is like in the 100 to 150 inch lb range (about 2 to 3 times as tight as you could with your bare hand) we are talking connection to connection not the effort required to build a hose.

 

When assembling hoses, I know Earl's tells you to stop tightening the nuts to within .060" of bottoming out (between the red and blue nuts in the pictures). What I do is stick a .060" feeler gage between those two nuts and tighten them until it bottoms out on the feeler gage. Voila!! Perfect hoses that won't leak, and you'll never break them off from overtightening.

 

I was told not to use sealer or lubrication on the threads for fuel lines

 

I just finished making my HR fuel lines and it went pretty good. I used Aeroquip ends. I cut the hose with a dremal tool using a cut of wheel. I tried the hack saw at first and it didnt look pretty. Once the hose was cut, I took the tape off the end and pushed the end into the red end of the fitting. You gottta kinda twist it in there. Then I lubed up the hose and threads with some oil and hand threaded the other part of the fittings on as much as I could tighten by hand. Then I put the red end in the vise with rags around it so it would scratch to much and tighened it to the right specs. They came out perfect. Well I hope they did, I havent tested them yet. ALso, once the red part of the fitting is on, you must put a mark or tape around the hose right under the end of the fitting. when you thread the other part of the fitting on, watch to see if the hose is being forced out of the red fitting. It should not move at all. AND you should always use AN wrenches to tighten AN fittings. Otherwise you will get what you see in the above pictures.

 

if it starts to get tight when assembling, you need more OIL

an adjustable wrench is your friend

one way that i do it that seems to work well for me is to install the fitting on whatever it intends to be used on and then assemble the hose there, seems to work easier for me than the vise route

 

I use permatex anti-sieze (looks coppery) the threads in a hose end fitting are light, roughly machined and not rolled so they tend to gall which can lead to a "half way threaded but still suddenly cross threaded" failure. It isnt for sealing it is for lubrication. I found also the cheaper you get (like earls or no name fittings) the more often this failure occurs. the extra buck or two for aeroquip is well spent. when the anti-sieze is used the fittings are truely re-usable also and tend not to cross thread while unthreading them either. Those of you that have done alot of these know what Im talking about. those that dont, do a few hundred or a thousand and you will see what I mean.

 

To be honest, I’ve never had a problem with assembling fittings, never broken one and have always had them come together right, though I did notice 1 or 2 that got a lot of scoring on the inside of the sleeve from the ends of the stainless.

WRT to the lube, I wouldn’t use anti sieze, just because it does have some solids in it that could cause problems with some systems. They do make specific lubes intended just for assembling fittings, but as strange as it sounds, Vaseline (if it’s going to carry anything patrolium based) or KY (if it’s carrying anything water based) work great and dissolve in the fluid if you get any inside the tube. I’ve got a tub of Vaseline sitting on my workbench just for this and for holding stuff like checkballs in place while assembling trannys…

 

dont get it inside then just on the threads of the two halves. I have broken quite a few mostly dissasembling them until I discovered this stuff. there is always this as well this helps alot http://www.bakerprecision.com/aqp12a.htm