500$ to burn!
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Car: 1990 Iroc
Engine: L98 5.7 350
Transmission: 700r4
500$ to burn!
I have a 1990 Iroc 350 L98, bone stock, I have 500$ to throw into it right now. What do you think would be the best thing i could do with 500$ to get some more hp?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 705
Likes: 0
From: Peoria, IL
Car: 1985 Z-28
Engine: a big one
Transmission: 4 spd auto soon to be a 6 speed
i betcha a bunch of people will say nitrous. could you buy a set of vortec heads for $500? you would need a different intake. what about a set of headers? do you have an ECM? An Ignition system upgrade is pretty nice.
Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
From: Willmar, MN
Car: 91 Maro & 97 Ram & 05 Roadstar
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 2.73
f you look around you should be able to get a set of vortecs for 300 used. Then get new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Or instead of ignition go to SFC's.
Thats my .02
Tyler
Thats my .02
Tyler
TGO Supporter


Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
the nature of a TPI motor is that they are so much torque and so little HP. just think what can be done if you could launch and have the tires not spin at all when you take off. I made an 85 305 TPI run 14.50 w/ a 1.8 60 ft. think traction. SFC's (homemade even), LCA's, drag shocks (if thats what you are into), panhard, energy suspension tranny and torque arm mounts, Eibach drag launch kit (if thats what you are into). I used to dust 350's by the handful just because they spun-spun-spun. another option would be a set of K&N filters, a TB air foil, a set of fresh valve springs and lightweight retainers because it is likely yours are shot or were never that great to begin with, to help you with a set of pro-form self aligning rocker arms in 1.6 ratio available for around $100-$150 from many ebay sellers and from tommy johnson's motorsport warehouse
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Car: 1990 Iroc
Engine: L98 5.7 350
Transmission: 700r4
That Tb airfoil...........I been having a lot of problems setting up a better air induction. In those 350's of those years that big *** radiator is in the way so you gotta make 2 right turns and then into a half inch plasticsplitter. Any good ideas on how to set it up?
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
That sorta depends…
Really the first thing that I would do to any f-body is subframe connectors, and between them and paying someone to weld them in you’ve spent your $500.
If it was me I’d probably be doing the welding myself (and for that matter I’d probably just buy some tubing and make them myself) and that would leave enough money to replace the LCA’s and PHR (panhard rod before the LCA’s, it will have a bigger effect on handling and acceleration).
Really, if it was me I’d probably spend about $25 on steel tubing for the SFC’s, box the LCA’s (about $4 worth of steel if you buy it at HD, nothing or next to nothing if you get it at the scrap yard), replace the bushings if needed (I’ve got a couple of sets in the garage), and either box the stock panhard rod (I’ve done that before, a bit of a pain to keep it straight, and I’d rather have something adjustable) or buy an adjustable PHR (they out there for under $100, probably cheaper then buying the tube and any adjustable ends that you could find to do it yourself). Then spend the rest of the cash on some bilstien shocks and struts and a set of ES front LCA bushings, install those and lower the car while I’m at it (whack about ½ a coil off the rear springs, get rid of the isolators and use some heater hose in it’s place, take 1 coil off the fronts and reinstall them with the rear spring isolators on top of them, they’re thicker then the fronts so you’ll get proper spring rates and a good ride height)
Next thing that I would do, assuming that you were going to do the work yourself would be headers (headman ones probably) and a dynomax muffler and tailpipes (should be able to do it for that price if you do the work yourself). Won’t give you the power that N2O will give you, but it will give you more power everywhere, all the time.
Why is this on the power adder board???
Really the first thing that I would do to any f-body is subframe connectors, and between them and paying someone to weld them in you’ve spent your $500.
If it was me I’d probably be doing the welding myself (and for that matter I’d probably just buy some tubing and make them myself) and that would leave enough money to replace the LCA’s and PHR (panhard rod before the LCA’s, it will have a bigger effect on handling and acceleration).
Really, if it was me I’d probably spend about $25 on steel tubing for the SFC’s, box the LCA’s (about $4 worth of steel if you buy it at HD, nothing or next to nothing if you get it at the scrap yard), replace the bushings if needed (I’ve got a couple of sets in the garage), and either box the stock panhard rod (I’ve done that before, a bit of a pain to keep it straight, and I’d rather have something adjustable) or buy an adjustable PHR (they out there for under $100, probably cheaper then buying the tube and any adjustable ends that you could find to do it yourself). Then spend the rest of the cash on some bilstien shocks and struts and a set of ES front LCA bushings, install those and lower the car while I’m at it (whack about ½ a coil off the rear springs, get rid of the isolators and use some heater hose in it’s place, take 1 coil off the fronts and reinstall them with the rear spring isolators on top of them, they’re thicker then the fronts so you’ll get proper spring rates and a good ride height)
Next thing that I would do, assuming that you were going to do the work yourself would be headers (headman ones probably) and a dynomax muffler and tailpipes (should be able to do it for that price if you do the work yourself). Won’t give you the power that N2O will give you, but it will give you more power everywhere, all the time.
Why is this on the power adder board???
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
If it’s an IROC, then the stock intake is pretty good… I really wouldn’t waste my time replacing it unless there’s something messed up or missing.
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