First run of the day of the bottle was a new best of 12.7@104 with a 1.74 60' on the 100 shot, finaly found the traction I needed (BFG drag radials hook better at 25 psi than a 18 psi). Second run was with the 150 shot, car just does run well with the 150 shot, a 13.1@95 with a 1.71 60', knock problem. Third run I changed back to the 100 shot and I luanched with a big'ol bang I though I took out the rear, but it ended up being a nitrous back fire. The back fire blew the nitrous jet clean out of the intake hose, tore the rubber part that goes from the MAF to the TB, took out my MAF and shattered the dual intake snorkle. So off the auto zone I went $149 later and the car runs again. So I drove home and the trans started to slip, I get ohome and find the trans full of coolant ! The back fire took out the radiator and aloud coolant to leak into the trans cooler. So a great day ends just the oppisite as it started!

 

Sounds like something that would happen to me.

 

man that sucks dude, can the tranny be saved?

 

I dont know I should know by tommorrow night. If not $1200 for a FLP street/strip trans with 3000 stall installed. Even with the problems 12.7 with a 305 on a 100 shot is kicken.

 

that sucks man!! i know all about nitrous backfires, pretty scary. i had the same problems when i had a tpi set up in my car, car ran great on a 100 shot but ran like crap on a 150 shot..but i took care of that issue

 

Ow.
Ow.
And . . . ow.

Bummer about that stuff man!

 

While you are down, pull your plugs and do a compression check on all cylinders. On one of my cars, a 100 shot caused a lean cylinder and a back fire. The backfire is what we heard, but the lean condition just barely pushed a head gasket and allowed some pressure into the cooling system. Not saying that is what happened to you, but it would be nice not to have a nasty surprise when you get your new trans.

Mark

 

Sucks man...thats racing.

^^^also the reason why i and the tranny shop i used to work for always reccomended to JUST run an external tranny cooler and not go through the tranny because that can happen

 

get an external tranny cooler!!!!!!!!


I will personally never run a radaitor/tranny cooler combo again in my life, then again I will never run an auto again

 

did you have one of THESE?

 

Yes, it blew the hole assembly out. The nozzle was still screw in when I opened the hood.

 

holy crap!

 

If you didn't hurt the motor you got off easy. SOrry to hear about it, though. 4 simple rules I have found to be true from personal expereince with nitrous:

1. Never EVER run lean. Be absolutely certain you are holding good fuel pressure on the bottle. Duck tape a fuel pressure gague to the windshield temporarily if you have to (that's what I do) but be CERTAIN- don't guess.

2. Don't get greedy with compression. Doesn't take a lot of comrpession to make power with nitrous.

3. Don't get greedy with spark advance. If you've got it jacked up to run better N/A then back it down when running nitrous or get a nitrous retard system.

4. Ignition has to be bulletproof. Even if you're got a good ignition system it only takes one bad wire or a some plugs that are getting marginal and trouble is right around the corner.

I've run HUNDREDS of pounds of nitrous through probably a dozen different motors and when trouble happens it's almost always related to one of the 4 above problems.

 

Ok, I found my problem. I jacked my timing up to run a better time N/A, but I also turned the timing retard up on my digital 6 to take it back down to a safe level. I forgot one thing, the auto retard doesnt turn on untill 2000 RPM. Without a stall converter installed I'm stalling to 1500 and than punching it. Well on the start I didnt get to 2000 before the nitrous made it to the engine. One mistake I will never make again.

 

5. Make sure you have a Hobbs style shut off switch. You never know when you may loose fuel pressure.

 

Sorry to hear that...

Maybe it's just me, but I don't think juice is a good idea at low rpm...thats what I was always told anyway...

 

Um, you most definitely don’t want to be spraying N2O under at the very least 3000rpm. With N2O you get the full power increase at whatever point it’s turned on. At low rpm’s this can be a VERY bad thing, both with respect to keeping everything flowing in the right direction (reason for you backfire) and wrt keeping the insides of the engine inside the engine.

While you’re checking things, make sure that your throttle shaft and throttle blades are still straight (I once bought a car that the previous owner thought that all sorts of things were wrong because after a n2o backfire he could never get it running right, and this ended up being the problem).

 

What Crossfilre said. It can go "Boom!" even with very mild spark advance at that low an RPM.

 

You might want to install a window switch to only allow the nitrous to be enabled in a preset rpm range.