Progressive nitrous controllers
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Progressive nitrous controllers
What do you guys think about nitrous controllers like the nitrous mastermind and the new nitrous express controller? How do you guys feel about pulsing solonoids (that is what these controllers do i assume)? Anybody here running one?
Thanks,
Seth
Thanks,
Seth
if you are going to run a BIG shot on an automatic, they work great, a little hard on solenoids, but they are great.
the new nx digital maximizer (i think) if i remember correctly, is the only controller to allow the full use of the solenoids' potential.
i am not talking about a 125 shot here, if you are getting serious, and want it to last, a controller is the way to go.
for example, BONE STOCK short block ford 302, stock heads, small custom cam, and a progressive 300 shot laid down over 500!!! to the wheels. runs consistently, as far as i know has never broken.
the real drawback to nitrous is eliminated with the controllers, which is the initial HIT(which is what most often breaks parts, besides bad tune)
get a GOOD large kit, like the NOS big shot, or something in that league.
adam
the new nx digital maximizer (i think) if i remember correctly, is the only controller to allow the full use of the solenoids' potential.
i am not talking about a 125 shot here, if you are getting serious, and want it to last, a controller is the way to go.
for example, BONE STOCK short block ford 302, stock heads, small custom cam, and a progressive 300 shot laid down over 500!!! to the wheels. runs consistently, as far as i know has never broken.
the real drawback to nitrous is eliminated with the controllers, which is the initial HIT(which is what most often breaks parts, besides bad tune)
get a GOOD large kit, like the NOS big shot, or something in that league.
adam
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by onebadwagon
if you are going to run a BIG shot on an automatic, they work great, a little hard on solenoids, but they are great.
the new nx digital maximizer (i think) if i remember correctly, is the only controller to allow the full use of the solenoids' potential.
i am not talking about a 125 shot here, if you are getting serious, and want it to last, a controller is the way to go.
for example, BONE STOCK short block ford 302, stock heads, small custom cam, and a progressive 300 shot laid down over 500!!! to the wheels. runs consistently, as far as i know has never broken.
the real drawback to nitrous is eliminated with the controllers, which is the initial HIT(which is what most often breaks parts, besides bad tune)
get a GOOD large kit, like the NOS big shot, or something in that league.
adam
if you are going to run a BIG shot on an automatic, they work great, a little hard on solenoids, but they are great.
the new nx digital maximizer (i think) if i remember correctly, is the only controller to allow the full use of the solenoids' potential.
i am not talking about a 125 shot here, if you are getting serious, and want it to last, a controller is the way to go.
for example, BONE STOCK short block ford 302, stock heads, small custom cam, and a progressive 300 shot laid down over 500!!! to the wheels. runs consistently, as far as i know has never broken.
the real drawback to nitrous is eliminated with the controllers, which is the initial HIT(which is what most often breaks parts, besides bad tune)
get a GOOD large kit, like the NOS big shot, or something in that league.
adam
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by onebadwagon
nope, 200 horsepower.
nope, 200 horsepower.
I dont plan on spraying a lot of nitrous to start with anyway.
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Which would work better for a manual car? I plan on running a Direct port 250-300 shot through a progressive controller and I couldn't decide if I should use the "time based" delay or one that increases the nitrous in relation to RPM.
Also would you classify the NOS Sportsman Pro kit as good quality? 100-300 shot.
Also would you classify the NOS Sportsman Pro kit as good quality? 100-300 shot.
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yeah, the sportsman fogger is a nice kit, however at this power level, unless you are either trying to hide the kit (under manifold) or show it off, a fogger really isnt neccessary at all.
a plate will be cheaper, easier, and just as effective.
consider when you change shots, for tuning or otherwise there are 16 jets to change as opposed to 2. jets are roughly 4$ a piece.
im not sure on the delay/rpm based choice, i would have to know how long the delay could be, because consider this, if you are running a full throttle switch, and DONT powershift, the delay would restart after every gearchange. you dont spend enough time in first/second to warrant much of a delay.
adam
a plate will be cheaper, easier, and just as effective.
consider when you change shots, for tuning or otherwise there are 16 jets to change as opposed to 2. jets are roughly 4$ a piece.
im not sure on the delay/rpm based choice, i would have to know how long the delay could be, because consider this, if you are running a full throttle switch, and DONT powershift, the delay would restart after every gearchange. you dont spend enough time in first/second to warrant much of a delay.
adam
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Yes this will be an under the manifold kit. I haven't seen a plate system for a HSR. All have been carbs.
I see your point for the delay activation. Its adj. from 0-10 sec. I guess the RPM one would be better in my case.
Are there any instructions on an install of an Under manifold kit? Or are they all custom installs?
I see your point for the delay activation. Its adj. from 0-10 sec. I guess the RPM one would be better in my case.
Are there any instructions on an install of an Under manifold kit? Or are they all custom installs?
yes, they are hard on solenoids, but much much easier on your motor.
which is harder to change?
which is more expensive?
which is bigger/heavier,harder to transport?
NX offers a lifetime warranty on their solenoids. that is why i went with the hitman kit, over the sniper.
adam
which is harder to change?
which is more expensive?
which is bigger/heavier,harder to transport?
NX offers a lifetime warranty on their solenoids. that is why i went with the hitman kit, over the sniper.
adam
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Tommy from third gen parts AKA Z28***** nick in chat, showed me a link to a place from the UK making beautiful bad *** pulseable selenoids made just for the rigors or a progressive controller. They will ship here UPS Im sure. They are a little pricey but better than hitting the juice and having the nitrous selenoid be the only thing that doesnt close after a cycle ("bang")
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by onebadwagon
yes, they are hard on solenoids, but much much easier on your motor.
which is harder to change?
which is more expensive?
which is bigger/heavier,harder to transport?
NX offers a lifetime warranty on their solenoids. that is why i went with the hitman kit, over the sniper.
adam
yes, they are hard on solenoids, but much much easier on your motor.
which is harder to change?
which is more expensive?
which is bigger/heavier,harder to transport?
NX offers a lifetime warranty on their solenoids. that is why i went with the hitman kit, over the sniper.
adam
that really depends, i know some people use them without fail, but others have had some problems
tom has a great point, i have never seen the special solenoids designed for pulsed use.
if you could get your hands on them, with some type of gaurantee, id be all over it.
doesnt the stealth rams use a LT1 style throttle body? if so, you could buy that plate, to run your nitrous.
honestly, with the hitman kit, i wouldnt be worried, if you have a good short block.
this is my combo,
stock 882 heads (i know, all i got, and i cant get nothing else)
small solid lifter nitrous grind
ross forged/eagle hbeams
stock crank
automatic in an s10 truck, im thinking hit the button about 3500rpm, by that rpm, a 200 shot isnt THAT hard on the motor, but if you cant afford to wait until that rpm to start the flow, then yeah, the progressive is a good idea.
adam
tom has a great point, i have never seen the special solenoids designed for pulsed use.
if you could get your hands on them, with some type of gaurantee, id be all over it.
doesnt the stealth rams use a LT1 style throttle body? if so, you could buy that plate, to run your nitrous.
honestly, with the hitman kit, i wouldnt be worried, if you have a good short block.
this is my combo,
stock 882 heads (i know, all i got, and i cant get nothing else)
small solid lifter nitrous grind
ross forged/eagle hbeams
stock crank
automatic in an s10 truck, im thinking hit the button about 3500rpm, by that rpm, a 200 shot isnt THAT hard on the motor, but if you cant afford to wait until that rpm to start the flow, then yeah, the progressive is a good idea.
adam
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
I'm looking at a 300 shot. I didn't think that the plate on a FI car gave equal distribution to the back cylinders. I'm sure plate is fine for a 150 shot but I'm not sure if I trust it w/ a 300. I know the carb. plates are nice and you can spray an azz load thru them. I think the possition of the plate has a lot to do w/ it.
What whould be nice is when holley make a kit designed for the HSR. One that sits under the plenum. Then I could see spraying a big shot on it.
What whould be nice is when holley make a kit designed for the HSR. One that sits under the plenum. Then I could see spraying a big shot on it.
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From: idaho falls id.
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 408
Transmission: TH-400
Axle/Gears: 4.11
im using the NOS pro race fogger on my car now shooting 300 . tried to use a jacobs mastermind , BUT when it was hooked up the car would not start! 2 different masterminds and help from jacobs tech , still no start. so now i just have a window switch set between 3600 to 7000 rpm. is working great . its just to much power for the et streets , i leave black marks through 1st , 2nd, and half way through 3rd!
mike
mike
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