Hey everybody...Im new to this board....but you'll probably be seeing alot of me soon. I recently bought another 91Z28 and its totally stock...minus some exhaust and ignition. Im planning on getting a ATI blower for my 91Z. I have made a list of what Im planning to do.....Im just curious if some of the exp. blown TPI people could guide me in the right direction.......heres the list so far

ENGINE:
Stock 2bolt block converted to 4bolt main caps
bored .030
SRP pistons(8.5:1 c/r with 64cchead)
LT1 connecting rods
some kind of alum heads(still stuck on that one)
COMP custom grind cam(depending on heads)

INTAKE:
stock plenum ported
SLP siamesed runners
stock base ported
58mm BBK TB(paid$50 for it!)

FUEL/IGNITION:
MSD 6AL
MSD wires, coil
bigger injectors(any idea on size??)

Thats all I have for now....Im sure there is alot more Im leaving out. Im assuming the blower kit comes with another fuel pump(inline)??? If not, should I get a bigger in tank pump? Im also not sure on how big an injector I will need...but if I get bigger, wont the ecm regulate pulse anyway?? Im also planning on keeping the 700R4 for now....and getting a new rearend. Sorry for all the questions guys, just want to find out what else I might need to get the ball rolling. Thanks in advance guys.....

 

ATI reccomends 24lb/hr injectors on a stock motor. I'd say depending on the heads you should get at least some 28lb/hr.
I recommend some AFR's if you can afford them and yes the kit comes with a fuel pump. It's external and easy to install.

I would also recommend the D-1SC.

 

if you can afford the d1sc that's the route to go as it's a much more efficient setup.

i'd invest in a stronger in-tank pump rather than using the external booster pump. booster pumps cause more problems then they are worth and ati's isn't cheap. you should be able to delete it from the kit and save yourself some money.

 

I like the 28 pound injector idea, but on the booster pump I disagree, on the dyno I have seen even cars using a hotwire twin in tank pump or the Walbro high pressure 255 LPH intank "blower/FMU" pump version setup fail to deliver the fuel when the FMU was used until the inline was reinstalled.

If you are going without the FMU (aftermarket or ECM swap) then by all means ditch the inline booster. It is so much easier dealing with ATI when you do things the way they tell you to (since they invented, created, and marketed it with the FMU and inline pump).

Atleast start out with it the way they want you to in the **** poor instructions. Then modify away to your hearts content. But if you ditch the inline pump and dyno, and the A/F ratio is way lean with no solution in sight- put the inline back on and see what happens. All the calculative power in the world cant seem to explain this phenomenon but I have seen it over and over on the dyno in person.

good luck...

 

OK now that a couple of my customers have paid me....I now have the money to go shopping Im going to get the D1SC. Where's the cheapest and/or best place to order from? I was thinking Thunderracing, but wanted to check with you guys first. I should have my engine back by Sunday, and it should be "around" 9.1:1 comp/ratio. Im going to get a set of Chevy's FastBurn heads.....and have them massaged. I was going to go with AFR 195's, but I got a deal on the FastBurns I couldnt pass up. Im going to start out with the inline booster pump for now....and see what happens. Does anybody know what the LS1's injectors are rated at?? There is a salvage yard across the street from my shop....he has some over there...and only wants $200 for them. They came off a 12,000mi car. I cant wait to get started on this.......

 

Order it from Dave Back:

dback@tenperf.com

http://www.tenperf.com

Not only did I get the best price by far from Dave, but he's the ONLY distributor that can substitute the twin hi-flow intercoolers in lieu of the three-core. That's because I initiated the design of this kit directly with ATI and gave Dave all the info on how to order it. I highly recommend making this change, less you like your engine to run significantly warmer year round...

And tell Dave I sent you his way.

Willie

 

Ok Im a little confused....do I want twin 3core? or sub the twin hi flow for a single 3core??? Just dont want to get the wrong one.....I will send him an email saying you referred me....

 

The "standard" no cost intercooler that's included with the D1SC is a three-core. My design eliminates the 3-core and replaces it with a pair of twin IC's. Dave knows all about it.

The three-core hangs immediately in front of the lower radiator air dam and severely restricts airflow to the radiator. The twin setup mounts each on the front corners, allowing free-flowing air to the radiator.

Go to my webpage, (SC Z!!), then click on Supercharger. You'll see pics of the twin setup. This "kit" is not an official offering from ATI. I designed it and worked with ATI to come up with a parts list to make it work. Because it is not official, no one else knows about it except Dave. I let him in on it because he helped me get the best price (by far) than anyone else when I bought my D1SC kit 2-1/2 years ago.

 

Ok now I gotcha....that does sound MUCH better....thats the last thing I want is to have the engine running warmer....Do you think 9.1 is too much? I have read ALOT about supercharging the last couple days....and it seems with the ATI intercooled..you can run more boost with full timing....correct? Im still a little stuck on which MSD to get...I have seen a couple with timing retards, boost retard, etc.....I want to be able to run as much timing as possible with detonation, right??? Im curious to see how much power Im going to have....and one last question..how come the TPI intake works so well with forced induction??? and not that great N/A??? Man Im excited......

 

....Do you think 9.1 is too much?

No. But this really does depend on how much boost you're planning on making. For most, I feel 14-psig is a realistic limit and you can run 9:1 as long as it's intercooled and/or water injected.


I have read ALOT about supercharging the last couple days....

Am I wrong or did I "persuade" you from the Exhaust forum?


....and it seems with the ATI intercooled..you can run more boost with full timing....correct?

This is correct, but only to a point. You won't have to retard timing at all, but the point where you will have to can only be determined by you. Every engine is different. But I can safely say that you won't have to retard timing for about the first 8 pounds of boost.


Im still a little stuck on which MSD to get...I have seen a couple with timing retards, boost retard, etc.....I want to be able to run as much timing as possible with detonation, right???

Without, not with. Timing on a supercharged engine is a fickle thing. Yes, you lose power by retarding timing, but doing so allows you to run more boost. So which is better? Simple. Less timing, more boost!!

I use the 6AL and MSD's programmable multi-function ignition controller with boost retard (P/N 8977). It allows you to graphically control timing vs. boost. This is the only controller I know of that allows boost retard to begin at any point past the onset of boost. In other words, no retard until 8-psig boost, then 1 degree per pound, for example.


Im curious to see how much power Im going to have....

You will NEVER go back. The difference will be night and day. You can't imagine it now, but once you've got it bolted on and you go for a ride, you will know what I mean. It will feel like a different car!


and one last question..how come the TPI intake works so well with forced induction??? and not that great N/A??? Man Im excited......

I can't answer your question specifically. But it seems to me that adding forced induction on almost any type of induction system seems to negate whatever deficiencies that induction system has because you're forcing air through it.

Also, a centrifugal supercharger is very efficient on the top end. This will allow you to rev the engine slightly higher and stay in the power band with no other changes.

Willie

 

I think what persuaded me honestly was the fact that its emissions legal....and that you can still have all your options and go fast too...that has been a problem with me for years...I start out simple and then get crazy with the motor to the point that its NOT street legal, and now having to deal with emissions it just makes sense to supercharge it. Most of my buddies are still old school....saying it will hurt the engine and you cant get rid of the detonation..blah blah blah. I think they are referring to an old 6-71 on a camel hump headed 400 or something..lol. Ill probably order sometime next week...when I get the motor back and make sure everything's cool with it. You guys have been alot of help....and I will continue to need your advice....:hail:

 

well...got some good news and bad news. The good news is I got the block back.....The bad news is, Im not going to be able to use it. It had already been bored over .060...had a ****ty hone job done on it...and looked to have slighty spun a bearing. Well chit...now what? One of my customers at work has a cleaned hot tanked 400 block(just the block). I can get a 350 forged crank relatively cheap....I think you know what Im going for here. .....a 377ci small block. Has anybody used this combo yet? How well would it work with the blower? I know 377's are a revving bitch of a motor....so I thought that combo might work well with the procharger. Or should I just get another 350 block and work on the 355 combo? Im gonna shoot for "about" 9.1 comp in either....just wanted to get some suggestions before the end of the week....thanks guys

 

my combo is in my signature but its similar to this one written about and emailed to me by a cool member here...

http://www.airflowresearch.com/artic...le03/A3-P1.htm

 

Well...I went ahead and got the block. I figured if I didnt use it...I could sell it easily. Im probably gonna build a 377ci with forged pistons, rods and a stock? 350 crank.....Could I get by with the LT1 connecting rods? Or should I just get the SCAT 4340. Im going to shoot for 9.1 comp and probably use the ZZ4 cam....I like the grind with the exhaust staying open much longer. Ill also probably go ahead and use the alum FastBurn heads I have.....might redo the exhaust valve to 1.60 though. I still need some suggestions on headers though....do I really need 1.75 primaries? I was going to go with the Hedmann(68491) tubular exhaust header for dual cats....along with my Catco high flows.....think that will be ok???? Im open to suggestions.....since the car is sitting....and I actually have some money..lol.

 

I know jack about a 377ci but I can tell you IMO don't get the Edelbrock TES headers. $$$ and kinda cheap. The black paint flakes off and turns white and it is beyond a PITA to install. I've heard good things from both the slp and headmans.

 

the black paint is for shipping purposes only. get ceramic coated.

 

I need some tech info the the D1SC blower if I could get it....Im playing around on the desktop dyno 2000 and I need the pressure ratio, belt gear ratio, and what effiency the intercooler works the best. I have the internal gear ratio 4.10:1?? and max rpm(62000) and max flow1400cfm?? Any help on this from the owners of these would be greatly appreciated......thanks guys.

 

Well...for those who care...I got my 377ci block back from machining($2500 ). here's the lowdown on it...

400block(standard bore)
GMPP forged steel(1030) crank(3.48stroke)
9.1 JE pistons(w64cc)
Oliver 6" rods

Im taking the advice of COMP cams and putting in the cam they sent me.....its part #08-305-08(.510lift int/exh, 220/229@.050). Im also putting on AFR's 210cc head. Im still not sure on header selection....but I have to stay emissions legal, so it will probably be the Hooker 2055's or Hedman68491 with a "willie" style dual exhaust. I hope to have the engine in the car and running by the end of this week. I do have a question or two though....will this thing run with the stock ecm(for now)???? Also, since it may be a couple weeks before the D1SC goes in, how streetable do you think this combo will be natural?? I have to get the tranny rebuilt first is why it make take a few weeks for the blower......thanks in advance guys....