I am building my 3rd motor for my 92 and I think i'm going the boosted route. I'd like to run a T- trim vortech with custom 4" plumbing to a intercooler infront of the radiator and then into my stealth ram. What parts do I need? I think buying your basic kit would be a waste of money since I would not use any of the stuff except for the compressor and the bracketts.

Any info would be appreciated.

 

come on, somebody has to know somthing?

 

kenwood, who posts on this board, has a custom built aluminum bracket that would work. Its 1/2 thick aluminum and the T-Trim will fit it perfectly. He also has cog pullies to go with it which would work on the t-trim.

maybe he will chime in here. All you would need, would be the t-trim head unit, oil lines and the tubing to go from the blower, to intercooler to intake.

 

Yes Guido is correct....I have the custom Bracket...ITS WAAAYY beefier than Base kit...plus it uses a Heim end tensioner...Plus I have a COG setup...it has a cog tensioner, Custom COG/Serpentine crank pully ... If your running a t-trim Id definately go with cog setup...Belts on a 6 rib or 8 rib would just burn away..

Plus I have the correct belts and a CD that shows how everything installs...I also Have a discharge tubing setup from a YS trim....The tubing is rough But it has the Mount already welded in so the MONDO vortech BOV bolts right on... While you would not NEED that I would throw it in...Because you can hack it up and use things like the BOV mount PLUS the oval to circle tube part to aattach your IC tubing to..

If you are interested Shoot me an e-mail @ nwokenwood@yahoo.com

 

Wow! That stuff sounds really cool! Where did you get it and how can I order it?!

Tim

 

UMM I bought it from this real TOOL...He was a dumbass....I ripped him off and bought this stuff from him very cheap...I think his name was tim >>>OOPS it was you...LOL JK

Actually you probably have more details on it than I do....Some of the stuff like the Pullies have never been removed from the bubble wrap...LOL

 

Thanks for all the info. If it is at all possible could you list everything with part numbers. or E mail me the info?

dwncam@aol.com

Thanks. Billy.

 

Also how does the pully system work for the rest of the car (crank,power steering, and altantor). Do they use a seperate belt, and the blower uses it's own cog? Will this setup all bolt up to the block or do I need to have a motor plate made?



Thanks.

 

Did you get my e-mail about it???

Anyway...IT does not have a provision for the normal POWER steering... It was made for BiG blowers...So the HOLE is not there to mount the PS pump..BIG compressors like an X trim would HIT the pump...So if you were to run PS you would have to make a bracket and run a remote tank system on the PAss side.. Or I supposed you Could have the bracket CUT to mount the PS in the normal location...

The cogs were custom made...it has a 6 rib section in the rear and cogs up front...

The configuration I had ONLY ran an Alternator off of the 6 rib...This was for manual steering and electric water pump...

However If you were to run a regular water pump and want to add AC and add power steering and all in the car you would have to modify the bracket for the PS pump...and remove the heim end tensioner....Because you would be using a serpentine tensioner on the pass sde and would not need 2 of them..


NO MOTOR plate....He he he... luckily...I just did a motor plate in mine for the turbo...UGH!!!...I was going to use Solid motor mounts BUT even those are not necessary...works just fine with stock parts..
It has a Spaced tunbing bracket that bolts to the heads...Then The actually bracket bolts to the bottom of your block and to this tubing bracket JUST LIKE THE BASE KIT S-TRIM does...Only this is MUCH thicker material...

 

here is a pic of the spacer bracket and you can see the cog pully with the 6 rib built in..

<img src=http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/bracket/bracket002.jpg>

here is a pic of the bracket installed with a blower sitting in it...IF you look at the bottom you see the 6 rib installed going to the alternator...the tensioner pully has a heim end on the back side to adjust tension...CANT be seen in this pic...

<img src=http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/bracket/bracket014.jpg>
NOTE how much thicker the main bracket is than a BASE KIT BRACKET!!
Here is a pic of the backside of the bracket where the Tensioner adjuster is that you could not see in the pic..

<img src=http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/bracket/mod/DCP_0417.JPG>

 

Wow that is very impressive. Thanks for the pictures, it kinda gives me a better understanding. It seems like alot of work, but i'm sure the end result is well worth it..

What kind of water pump is that? From the looks of things, that seems to be the way to go.

 

I think in the picture its a CSI... I use and TRAX used a Meziere 55GPM model...Its got a bigger motor on it than that one but it moves the coolant along much better and is better suited for street as well as strip use than the 34 GPM csi unit...

As far as a lot of work...THATS relative...I mean if you ran the minimum ascesories like in the pictures ITS NOT A LOT OF WORK...Its easy...

The only WORK would be if you chose to get the bracket modified to work more like a base kit one...Then you have to fins someone to cut it etc...and figure up new belt routings...

To switch to a Manual steering box is very EASY and fast...to switch to an electric waterpump is pretty fast...depending on how fast you can wire... and bolting this brackett setup in is EASY..... To be honest Id say in a weekend of not working very hard I could convert a car over and have the blower running...**It would take the same amount of time to do this as it would to do the base trim...the only additional thing would be switching the steering over which is 1-2-3 ...The rest of the things that you would remove and add NEW you still have to remove to install the base kit anyway...well except the waterpump...

 

Thanks for all the help, you have been really helpful. On another topic this motor i'm building, I would like to build a 406 with this T-trim, i'm kinda on the fence about what size head to go with. a 200cc or 220cc. I also want a solid roller cam and I'm using a stealth ram intake. With all the stuff mentioned above, it seems to be this would be a combination for high RPM power, and no low speed torque, which is what I need ( alot of low end torque).

What's your opinion?

Thanks.

 

220 CC head with a stealth ram...????? 220 CC head = 1206 manifold gasket...which I believe is beyond a Stealt ram...Unless you have it Welded and severely ported...

The bottom end would be fine with a 406 and a BLOWER...Blower goives you instant boost...unlike a turbo which has lag...SO a 406 plus a blower would give you plenty of low end grunt...UNLESS you CAM the hell out of it and run a 5600 Stall converter... Hard to say exactly what you are going to see until you match up parts...

For a stealth ram Id be running a 200CC head over a 220...

Im running a 221 CC head with a PRO RAM thats ported to the MAXIMUM without bursting the casting and having to weld...

Plus UNLESS you are buying a special 400 block I would not go with a 406/power adder...Id stay with a 350 or 383 if you must....400 chevy stock blocks have cooling issues without a power adder and the center cylinders tend to run HOT making tuning really fun...

 

Thanks for the info. Wow that puts me between a rock and a hard place. My last motor was a fully forged 383 made for a wet direct port system, and I had some proablems with it. So I sold everything but the crank and rods, I also picked up a 73 2bolt truck block, and I am in the process of having it machined for splayed main caps. I was really leaning towards the protopline 220's but I don't want to start hacking on them, if I dont have too.

Back to the drawing board.

Thanks.

 

The heads are fine...Its just the intake that would need worked...Ive not held a 1206 up to a Pro ram...but Ive seen the pro ram base and it did not appear tall enough for a 1206 gasket... Might want to call and ask....

 

I could have sworn on a stack of bibles that this topic has come up, and people have said they fit. But maybe I'm going crazy.

I'll look into to it further.

 

Yeah Im just going on eyeballs....which are not 20/20...LOL...If it will fit a 1206 then it will be close...

 

if that is the case, is there going to be a huge drop off in power if I go to the 200cc head?

 

Nothing MORE BOOST wont cure...He he he....200 CC will be fine...if thats the route you have to take...

Guido ran 195CC heads on his turbo 406...and he was not lacking in the power department..

 

Small port heads, just mean high velocity.

 

I am following suit