I was wondering how hard it would be to change gears on my car and whats involved. I want a higher ratio then what Ive got now. Is it a long task?

nate

 

Ive decided when I get 500.00 saved to install 3.73 posi into my cutlass.

Nate

 

first of all what is your new cutty's powerplant?

the following is a post of reproduced here for your benefit:

I used to have to work on customers cars and set up a gear based solely on patterning. I always had a perfect pattern but I always got mixed results. This is not acceptable when dealing with customers. Then I read a article in drag racing usa (an old magazine that is no more) put out by a group of gear manufacturers showing a group of odd ball patterns that didnt look anywhere near what would be considered acceptable by the instructions and books I had read previously. At the end of the article the information I gleaned was that if you used 3 tools to check your rearend for proper setup you would never have problems. You wouldnt even need to check the pattern. the pinion depth is etched on to the pinion head and the amount of backlash for new/used gears is shown in a manual for any kind of car. The pinion bearing drag or "preload" for new/used gears is also shown there.

These 3 tools were:

PINION DEPTH GAUGE for setting pinion depth. I also recommend buying a spare pinion bearing and using a brake hone to open it up until it slides on off easy for quickly checking/changing the pinion shims until you get it right so that you dont ruin your bearings on a press working them over and over.

Dial type inch pound torque wrench for checking to see if the crush sleeve is far enough or if you use a solid spacer to see if you have the right amount of shim in it. this is for checking the "drag" of the bearings.

extra dial indicator

and stand

I like to have a separate gauge and stand for checking backlash because the one included with the pinion depth gauge is nice and I like to use it as little as possible. It also comes in handy for checking crank endplay and cam button shimming.

For the record, by the time I set up two cars, half of the labor for the second job I did with these tools paid for them. I also have never had a set of ruined, wasted, or whining gears since. I have done GM 7.5"/7.62" 8.2" 8.5" 10 bolts, truck and car 12 bolts, Ford 7.5" 8" 8.8" 9", Dana 44, 60 rear ends with these tools.

The one thing not listed here you will likely need, especially if you are doing a crush sleeve equiped rear, is either a powerful 1/2" impact wrench, or a special longbar tool for holding the pinion yoke and a huge breaker bar (niether of which fits well under a car on jackstands.)

Note: it is easy to get carried away with the impact wrench, make sure you use it only to get the crush started once you get over the initial crush "hump" you have to be very careful after that point.

 

its a 307 with 7a heads.(very restrictive). But I think 373 gears will make a difference. and I am gonna swap a 350 into it.

nate

 

Funny. We gave up our regals/gutless's for f-bodys. Interesting to see someone going backwards.

-- Joe

 

I like the 350 (with big block heads and the port matched edelbrock small block manifold to make them fit) swap.