Here is the dyno run of the single turbo 1987 GTA; "The Sleeper"
You all know why we use to call it the sleeper when you see it.
It takes a little time to download, but I think it's worth it. Aprox duration: 2.55 minutes.
Enjoy it!

http://www.bbsdesigns.net/BBSDesignsVideos

 

what did it make?

I suggest you also list the engine and mods for those joining in late.

 

Hi B4Ctom1,

Block:
Stock 350ci/5.7 liter bored to .030 over (355ci/5.8 liter), two bolt L98, stock main caps and bolts, stock crank, stock rods with TRW forged 8.24-1 CR pistons, stock roller cam with factory timing chain, stock ported heads with Manley stock size valves and stock head bolts, edelbrock double valve springs, 1.6 rockers and stock size hardened pushrods, block all sealed with Fel-Pro gaskets.

Adds on:
Power pulleys(crank & alternator), 58mm Holley throttle body, ported Holley Stealth Ram induction, Ford Motorsports #24 injectors, Twin fuel pumps(stock and in-line), Mallory 1:1 fuel regulator, Fuel foggers(located at inlet pipe), Accel coil and distributor cap, MSD 6AL with 7000 rpm limiter pill, huge front mount intercooler(custom built from a Mack Truck intercooler core)(that's the reason why that car used to have those rare custom made grills in the front bumper, now inherited by the 89' GTA), V belt type BBSDesigns single turbo system.

Drive train:
T56 6 speed tranny, RAM power clutch, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears.

Exhaust:
Full flow mandrel bent 3" dia exhaust with stainless steel custom made 3 1/2" dia muffler(a real piece of work, I will going to sell it as soon I get the twin turbo going in the 89' GTA that I am now building), Tial wastegate valve venting to atmosphere.

Computers/Chips/Programing:
Stock computer, stock chip, stock programing.

Horsepower after several fuel fogger jet changes and boost increasing: 573 rwhp

All the trick of the car was on the timing and extra fuel with the foggers, o, and lots of boost 15+

WARNING: Dont try this at home. What we did that night was an overkill boost with a practically stock block. It is best to have a better bottom end when putting high amounts of boost. We where prepared that night to return the car in a flat bed tow truck, surprisingly it brought us back home!

 

Hey BBS, I've been really thinking about what trans to put in my car. My 700 R4 is shot and I'm am not sure what to do. I have heard that putting a T-56 out of a LT1 4th gen f-body is not too hard. Since you have one in your car, can you tell me if it was hard or not, and if it is worth the time and effort. I just want a trans that will handle some power and be fun to drive. If you want, list the major parts needed to get it to work. Thanks

 

I was just listening to the video and it really sound awfull. For a best sound try setting the equalizer to look like this(see bad drawing below), it gets to listen better with this setup, and the turbo sound great when it starts making boost

 

Hi TurboedTPI,

First; get the T56. I dont remeber which is the best year, but if my memory dosent fail, dont get a 93'. This tranny has the best gear ratio, but it dosent withstand as much torque as newer versions. The best options are 94-97 trannys. The 98 and newer use a different clutch and sleeve bearing and pressure plate. I dont know if they will work with our combination, since the 98 and up use hydraulic type bearing release. Try to get the tranny with fork, stick shift and everything. You will need clutch with pressure plate and bearing, flywheel of 93 to 97 F-body, thrust bearing(the bearing that goes inside the crankshaft), 82-97 clutch/brake pedal assembly(even from 5 speed V6 will work of up to year 92. The clutch slave, pump and reservoir can be used from any F-body from 82-97, dosent matter the year, mine is from 95up V6 trans am. Steel plate that covers the tranny's bell housing, your stock drive shaft will work. Get the crossmember from askulte(the moderator). Dont try building your own, he sells them at a very reasonable price and fits perfectly. You will also need a speed calibration computer to work with the new speed sensor, It think is called "SGI-5", but I will check in my car. Andris also has information on where to get that computer and it works fine(put a noise filter in the power cable to avoid a jumping speedo vane) I will get all the part numbers and e-mail them for you.

 

What type of dyno and what was the correction factor used to get those numbers?

 

I really dont know that. Next time I go to the dyno I will ask. All I know is what the guy operating the dyno told me; "go thru the first two gears slowly and then start pushing it on third gear, then when you hit fourth gear punch the pedal all the way."
The dyno was set to read the hp on fourth gear.

 

I can tell from the video it is a dynojet, if he shows us an unadulterated copy of the dyno sheet we may be able to tell.

 

If it was a Dynojet please do post the file, as I would like to see where the power comes on with the turbo.

If you dont have the file just ask the shop to email it to you, they are very small and it is very common for the shop to give them to you.

 

Thanks BBS for the help and info on the 6-speed setup. I will be looking for a trans soon. And what center consol do you have? I found a 1989 formula 305 tpi with a 5 speed in a junk yard near my house. Every thing seems to be in it. Should i get the clutch/brake pedals out of it? What else could i use out of it?

 

wow after seein that im goin to start saving really fast for a full turbo kit before you stop selling them.

 

Yes is a Dynojet. I found one of the sheets the guy gave me that night, but it dosent says anything about a correctional factor. It only has the SAE horsepower on the vertical axis, Speed on the horizontal axis and on the top right corner the speed at which the top horsepower was achieved.

For what is the correctional factor used?


TurboedTPI, get the brake and clutch pedal assembly, the complete stuff, un-bolt it right from the cars sheet metal(is not going to be easy, loosen the pedals first). Get the cruise control valve, the security clutch switch, the clutch pump with slave and reservoir(is a one piece unit, DO NOT TRY TO TEAR APART). That's about everything you will need from that car. Everything else (starter, drive shaft, etc.. ) can be re-used from your car. Uh almost forget, get the shiftplate. It will fit a little more to the front, but I believe it will work. You can always modify your automatic shift plate like I did, and it looks great. I will send you a picture on how to modify your existing auto plate.

 

SAE is the correction then, and it is the best (correct) one.

 

SAE is the/a correction factor, and it was used when putting up your power numbers, a good thing.

However I am more interested to see where and how the power came on.

Were you able to get the file from the dyno shop?

 

hi
ive notice that there is no air filter on that turbo.do u drive around like that, or did u just have it off for dyno session??

 

Hey Gardy who gave you authorization to show me on the net?. I just want to say a couple of things of this video because I was there and I'm the responsable of the hi quality video taping during the dynorun.

 

Sounds great BBS. Hope you don't stop selling these kits anytime soon.

 

echo

 

I used the air filter at all times except for the dyno run. I really like the look without the filter, but you never know when the turbo is going to suck something unwanted.

 

Hi TurboedTPI,

I included all the part numbers that I needed to complete the T56 swap in my 3rd gen in the; "Transmissions and Drivetrain" section in the tech boards. It is under the; "T56 swap" thread. I put it all there so that it would be in the propper section. If you have anything else let me know.
Edgardo