Rebuilding my 5.7 strong enough to handle boost and a few more RPMs. I've been warned not to use 6.0 rods (which I originally intended to use) if I was going to boost on it.
For those who have rebuilt have you gone with 5.7 otr 6.0? Anyone bump into any problesm with the higher wristpin location when using 6.0 rods with their power adder?

My thought is intercooled boost at a moderate level with all forged internals will be able to handle things fine with a 6.0 rod. I think if I keep an eye on EGT's while tuning the wristpics should be fine.

thoughts?

 

the only problem I ever found was that the top ring land was a little higher up, and there are no pistons made in the CR I was looking for because there wasn't enough room to dish them with the higher wrist pin.

 

I used a 5.850 rod. Basicly get a piston designed for a stroker crank (3.77 stroke) with a 5.7 rod. You can get away with the slightly longer rod, but not so long that you don't have enoughy meat on the piston.

-- Joe

 

I'm running 6" rods on a 3.750" stroke for the Z28tt, without any problems. The pistons are custom JE's w/ a 30cc dish, and the longer rod does put the wrist pin in the oil ring groove. Depending on who makes the piston, and the forging, you'll be able to get away with different compression heights on the piston. I had the pistons coated by Swain-Tech for the ceramic barrier on the top, moly on the sides, and had the wrist pins DLC coated by Anatech. Plenty of folks are running off the shelf parts w/ lots of boost and no coatings, so I wouldn't worry about it, and just start your tune rich, and gradually lean it out.

 

my heads are 74 cc. I have to talk to some piston manufacturers to see what they can do for me and I have to calculate my dish, trying for 9:1. What compression are you running on the TT motor?

 

hey Andris, what heads did you end up running on that thing? You're running a single plane, any pics? I've been playing with converting a vic jr to FI and am comming to the conclusion that I'm going to have to play some games to have it both fit under the stock hood and clear the water neck (unless someone makes a water neck that is right aroud 2" or shorter)

 

Mark, you check out my site?

www.singleplane-efi.com

Might find some ideas .

-- Joe

 

TwelvZ & MMP - here ya go (copied from the Z28tt log at www.skulte.com/logbook.html)

The custom JE pistons were ordered from Thunder Racing and arrived one week later. The specs given were 28cc dish, 1.151 compression height, inverse dome to match the AFR 210 heads, double pin oilers, double spiro-locks, gas accumulator groove and machined for a 4.1215 finish honed block (for 8.25:1 static compression). They sent the pistons with a .0045 clearance which seems tight, but thats what the JE engineers designed the piston for. They were weighed at 493.7g to 495.6g. I'll remove a little material from the heavier pistons so they all match (overly **** here!). We decided on the JE 51 Series tool steel wrist pins - 2.950 length x .180 wall. They measured at 0.9271 to 0.9273" in diameter at various points. The pins are extremely heavy, but will minimize any bending from the large cylinder pressures. Since I don't plan on turning high rpms w/ the hydraulic roller cam, this was a good compromise. This pistons are being sent to Swain Tech Coatings for their Thermal Barrrier Coating on the piston face and Poly Moly friction reducing coating on the skirts. The wrist pins are being sent to Anatech for the diamond like carbon (DLC) Casidiam coating. The Nascar Winston Cup folks swear by the Casidiam coating, on preventing wrist pin bore wear, and it's inexpensive insurance to keep the rotating assembly lasting.

I've sold the Accel Super Ram intake, and it's being replaced with the Accel Pro-Ram single plane EFI intake manifold and Force Fuel Injection 1000 cfm throttlebody bought used.

___

Anyways - the regular third-gen TPI thermostat neck didn't fit properly, so I used one with an o-ring that swivels around. I think it's got about a 30 degree rise to it. Rad hose is just a 45 elbow at the engine and radiator, and a length of pipe in between. Less is more.

 

Yea, Joe, I’ve checked that out. To be honest it actually raised more questions then it answered. One thing that stood out about your setup is where did you get the tube that you used for the injector bungs?

Otherwise, there are only 1 or 2 pics even showing thermostat housings and the ones that do for the most part used something that would not work for what I’m doing. One of them (the one with the black steel box plenum) does have a pic of what looks like a very short housing in one of the shots, but I don’t recognize what it is.



Any pics of the setup?

How tall is the thing? Again, any pics up anywhere? Do you have any impression of how much low end you lost going from the SR to the single plane?

 

Aluminum pipe with 1/2" ID. Good hardware stores will have it. Honed it out just a hair and the injectors are firm, don't leak. Just use grease when inserting them.


Why do you need a short housing?

Thats MR_DUDE's setup. You can prolly PM him.

-- Joe

 

I just checked my computer here at work, and no engine bay pics. I've got a ton at home, though, which I can put up on Sunday.

Comparing the super ram to the single plane isn't apples to oranges in my case. I also went from a L98 longblock to the Dart Little M 399 cid, w/ AFR 210's, much larger cam, and 8.2 compression, so down low off boost, it feels slower. The dyno run of the new setup is at http://www.carolinaautomasters.com/d...phs/Andris.JPG
with the big drop at about 3800 rpms where the spark blew out.

 

huh… you hit on something here… I take it that the ½” ID tube didn’t fit but you had to open it up some? What did you hone it out with? I know that the spacer rings and pintle caps are wider then a ½” and that’s why I was wondering. The spec is for a 17/32” or a 13.5mm hole, neither of which are common sizes for drill bits. I know that MSD used to sell injector bungs and a drill bit to drill perfect injector pockets but I seem to remember both being insanely expensive for what they were.



Well, I’m planning on converting a Victor Jr to FI and I was hoping to wedge it under a stock firebird hood (a little shorter then a camaro hood, but close). The Vic Jr’s biggest issue here is that the coolant passage across the front of it is cast rather high off of the manifold flange (this is off the top of my head, but I seem to remember measuring 3.5”). Measuring off of the TPI intake that is in there now, adding up the height of the coolant passages on the front of the Vic Jr and the height of the TPI TB (I’m probably going to make my own little elbow to adapt the 4bbl to the TB), and a ¼” for hood clearance, if I can get a thermostat housing in the 2” tall range I should be able to wedge everything in there with plenty of room for anything that I want. If I have to use a taller housing that means some combination of milling down parts that I really don’t want to touch, mounting the TB further back then I want to, deforming the charge tubing to clear it, cutting the ribs in the hood…

 

I’d really appreciate that.

Isn’t or is apples/oranges?

Do you care to share some cam specs (can email them to me privately)? I’m assuming that that is MPH and not rpm, any idea what the rpm points are?

A lot of the reason for asking you these questions is that I’m wondering how that style single plane compares to something that I’ve dealt with regularly before, like an LT1, especially power band wise.

 

Im running 6" rods but I'm only running a 3.25" stroke in my 400 block

 

MMP - You could just weld on a -20 alum. bung onto the front crossover, and run a remote thermostat housing. Problem solved. If it's a strictly road race car, just ditch the t-stat completely. Cam specs are 236/230 on a 113, I believe, using Comp Extreme lobes. The little 3" SLP catback really chokes off the exhaust flow, and turbos. I'm thinking upgrading to the 3" dump tubes w/ open dual exhaust should fix that