I finally got my twin turbo running yesterday. I broke in the new cam and took it out for a mild ride. The coolant temp is about 20 degrees Faren. higher than without the turbos. I guess I will have to look into a different fan setup.
I put a new Flex-o-lite 2500 cfm in it thinking it would keep it cool, but it runs at 210 at idle. It ran at 190 degrees without the turbos. I have both of the T3 tapped into the coolant lines.
Anyone have any results of how much better a Miloden or Edelbrock water pump dropped temps? Or a "high volume" thermostat. Any help is appreciated. 210 degrees is too hot for this setup. Anyone else running water cooled turbos with a good coolant setup?

Thanks,
J

 

Well my edel pump made enough pressure to make a slightly loose heater hose connection start leaking after a year with a stock pump and no leaks. And I've seen it suck the upper hose down noticeably on a neutral rev. Might look at a Stewart iron pump if you want to save some money.

 

might check into the radiator capacity. I noticed that Summit sells some sweet universal aluminum radiators for chevy/ford, etc, for like $170 bucks. When the malibu project starts, that is my plan. even the stock pumps are usually enough volume, problem is you can't get the heat out of the rad. You also are suffering a bit from fully cast iron assembly (i'll be in the same boat), since it retains so much heat. I've got a 73 camaro, and installed an aluminum rad for the big block, and never had any issues, and those pigs (big blocks) generate some heat!

i've been installing electric fans in alot of things these days, and usually go with a dual setup, even though it usually involves some slight mods to get both fans to fit(use two smaller singles). A big single works ok, but the smaller fans can pull air from more area of the rad. (kind of like the old single/dual exhaust arguments)

you also might consider some exhaust wrap on some of the pipes, or even some ceramic coatings, to help underhood temps. My plan is tuboX on the manifolds/turbos, and stainless downpipes to keep heat in.

if you can't tell, i'm doing something similar, so this is very interesting to me. keep up the good work and post your results/findings/performance!

 

I read that the Stewart Warner pumps are good. The Griffin radiators look nice also. After I had the car running I only drove it on roads where I could keep a decent speed so that it would keep the airflow through the radiator high enough to keep the cool temp. at 190 - 200 degrees.

I was making up a list of parts to get to cool the thing the other night and something occured to me. When I check the fan airflow with my hand upon first start up it was pretty weak. At first I just thought it was because the battery was a little low. Now I was thinking that it was wired backwards. So I threw a jumper on the ALDL conn. and turned the key on. The fan was trying to push air when it should be pulling air. I grabbed the Flexalite directions to double check the wiring. There instructions are wrong.......I read them 10 times (at different times) to verify that they are wrong. Iwas pissed at Flexalite, but more at myself for not knowing better to check things even when they are new out of the box.

Anyway, the car runs cool now but outside temps are 50-60 degrees. I am going to add another 10" fan 800cfm this winter and hopefully put a hack in the $58 code to turn on the extra fan on if the temp. reaches a certain value. The car runs at 185 degrees idling and about 175 degrees while cruising. The bin has a 185 cool fan turn on temp. It currently just has a 16" 2500cfm fan in it. With the 10" fan I will have a total of about 2500+800 = 3300cfm which should be OK for summer 100+ temps.

In the other non-boost second gen. I have two 14" 1800cfm fans. They are not S-blade but do a great job at cooling it in the summer. In the boosted car I gave the 16" S-blade a try. I can't believe how much quietier they are than the straight blades.

Thanks,
J