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combating detonations ....opinions needed

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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 05:40 PM
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D's89IROCZ's Avatar
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
combating detonations ....opinions needed

Well , in my new turbo setup I am sure I will be very limited in boost because of detonation . So I was wondering .....

If you take a cast iron head and ceramic coat the chambers and ports . Will it still have the potential reduce the possibility detonation , the same as am aluminum head prepped in the same way ?


Everything IS getting coated in the next block ( pistons, heads, intake base , and any other relivant surrfaces . Also is all this a good/bad idea ? I just want the greatest potential I can get out of'r

Thanx all , opinions wanted .
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 09:41 AM
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
19 views and no reply's ? awwwww come on pleeeeeassse
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 02:59 PM
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From: Bloomingdale,IL
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305 Tbi (L03)
Transmission: 700r4
Coating the heads will help keep the head cooler but combustion chamber temps wont be effected that much. The main factors are still going to be compression ratio, boost, and intake temperature. Your probably better off going with a highly effiecient air to water intercooler. And an alcohol or water injection system.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 11:19 PM
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From: Fairview Heights Illinois
Car: 1986 Irocz
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Axle/Gears: 3.25:1
Polish the ports and chambers instead.
Don't run a tstat.
Run a cold race type plug,
and yes explore alcohol injection.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 03:34 PM
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
I plan on ....later getting an intercooler on it . I was just figureing this as a sollution .... because my current C/R is 9.74:1 . Which I know is a bad idea to start with . BUT regardless. I CAN in a driveway change the heads . SO I was gongi to get them prepped in that fashion ....just to do what I can short of yanking the block and doing what I just did last summer ( before I even knew I was getting a turbo ) .

At the moment I am sure I wont be getting anywhere near 6 psi ....or boom ! But if I can do the little things that can be done in a driveway like heads ..... add intercooler . I can try runnnig it like this untill I am better suited to get my real short block with better stuff suited for 20 psi of boost .... or around there .

My only goals are
- 11's on streets
10's on slicks
emmissions compliant ( all smogg stuff )
and it's gotta be able to handle a 90+ degree trafic jam ..without overheating .


Thanx for the input thus far ... but am still curious IF I coat the heads ( iron ) will it still have thr same ability to combat detonation ...as an aluminm head treated the same way . Because I don't mind getting a set of 113's and donigthem up either vs the 083's .
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 06:36 PM
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From: Fairview Heights Illinois
Car: 1986 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.25:1
polished aluminum stays cooler.
coated chambers would carbon up more quickly.
Carbon is a good insulator, but it won't prevent detonation.
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 03:56 PM
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D's89IROCZ's Avatar
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
Originally posted by 305sbc
polished aluminum stays cooler.
coated chambers would carbon up more quickly.
Carbon is a good insulator, but it won't prevent detonation.
Thanx for the heads up on that ( no pun intended )


SO I am gathering the best setup would be a polished aluminum head ....with NO coatings . Still figure I should get the pistons done ? Or is that a bad idea too .
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 09:08 PM
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From: Fairview Heights Illinois
Car: 1986 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.25:1
That is my opinion.
All coatings aren't the same and I cannot tell you for sure which ones work. I can say that polishing always works.
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 11:10 PM
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
One thing that will help quite a bit if you pull the block is spraying the undersides of the pistons with oil. Cools them down a lot and helps prevent detonation.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 12:15 AM
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From: garage
Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
Originally posted by D's89IROCZ
IMy only goals are
- 11's on streets
10's on slicks
emmissions compliant ( all smogg stuff )
and it's gotta be able to handle a 90+ degree trafic jam ..without overheating .
I am wondering how you are going to fit a decent sized T4 or two T3's in there with all of the smog stuff. The T4 would be a lot easier to do.
Yeah, you can meet your goals. It will probably take some thinking to make the exhaust manifolds.

Last edited by junkcltr; Nov 23, 2005 at 12:17 AM.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 03:48 PM
  #11  
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
I am sending back my headers to BBS and they are switching wastegate locations ( SO I can keep the smogg pump) and I just need a way to find out where to tell them to weld the AIR bungs ( due to the fact I have been disabled for 2 years now ....gets hard to look under the hood . BBS has been nice enough to try and fab up a set for me ....as the got a car there to work from . They just plain rock ! My alternative was to get ANYone to just hack and weld .

Phlaxus ....I read about them oil squirters aswell . In a book called CHevy highperformance . I seen alot of block prep I am interested in that book.

As far as the T-4 ( T-62) .... it looks nice in there engine bay pics ....also on the engne stand pics . My only regret is that I would of had to convert to a V belt setup to keep the A/C ..... by by A/C

I appreciate all this guys
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Old Nov 24, 2005 | 10:04 AM
  #12  
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From: Southern Indiana
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 383 SuperRam AFR 195s
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt
Don't run a tstat
This is not a good idea!!! Without adequate block pressure an engine will develop hot spots (near the exhaust valve usually) that can make the engine MUCH more prone to detonation problems.

Some good info here from some people that know how to cool engines that have to perform for longer than a 1/4 mile.

Stewart components

The more power an engine makes the more important PROPER cooling becomes. Good luck with your build!
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Old Nov 24, 2005 | 03:41 PM
  #13  
D's89IROCZ's Avatar
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
Thanx for the link . I have also been thinking of stuff like oil coolers .... but got to research the oil I want ... see where it likes to be at ....and try to maintain that temp.
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