okay i will be building up a LT1 over the next year and try to make 500 to 550 whp on a daily driver.....

Also will diamond pistons and Eagle H-beams be suffcient for this bottom end?

I have seen LT1 turbos run 12psi on just a Vortech FMU and MSD inline fuel pump- but they run lean up top...... How can i cure this?
LINK HERE FOR FOR LEANING OUT 12 PSI LT1


What modifications to the fuel system need to be made so i can run hopefully an 11.5:1 or 11.8:1 A/F ratio on 12+ PSI? Injectors fuel rails? (does anyone make fuel system components for the LT1?)

 

You can get two -8 male AN adapters and have them
welded onto the end of your fuel rails as seen here.
Lt1fuel rail mod They made this seem way more "special" than it needs to be. And I mangaged to match their price on the fuel line kit.
Then get the Aeromotive 13301? universal efi regulator.
It's the 4 port efi regulator.
You can run -8 line from the rails to the regulator or get
8-6 reducers and use -6 line through out.

Check out Aeromotives' site for the regulator and pump options.

I plan on offering this mod as an option on my intakes in the future.
I just need to go get a quote on having the fittings TIG'd on.

 

So you include high flow fuel rails and the intake right? Can i use any size injectors i want?
this will provide enough fuel for 15psi on an LT1?

 

You would need to ask him a question like "will they flow enough fuel for AFR of 10.x:1 and 1000cfm of air?"

Boost says nothing about how much fuel you might need. Besides, why do you think you need "hi flow" fuel rails? Because the mustang guys have problems with their rails?
Did you read the article that Z69 posted? They go through all of the work essentially for no reason. It flows the same amount of fuel as an original LT1 intake. It now has the option to flow more fuel (much like you are after) with more hoses / different configurations.
For what it is worth, I am running an LT1 intake 350 with 255 lph pump, 3/8" fuel line, stock fuel regulator, 7-8psi boost, and the WB-O2 reads 10.0:1. That is, as low as it can read.

How much HP do you plan on making with the LT1 intake & engine combo?

 

im using an LT1 block.... i hope to make 550whp

 

This is all based on posts I've seen and weeded out what I thought was BS.....then applied my training and experience on how water flow works. (I've have lots)

At some HP point the stock rail setup will make #7 run lean.
At WOT and high rpm it will get the most air.
And since it is the last cylinder to get fuel from the rail, it will be running the lowest pressure/flow.
Then there's the whole 5 - 7 firing order thing....
What HP this is I have no idea. Look around for the guy making the most on stock rails.

If you dig around a little, you'll see that the hi flow rail kits are 9/16 or so. The stock LT1 rails are this size already.
The main restrictions in the system are the crossover line and the size of the inlet. So if you go to dual feeds, the 1 & 2 cyl will now be the lowest pressure. But they also get the least air at WOT on an LT1. So hopefully it's a wash. This assumes your making enough power to exceed the rails flow rate and start getting some pressure drop back to front. There isn't a lot of room on the front of the rails for a clean install of fittings to allow a flow through setup as the aftermarket rails use. The main advantage of this is it will purge air from the system faster. And it will support more hp.
The -8 fittings are only about .438 ID in reality. And they fit real nice into the stock regulator port with minor mods you can do yourself. So then it's only a matter of getting them TIG'd on. And most won't need to worry about them being too small.

At some point the stock regulator will no longer flow enough fuel to return all that your pump is capable of suppling. So the pressure will go up at idle. I don't know of a -6 return port regulator that will fit the stock rail. Doesn't mean there isn't one out there. The universal efi reg from Aeromotive is one of the cheapest. Least till you add on the fittings for hooking it up. And it will work in most cases and is good to 1000 hp or so.
You could run dual 255L walbros as some have done and I plan on for my T70 hp experiment. And that would allow the stock style regulator to work if you staged the second to come on a 5psi or so with a hobbs switch. (they make adjustable ones) But your still single feed.....

I'll have to look into how much the Aeromotive LT1 regulator can support. But the stock 5/16 return line can end up being a restriction too when running a big pump.

Also 15 psi boost on stock heads is completely different to 15 psi on a set of 215/227 heads. And you have to size your injectors accordingly. I'm looking for 750fwhp and chose 60lb/hr injectors. Currently the biggest that will work with a stock 3rd gen ecm injector driver. And they may be borderline to small. Getting the correct cam for you hp and rpm range will help in this regard.

For me, I'd rather eliminate the fuel system as a potential bottle neck on power. So an extra $50-$100 dollars at the start is worth it to me. It really depends on how much rpm and power you plan. If your running a batch fire injection scheme, then all the injectors fire at the same time.
This is one reason the sizing becomes an issue. The rail itself can become a reservoir for the fuel to the injector.
So the restriction through the crossover and it's two 90 degree turns can become an issue at some point.
Going to dual feed turns the crossover into an equalizing line instead. Very little flow should go through it then.

Edit: I forgot the tards left the flow in series on the link I posted above. But they got all that stuff for free so what do you expect.

 

That link gave me a good chuckle. What is that outfit, a bunch of high school kids playing in their daddy's garage? Don't they have any pride in their work? At least make it look good in the pictures and write-ups

 

I'm stumped... yea, they do look like a bunch of kids in a garage, but to a large extent their work is better then a lot of the "professional" stuff out there.

the only 2 gripes that I could really come up with are that their welds could be prettier (and still, they're better looking then some of what I've seen advertised as professional TIG welds on here) and that they route just about everything under the crossmembers, which makes it easier (possilbe even) on the 4th gens...

 

I would guess that they are out of high school. A high school student would probably know how to spell the word useful. Under their "Links" page, they spelled it as "Usefull". A true give away that they are not in high school.
The stuff they make didn't look bad in the two pictures I looked at. One had a bad IC design that looks like it would give a fair amount of circular flow in the IC. The V8 kits look like they are "one of" things.

I couldn't figure out where the oil drain goes on the LS1 single setup. It looks like it comes out of the turbo and then climbs up over the inner fender structure and taps into the radiator. It has a fresh new white zip-tie on it. It must be the coolant over flow line and not the drain. Anyway, I couldn't find the drain line. They put a pusher coolant fan on it which really sucks.

Worst of all........they don't have a link to thirdgen.org on the "Links" page.

 

yea, but from what I can tell they all use intercoolers sourced from someplace else (IE, the design wasn't theirs). For that matter it looks like a lot of those setups started with "here, these are the parts that I have, can you make them work together" which can be harder then comming up with a setup and buying parts to match.