I was reading and saw pictures somewhere on here that AFR 195s would leak water in all four corners on a motown block.
Is the dart block the same way

 

You'd have to find out if the Dart block has the larger water jackets like the Motown, but I believe it does, meaning you'd be screwed w/ it too. If you have/find the older AFR castings you'd be ok. The newer ones have scallops in the sides that step in past the water jacket holes in the block. - Why do you need an aftermarket block if you're building a motor that only need 195 heads? never mind, the aftermarket blocks are always nice to have...especially w/ boost.

 

At what point do you need an aftermarket block? I am planning on running my stock block and 195's with a procharger. Its been converted to a splayed 4 bolt, and fully studded. I wasnt really worried about it till reading a few threads here and there. Never really heard about many blocks breaking.

 

at the point you have money to burn, then you need an aftermarket block. Unless you're running something really extreme, or are going to bore-out to all end, you don't need one. Hell, my dad's blown 445(427 BBC +.100) is running low 5's in the 1/8 @ 145-150, and it's a GM 2-bolt block. GM steel crank. His caps have been machined flat on the, and he has a piece of 1/2 tool steal bolted on top though. the motor turns around 10k, and the 871 is 30% overdriven...

 

I cant recall exactly what ATI kit am going with, but around 825hp to the tires. Not too extreme I guess.

 

sounds like a sweet combo! - I have seen a BBC tall-deck with 3 cylinder walls cracked. 588ci, 1471 he-helix turning 9k. It split the walls, but bored to max and that kind of boost, crap happens. It didn't hurt anything else, just started loosing power. It was in a drag car, dry block, so no coolant, making the power loss the only thing noticable. Even w/ coolant, unless you just keep pounding it after it breaks, you shouldn't hurt anything else. I woudn't think you could possibly do anything else. IF you break it, which is highly doubtful...

 

TTT as im interested in seeing what the limitations of the stock 350 2 bolt block is.

 

I cracked my 400 block within 6 months....... then I cracked anotherone within a year.... I went with a dart block and have not looked back since. They have better oiling system, better cooling, and are much stronger... if you look at the price of a dart block, then look at the price of getting a stock block, machining for billet caps, having it filled, decked, line bored, etc I bet you will see its worht it to get the dart...

 

I dont know how much the dart block goes today,but its much cheaper to machine/modify stock block. Was your 400 on NOS or blown?

 

Dart little M blocks are going for about $2300.

While cleaning up a factory block can work, it would be good to invest in an aftermarket block if you plan on really pushing it. Thicker walls, stronger mains- good insurance if you ask me.

PM Andris - a mod in this foum- he can tell you about his experiences with the Dart little M block in his TT project.

 

Trust me its not much cheaper. I had almost 1800.00 in my block, machine work, filling and billet caps. I paid 1850.00 for my dart block before the price of metal went up so much.

My motor was a nitrous motor


400 Block virgin $200.00
hot tank magnaflux $65.00
Competition Hone (with plate) $350.00
Block True/Square Deck (up to .020) $150.00
Install 5 Caps $500.00
Align Hone $125.00
block filler $65.00
fill block $50.00
aftermarlet caps $ 220.00

it ads up quick........ then you have to realize you are not getting priority main oiling with a stock block, its a weaker block, the dart block has better cooling, etc.....

 

My case I can get real good deal on the maching. But the added assurance would be nice. The car needs to get going sooner than later, but i'lll see.

 

Don't forget to include a hone for the Dart block too - You receive the block with the bores are rough-honed on the very small side. The lifter bores need to be sized as well, since they are also at the very tight end. I probably spent a good 5 hours deburring the block, and then had to get it washed to flush out the casting sand. A friend had run his LittleM for a 2 hour break-in on the street, and pulled the main caps to check the bearings, and found a grain of sand had worked its way into the bearing surface. Nothing is ever a plug & play solution!

 

l ran one (0.030 over) making 300RWHP NA + 100HP N2O for 10 years before it finally developed a small crack in one cylinder.

Rather than sleeve a 2 bolt, I spent $600.00 on a new HD GM block which was more or less ready to use.