Anyone had experience with MasterPower turbo's?

As some know due to my laziness of not returning the oil to my pan and put it to the block off plate on the block, I seem to have blown an oil seal on my T61.

I was just going to have it rebuilt...yea yea a turbo with like 100 miles on it lol. But I got to looking around and I find that Masterpower T70's are ranging from $550-$600.

Well, I am building a 383 to handle serious power (serious as in 7-800hp) and truthfully the T61 would just flat out be too small (which is funny because everyone who sees it is like GODD*MN!!! thats a big turbo!!!!lol)...So I ve been thinking about getting a Masterpower T70 with a .96 A/R tubine housing. At least it would be closer to usable during breakin and descent HP on the 383 and at the same time be usable on the 305.

What are your thoughts and opinions?
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I have never used one, but a lot of people at Welcome to Turbo Mustangs.com run them. They talk a lot about the trade offs of using the different turbine A/Rs over there. Some post HP figures.

From what I read, 800 FWHP with the MP T70 is really pushing it and I don't remember anyone making that kind of HP with one. I think there was an LT1 in the high 600 FWHP range. That is from memory...don't quote me on that. The MP seems to be reliable and are reasonably priced.

Your best bet would be to ask Jose at Forced Inductions about the MP T70 with your setup. People seem to like him at Welcome to Turbo Mustangs.com and he has a forum to ask questions at his site. You could do a search there also. There was a few threads about GM engines with the MP turbo.

As for the oil seal problem, I run 1/4" steel line with brass fittings that have a .060" hole in them at the turbos on the twin setups. That was recommended by a reputable turbo shop. It seems to work well. Although, they could get plugged easily with a bad oil system.

 

I don't think your turbo 'blew' a seal. The turbos I have worked on use metal piston ring like seals that won't just blow out. They may wear away if the turbo bearings get worn, but they won't blow from oil backing up the return line. Consider checking the quality of your crankcase breather system and make sure the oil return line is of adequate size (1/2" ID minimum and as vertical as possible all the way). If the oil drain orfice behind the FP orfice is just too small, then move your fitting to the pan and see if the oil leak from the turbo clears up before you buy a new one.

FWIW, when I was working out the oil scavenge system on my RMT Z24, I had the T3 turbo burried in oil two times before I got it working right. Smoked out the exhuast, oil leaking out the compressor cover, etc. Never hurt the turbo at all. After 5 miles or so of driving (with a good scavenge pump), it was clean as a whistle.

Unless your T61 was from SSauto chrome, I would lay money on it that the turbo is still dandy.

 

I’m with everyone else here… I doubt that you “blew a seal” unless there was something wrong with the turbo, and I doubt even more that it had anything to do with running it to the blockoff plate which works fine for most applications, in some way s it could be superior to returning it to the pan.

 

Mark, I've often wondered if the rotation of the crankshaft could effect the draining of the oil when returned to the pan. Is this what you are refering to? Seems to me that the rotation of the crank could throw oil up into the oil drain if it is at the wrong spot. In one installation I did, I actaully welded in a shield inside the oil pan to keep this from happening. I wasn't sure if it was overkill or not.

 

You are the man!!!! I had my CC breathing hooked up on both sides to run to the suction of the turbo....welllll I swapped it to the drivers side only going to the suction of the turbo and a breather filter on the passenger side....oil out the tail pipe is gone! thanks for the advice.....the money that was going to go to a turbo is now going to intercooling my setup.....


I never planned on using a T70 for High HP numbers on the 383....that'll probly get at least a T76...the T70 would have been for the breakin period on the 383 and moderate on the 305.

 

Cool, I'm glad its fixed up, but I think your original vent system should have done the job. What size hose were you using from the valve covers to the compressor inlet?

 

3/8 i think.....

 

Yes/no/maybe?

Of course, if you line up your return with one of your crank throws the oil getting thrown off the crank can hit the return and cause that to not work as well as it should. Since most of us are not running heavily baffled pans, that return can be blocked off when oil sloshes around when you stop, turn, hit a bump…

All of this is avoided by using the pump block off, the only hassle there is that there is a bump in the casting in the middle of it, so if you don’t get it past that bump if you don’t get the block off plate sealed off perfectly you might end up with a little seepage around the plate.