I was wondering what the best piston to use for nitrous,like forged with dished or flat top,etc.?What about brand?

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91 Camaro Z/28 5.7
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SLP 1 5/8" headers
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B&M 2400 stall torque converter
renegaderacing.cz28.com

 

a good strong forged unit only, depends on how much you want to spray it, for about 75-150 a flattop will be fine and keep the compressions around 9:1 or 9.5:1 if its a bigger shot go dished.

 

i ran a set of speed pro forged pistons, and i had a 2 stage NOS FOGGER SYSTEM.... so they hold up pertty well...

 

we use alot of nitrous here, we are a nitrous express dealer. we believe that the proper amount of nitrous is one jet setting lower than it takes to fold the piston over the pin, which happens alot. once you learn how to not burn, blow, or detonate an engine on 750 horse of juice the next step is keeping it sealed in the engine and how much the parts can take. other than expensive made to order flat top nitrous pistons that have an extra thick top and special ring packaging, there is only one, TRW forged or as its known now federal mogul forged. these pistons are as tough as anvils and are very forgiving but heavy. stay with the flatop because domes and dishes seem to give the massive cylinder pressure strange leverages that allow it to FUBAR the top of the piston also avoid the "fully machined" versions denoted with a "M" following the "F" in the beggining of the part # or an "LW". also remember ring end gap is more important than the type or cost of the rings used. it must be bordering on excessive to keep the ends from butting and ripping off the top of the piston, also never use a ring that is full circle i.e. total seal. a gas build up between the top and bottom rings on blown or nitroused engines can rip the top of the piston off.

 

Thanks for the info

 

B4com1,

Could you please tell me why the pistons with part numbers beginning with an "LW" are bad? What rings would you recommend then?? Thanks

 

its not so much that they are bad it is that they are lighter, hence less anvil for your pounding. I have actually had great results with both just go for the L first and the LW second and dont forget to give the custom manufacturers a try too (sarcastically)for the paltry sum of a few hundred dollars more (twice the price, sometimes) they can build to order just for you, a thick topped piston with repositioned rings that will give you identical strength and wieght of the cheaper TRW's for your troubles and then tell you not to run more than 125 to 250 hp on it (depending on manufacturer) or they wont stand behind thier work.

 

rings is a pretty sticky subject (I.E. can O' worms) just remember to run excessive ring clearances if you plan on running excessive nitrous or even if you dont plan on it, it could save your motor.