ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

To any that can help;

THE SETUP- 350 w/ flat tops steel crank cast pistons, 9.5:1, afrs, 750 holley, rpm intake, hooker supercomps, 4" cowl, msd dizzy, 6a box, msd blaster 2 coil and wires, nitrous super powershot
-stock tank, stock steel 3/8th's and 5/16's hard lines

THE GOAL- for a 150 shot (and soon to be 200+ with new shortblock)

NITROUS- I wanted to run a separate fuel cell /rci 1 gallon with holley electric blue and regulator.
And use the "nitrous activation" switch to activate the solienoids and turn on the pump so the pump isn't running alll the time.

FUEL- I wanted to also run a holley 130gph mech. pump and a regulator (don't know which yet suggestions please) for regular fuel system.
I wanted a regulator with 2 outlets for the carb and also an outlet for a one way pressure valve so i can fill the other side with coolant/water and run it inside to a pressure gauge. Anyone know details on that setup / part numbers or an easier way? and I also was looking for one with a gauge port so i can see the pressure under the hood as well.
Also - with this setup I want return style regulators, the holley electric with dump back into the cell; but the fuel systems 4 port regulator I wanted to dump back into the fuel pump's return line - CAN I piggy back return lines? or will there be unwanted pressure on the regulator from the pump pushing fuel back into the return?

Filters- Where should I run my filters with this setup? for nitrous and fuel.


ELECTRONICS- I want to activate my solienoids and turn on the electric pump for the secondary cell with one switch. I need a 2 separate relays I suppose? And can I run them to the same switch?
Also I want nitrous to turn on only when:
a) activation switch is on
b) wot switch is on
c) using an msd window activation: only during a certain rpm (3000-5500) (red line is 6000)


I am really looking for facts here; people that have done the same setup or simlar. Thanks for any help / clarrification.
Seperate responses for each section would be easier to read

/thanks again

Time2Fly

Personally, I would not set up this way. If you have ever heard an electric fuel pump run (and watched a pressure gauge when it starts), you will see that it takes a second or two for the pump to create pressure. If your solenoids are open and its shooting nitrous and not enough fuel, you could easily burn a cast piston. Here is what I do: 1. Wire the arming switch (on the dash, etc) to activate the relay for the dedicated pump and the microswitch on the carb. 2. Wire a fuel pressure switch into the ground circuit so that the system cannot activate unless the regulator (or wherever you plumb the switch in) has at least 6-7 psi fuel pressure. NOS #15680NOS is a fuel pressure switch that will close when 6-7 psi are applied to it. As far a filter goes, I would plumb something between the fuel cell and the regulator and thats it.

ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

thank you time2fly

in response: the pump and nitrous activation switch will NOT activate nitrous. They only allow the mirco switch to give 12 volts from the rpm window to the solienoids.

So from your statement I would draw that I must wait a few seconds from flipping the switch to going wot.

although i can tell your right now im going to get that nitrous fuel pressure switch.

great idea; exactly the type of response i was looking for, any more tips or does everything else look pretty good?

if anyone has anything else to add i'd really appreciate it.

brodyscamaro

I’ll just draw it… If you want to add a FPSS (fuel pressure safety switch) just put it inline between the WOT switch and the relay, or between the relay and the solenoids…

The MSD window switch works by providing a ground when you are in a certain RPM range, therefore you have to put it as your ground of your nitrous/fuel solenoid circuit’s relay.

ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

great diagram, thanks alot brodyscamaro


anything else to add anyone?
some things that are still on my mind:

do i need a return style regulator
if i do can i piggy back return lines

thanks for all the help; and keep it coming if you can...

brodyscamaro

If you piggybacked the return lines wouldn't your excess high octane fuel mix with and go back into your normal fuel tank?

ckjoshz28

iTrader: (1)

brodyscamaro, i was tossing the idea to use a return style regulator for my reg. fuel system which would require t'ing into the mech. fuel pumps return line.

I was adviced not to do this as the mech. fuel pump's 5/16's fuel line is far to small for a true return system and it is only used as a vent for the mech fuel pump as the pump's diagram naturally doesn't suck more fuel in when there is still fuel there.

although as an update, i am waving the benifits of going to an electric pump; most likely an aeromotive piece, as i am having a problem right now with hot fuel, and that is only with a 110 gph fuel pump; no regulator.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

all this for a 200hp shot of N2O?