OK a little about my car.

Its a 1991 gta

305 tpi auto (87,000 miles on it)

mods include

Edelbrock tes headers
3" exhaust flowmaster 80 series
ram air intake
msd 6a,msd coil
air foil, t/b bypass
underdrive pullies
afpr
3.73 getting put in now
drag radials on the way
1.6 rockers on the way

And I want to get the car to run around 13.5

so can you guys plz help me out on what to do next to get my car faster, I was thinking the bottle and running a 75-100 shot. But I wasnt sure if would be safe. Any imput is helpful.

 

you are at the point 9a little past) where a custom prom is needed. buying a chip won't help you because they cannot tune for the exact combination that you have. check out the diy prom pages. lots of helpful info there

 

If you go with nitrous, beef up your fuel system.
You will be fine with nitrous.

Get a window switch for the nitrous and a rev limiter.
Be sure to shut the nitrous off BEFORE the motor hits the rev limiter.
Ask me how I know

 

Before motor hits rev limiter??

How do you know you have hit the rev limiter?

I have stage 2 super chip, will that take my rev limiter away??

Also what do you mean by window switch?? explain this to me im new to this NOS thing.

Also when you say beef up my fuel system what should I do??

Should I get a dry or wet kit??

*bigger fuel pump?
*larger injectors?
*afpr?

More info would be great.

And what kind of shot do your suggest??

I was thinking 50-100 dont want no more than 100

but if my car runs 14.5-14.6 now and I add a 100 shot what should it run??

 

B/c I had the rev limiter set at 5900 and the window switch (this is an electronic switch that you can set to turn the n2o on and off at pre-determined rpm points) set at 6200.
The engine was bouncing off the rev limiter and still shooting nitrous.

Not sure, what is it set at? I have a MSD digital 6+ ignition and the rev limiter is in there.

I have a bigger fuel pump, new fuel filter, bigger injectors(you will probably will not need if you are going with a 100 or smaller shot), adjustable fuel pressure regulator

I have a dry kit. I like it. But I think you should try the search button and decide for yourself.

My car without the nitrous was running about 14.1.
With 50shot=13.6.
With a 75shot=13.4.
With a 100shot=13.1.
With a 125 shot=12.8
So roughly, for every 10hp shot, about a 1 tenth of gain.

 

You should be running mid 13’s in it now, without the spray, if you’re not I’d suggest you spend some time practicing making runs in it and figuring out what it likes.

 

Mid 13's now.....

I dont think the car has that now??

But the last time I drove it was with 2.73 gears in it.

What bolt on should I do next??

Any imput would be great.

 

A buddy of mine ran 13.7 with a ’87 305 TPI formula 5 speed with the edelbrock TES headers and dynomax cat back on it (I’m sure it had something WRT to air filter/cold air on it also). I’ve run 13.59@100 with a basically stock (SLP cat back and cold air intake, that's it) but tweaked ’87 formula 350/auto (rated at the same HP as your later 305)

Assuming that the gears are already installed… I’d probably ditch the flowmaster and swap it for something freer flowing, and then a converter after that… depending on how much you’re willing to spend, cheap converter I’d go 2800-3000rpm, a better one like a PI, Yank or ATI I’d probably go a little higher then that, around 3200 or so. With everything properly tweaked/tuned you should be tickling the high 12’s at that point.

I’d install a transgo shift kit and tranny cooler before I’d consider spraying it… the 700’s don’t apply enough pressure to the frictions with the stock fluid paths to deal with the extra torque that the spray will hit it with.

 

If I added a stall around 3000.

Would my tranny handle that?? I have heard that I would a cooler just to add a stall??

More info on that would be good.

I would mind shift kit but I dont want to change out my shifter, Just because I want it to look as stock as I can.

Would you suggest a rebuild before I spray it or what??

And yes I have thought About a new exhaust (American thunder series)

But I dont no yet.

Anyone got any ideas of some other mods??

 

Should be fine if the tranny is in good shape. A higher stall converter sort of softens the coupling between the engine and tranny and doesn’t beat on parts behind it as hard as a tighter converter would. You definitely need a cooler.

A shift kit has nothing to do with the shifter, it’s more accurately desicribed as a “shift improver” (transgo) or “shift reprogrammer,” where it reroutes how the fluid goes through the valve body so that it works better.

If it needs it. Spraying it gives you an instant hit of whatever hp you’re spraying, so if you’re hitting it with a 150hp shot at 3000rpm, that’s an instant additional 262.6lb-ft torque applied to the tranny at that point, so you could easily see a torque spike of 5-600hp on a stockish engine combination at that point. If your tranny is weak you will find it fairly quickly with spray, the first time you hit it and hook. I bought my formula from a guy that hit it with some spray before he parked it and it barely had a 2-3 shift when I got it running. On a whim I dropped a transgo shift kit that I had sitting around into it and ran it for 2 more years before it died.

The 80 series flowmaster (the crossflow, with outlets on both sides) is both one of the louder ones out there and one of the more restrictive… just about anything else will go faster. FWIW, I’ve found that a STOCK 4th gen cat back isn’t a restriction down to at least the high 11’s (had it rigged so I could take it off a the track and found that I couldn’t’ run a better time without the exhaust at all then I could with the stock 4th gen setup)

 

What about the engine would I be alright spraying it with 87,000 miles on it??

Or should I just do a rebuild first??

Also should I do a wet or dry kit??

I have heard I should do a dry kit just because wet kits cause puddleing in tpi's

What are the better kits??
Zex?
NOS?
edelbrock?
NX?
Or the ebay one's line TNT..... and such

More info would be great.

 

If things appear to be in good working shape then I would go with them like they are. If it was mine I’d probably at least put a transgo shift kit in the transmission, and possibly a cooler. If something is worn out and you’ve been ignoring it you’ll find it spraying a decent shot of N2O.

As far as I’m concerned wet is the only way to go unless you’re going to be running a small shot all the time. Like I said in the other thread about this right now, there is no way in hell you’ll get puddling if you only spray with at WOT and above 3000rpm, and if you do spray under other conditions you’re doing something wrong.

As far as I’m concerned NX are the best, but they also use bigger solenoids then the rest (which are more durable but also can be more difficult to mount in tight spaces…). I’ve never used the E’brock stuff, but it looks pretty standard. NOS is about the standard in the industry… my only issue with them is the smaller solinoids… Zex… yuck… good for people that just want to plug in a box, but not much adjustablility and no real way to change things if you need to change your system configuration for some reason.
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Why? Sure, with some tweaking you can get a few hp out of it, hell, you could do the same with a dead stock combination, but nothing that you couldn't get out of the car without tweaking the timing and fuel pressure a little bit. He hasn't made any changes that actually require tuning.

 

I car runs great!

Has never failed to start, oil changed every 3k you know the usual stuff.

But when I get a kit should I just spray likea 50 shot the a 75 the at the most a 100.

As soon as I decide on a wet or dry kit, then we will have to see.