Most ministarters are designed to clear a kicked out pan… but most have some adjustability built in. Are any of them built so that you can tuck the starter motor right up against a stock pan to give maximum clearance for something like a big, turbo downpipe?

 

I had a somewhat similar question for Scott. He was able to utilize quite a big downpipe for his 3.8, and despite the clearance issue, he was still able to use the stock A/C delete box. The starter was the next issue though for the V8. I spoke to a few reps that I know from Summit, and they're assuring me that their mini-starter would provide adequate clearance for a downpipe. Not guaranteed of course, but I'm more than likely going with this one myself....;

 

I will be mounting that Summit mini starter tomorrow and I'm hoping to have enough clearance around the downpipe. The stock starter cleared fine, so I can't imagine this one, with its adjustability, will pose any problems. My reason for the swap is to fix a hot-start issue though.

 

Attached are the picks of the summit mini starter next to the downpipe. It was able to tuck in close to the oil pan, but in order to do that, I couldn't use one of the bolts that mount the starter to the starter block. The bolt that mounted the starter block to the engine would interfere with the starter bolt. It holds fine with only one bolt, but it shouldn't have to be that way. Otherwise it seems to fit nicely with plenty of clearance for everything else.

Btw, the downpipe OD is 3" and the flange you see is 4" wide.

 

I'm using a powermaster mini starter with a 7qt oil pan, and have a 3 1/2" DP. with room to spare...... BUT I do have a BMR "K" member

Ray

 

Very very nice, you just solidified my decision....

 

Huh… nice pictures…correct me if I’m wrong but you may have just confirmed something that I was worried about, that the starter isn’t as big a problem there as the space between the “frame rail” and the side of the engine higher up?

 

I don't think that's the side of the engine though Mark (if I'm looking in the same general area as you are), it looks like some heat shield that he might of fabbed up for the wire looms. Above the heat sheild are the headers themselves. I'd imagine that if he relocated the harness w/heat shield elsewhere, it would make a tremendous difference....

 

There is a lot of space between the engine & frame rail. The biggest obstacle is fitting the downpipe between the frame rail & the manifold/header. In my case, I had to add small bends in the downpipe around the frame rail to avoid the manifold. A manifold/header design that hugs the engine more around the #8 cylinder will allow for a much larger downpipe. Also, removing the heater blower box will give you more room, but I decided to keep the box and run the tubing just in front of it.