nitrous adapter
Re: nitrous adapter
well a buddy of mine says he has a wet nitrous kit that he will help me put it in my car and he said the only things i need is an adapter and the jet. so i dont really know the nitrous lingo. so what is a fogger? sorry newb when it comes to nitrous
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From: Augusta, Ga
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 355ci L98 soon to be turbo'd
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi
Re: nitrous adapter
the jets determine what HP shot will be had. You need a fogger for the jets to go into. The fogger normally goes on the intake track. Now, what your friend is talking about is a plate system. Its normally a plate you put between the throttle body and the intake manifold and you put the jets on that. Sadly, I've never heard of anyone making a plate for V6 thirdgens. I currently have a plate system on my V8 Trans Am. The only different between a plate and a fogger is that a plate is a bit better since it hits a bit harder. If you put a 100shot of nitrous, 100hp doesn't always make it to the wheels...
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From: Lubbock, Tx
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: Brand New (again) 700r4
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt 7.625 W/ TrueTrac 3.23
Re: nitrous adapter
I had a plate system on my Z28 and I loved it....
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Re: nitrous adapter
the fogger system would be 6 individual n20/FUEL injetors tapped directly into each intake runners on the maifold.
a plate kit utilizes n20 and fuel as well, but instead of directly injecting it evenly into each cylinder, it is obviously shot into the intake inlet plenumn (behind T.B).
a dry shot is just nitrous injected before the throttle body, no fuel is added via the solenoids, so a maximum shot would be around 75hp. you have to do your homework on jet sizes and what they will yield hp wise.
dry shots i don't recommend, because the high risk of running lean and melting/detonating your pistons.
just remember the more N20 you spray, the more fuel you have to add, to keep the mix safe and yield the maximum power from your n20 system.
dry kits rely on your stock fuel system, im not 100% sure on how to set your fuel pressure regulator up to allow more fuel when n20 is activated. maybe someone with more experience on dry kits will chime in, otherwise start searching google.
good luck, and dont blow ur engine!
a plate kit utilizes n20 and fuel as well, but instead of directly injecting it evenly into each cylinder, it is obviously shot into the intake inlet plenumn (behind T.B).
a dry shot is just nitrous injected before the throttle body, no fuel is added via the solenoids, so a maximum shot would be around 75hp. you have to do your homework on jet sizes and what they will yield hp wise.
dry shots i don't recommend, because the high risk of running lean and melting/detonating your pistons.
just remember the more N20 you spray, the more fuel you have to add, to keep the mix safe and yield the maximum power from your n20 system.
dry kits rely on your stock fuel system, im not 100% sure on how to set your fuel pressure regulator up to allow more fuel when n20 is activated. maybe someone with more experience on dry kits will chime in, otherwise start searching google.
good luck, and dont blow ur engine!
Last edited by iroc a 86 berli; Sep 11, 2009 at 02:30 PM.
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,212
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From: Augusta, Ga
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 355ci L98 soon to be turbo'd
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi
Re: nitrous adapter
a direct port system is each individal cylinder, a single fogger (wet system) is set before before the throttle body and after the maf. On a dry shot, the fogger is set before the maf so when the shot is hit, the maf is supposed to add more fuel...but because of different FI systems, that doesn't always happen and thats when you get blown engines. So wet systems are safer...
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