like it says im thinking about adding nitrous but i dont know to much about it. im not trying to be a ***** or anything like that im actually just trying to make sure that i beat my friend with a 450 civic (gotta keep AMERICAN muscle alive). i have a 377 with stock forged 350 crank, h beam rods, je forged pistions at 10.8:1 cr. with 492 heads and a edelbrock performer rpm intake and edelbrock 750 carb. i know that there is dry and wet shot, i dont know what the difference is between them and im not looking to go over 100 shot anyway, but i am in an automotive class right now (high school class) and i am still learning, but i was told by my teacher that i wouldnt want to spray, turbo, or supercharge my motor if the compression is over 9.1:1cr, but i was looking on here awhile ago and i saw a guy wanting to spray with 10.5:1 cr so i was wondering would my set up be able to work with 100 shot and would i want wet or dry setup and what is the difference in the two? my brother ran spray on his junk mustang (04 gt) and blew it up and i dont want to do that because i dont have money like he does, so any help would be very helpful, thanks Ty.

 

Dry is just nitrous pumped into the engine. Most of those kits are around 50 HP.
Wet systems are in plates or fogger systems that pump fuel and nitrous into the engine.

Plate systems either go under the carb, TBI or behind the throttle body on EFI systems.

Fogger systems use direct port injector to supply the engine with a better atomized fuel/nitrous mixture.

Adding No2 is the equivalent to adding extra compression. You are forcing more air and fuel if it's a wet system into the combustion chamber. On pump gas you will have a high risk of detonation with your static compression ratio high.

I ran a 125 HP plate system on a Ford 302 just fine with stock rods, crank and cast pistons. I even added the 250 HP jets a couple times tho I don't recommend it to much with stock parts.

 

since you are carbed you have to run a wet kit. Make sure your fuel and ignition systems are up to par and you should be just fine running only a 100 shot. There are guys I run with running 150 shots on 10.5:1 CR motors' I have ran a 175 shot on a 9.1:1 motor with cast pistons and didn't have any problems except running out of fuel.

It's in the tune, pull some timing and make sure your fuel pump can keep up ( you better be running and electric pump not a mechanical.) You will be good to go.

 

That's not entirely accurate. Many 'dry' nitrous systems tap into the vacuum reference at the fuel pressure regulator to increase fuel flow through the stock injectors. They're considered 'dry' because they don't tap into the fuel lines, but they still require more fuel to keep from creating a lean condition.

 

They also make dry systems for carburetor engines also. It's called a Sneaky Pete System from NOS. Many, many, many oval track drivers including 1 NASCAR driver back in the late 60's or early 70's have been busted with them. He had it hid in the radiator tank. They offer a quick shot for a couple seconds or a few minutes just depends on how much room you have to hide it. All it does is dump pure nitrous into the engine good for 25 HP to the low hundreds.

 

And that works fine as long as you jet the carb to compensate for the increased air. Nitrous by definition is two Oxygen molecules linked to one Nitrogen molecule. When the gas hits the combustion chamber it seperates, releasing additional oxygen. Without additional fuel, you'll get a lean condition and parts will be damaged. It doesn't matter how, but fuel has to be added.

To suggest that 'dry' nitrous kits inject only nitrous is only half of the story. For most peoples purposes the Sneeky Pete is a waste of time anyway. NOS recommends it for short bursts, and a maximum jetting of 30hp. That's hardly worth the trouble and isn't even worthy of a footnote in most books.

You dig?

 

what the heck is a 450 civic?

wet systems inject fuel with the N2O, dry systems inject the fuel some other way, usually by increasing fuel pressure to the injectors or by using an aftermarket ecm setup to increase the injector duty cycle when the N2O is turned on.

N2O is fine for higher compression engines, yes, it does increase cylinder pressure, but it also increases burn rate so typically detonation doesn't have time to happen (within reason). N2O systems also typically make sure of that by some combination of running the fuel jets really rich, decreasing timing (usually 2"/50 hp shot) and/or running colder plugs. I did all 3 when i shot 225hp on my LT1 (much higher compression than you're talking about).

I'd suggest making sure that your tune is good and stepping up the spray a little at a time (start with a 50-75hp shot and increase it 25-50hp at a time once you've verified everything is OK). Most v8's will tolerate at least 125hp or so before they need to be built with special parts specific to running N2O, many as much as 200 or 250, but at that point you're usually running on the rugged edge of durablilty even if tuned correctly.

 

i ment 450hp my bad and thanks guys that helps out a lot

 

That should be for a MAP style injections systems only, on a MAF setup you put the nozzle before the MAF and it reads the extra incoming air from the nitrous and tells the computer to pulse the injectors to add the required fuel.

 

There may be systems that work that way, but what are they trying to accomplish by spraying in front of a MAF sensor? They're trying to make the stock electronics detect more air coming in, and expect the stock engine management to add fuel to compensate. In effect they're offering a cheaper system, and gambling with safety in the process. That's nice, assuming that the N2O breaks down into oxygen before it hits the MAF, and assuming that the stock injectors are capable of flowing enough fuel for the engines normal needs AND the additional needs of the nitrous. I certainly wouldn't trust the GM 85-89 MAF and injectors to be able to keep up. It doesn't matter if it's MAP or MAF, tapping into the vacuum reference is a more direct method of altering fuel flow.

 

or just get a wet kit and upgrade your pump...

 

if it is really a 450hp civic well tuned and with nice suspension that is a mid 10 second car of course it depends on the body style, eg ek etc. Those cars are very light and fast. Chances are that if he is putting down 450hp he has a big turbo with lag so that will be your advantage as well as traction. If this race is taking place on the streets you need to race him from a dead stop where he wont have traction and lag. If it is from a 50-60 mile roll 100shot wont do crap unless he is only beating you by a little bit. Do you have an estimate of how much power your car is putting down or 1/4mile time?

 

I agree that a wet kit is a safer way to go and what I ran on my 3rd gen. That being said I do have a dry nitrous 90 shot on my 4th Gen T/A, with the nozzle mounted in front of the MAF. I have sprayed it on the dyno and it does not lean out the computer compensates for it with out any problems.

I have everything to convert it to a wet kit, I just have not done so. I would recommend a wet kit over a dry kit. Less chance for a lean condition.

 

I don't mean any offense at all, but IMO i wouldn't use spray only because the way I see it is, American muscle is all engine not nitrous. (correct me if I'm wrong I'm a noobie too.) When I think of NOS I think of ricers. or, fast and the furious lol. If I lost to anything using that, I wouldn't be upset. because engine for engine I think I could take it. NOS to me is like steroids or plastic surgery. but none the less, a win is a win, and I'm not trying to discourage you. just giving my opinion. 450 hp is quite a bit, and if it takes NOS to win, then go for it.

 

^^^^^ you sir are def a noobie you said it yourself...


have you ever seen sportsman and pro mod cars???
ive seen some with hits at 250 each and they sure as hell arent ricers

everyone has an equal opportunity to put a bottle on their car..

theres 2 types of people

ones that use nitrous and ones that lose to it...the ones that lose to it are the first to complain that nitrous is cheating or for ******* etc...






isay put a hundred shot on and youll take that honda easily from a dig...i just raced a 380 whp eg hatch in a stock internal 90 vette on a hundred shot....i won and i didnt spray much longer than 4 seconds

 

like i said. I'm a noobie lol. and thank you for correcting me. As I said before I wouldnt be upset....or complain if I lost to someone using nitrous..I understand the difference it can make. although I've never personally experienced it. Actually i would be excited just to have witnessed it. keep in mind i've never been to a track

 

hahah just put the bottle on your car and run it you wont be disappointed

 

You've got a track right in Redding behind the airport, time to go out there in March to see some action. Nitrous has been around a hell of a lot longer than the fartcan guys. It was even used in WW2 in some German planes.

 

ive wanted to do that for a long time. i gotta get my car running right and head out there. i wanna see how my car can do stock, because so far, its been great to me.

 

Nitrous is very addictive. When you get that instant HP kick it's like your first look at a Playboy magazine. At least I got the same reaction.

 

lol now im feeling bad about ever commenting on nitrous at all. it just always reminded me of fast and the furious

 

i love my bottle its my fav mod on any car people who have no clue are the ones that bad mouth it and say your car is gonna blow up etc..

but nitrous works well when tuned right


go watch some all nitrous pro mod shootouts 6-7 sec cars on the bottle and thats 1/4 mile look up jim halsey he has the record fastest nitrous car ever nitrous is wayyy beyond fast and furious

 

Nitrous is great for a DD car that you take to the track every so often. You can run a nice street friendly setup, mild cam, CR etc. Then hit the jug an click off nice quick 1/4 mile pass.

I have had nitrous on 3 cars now and never had any problems. Correct installation and tuning is the key.

 

I've only had one major problem with n2o on the street (had a fuel solenoid get stuck open which pretty much resulted in getting the car towed home), but don't agree that it's a great setup for a street car that gets raced occasionally. The problem is that it's a pain on the street... there is basically nothing you can do with it legally on the street (heh, don't ask how I got a fuel solenoid stuck driving home from work... ), most cops don't seem to really know what laws apply and which don't and knowing yourself doesn't help because the last thing you want to do is to tell a cop that what they're writing you a ticket for doesn't apply..., and when you really have everything legal/safe(WRT to legality), then you don't usually have an easy way to use it anywhere but on the track.

 

Where did you get the ticket?

 

I am not going to sit here and say that I haven't ran nitrous on the street, **** I have a 2/3 full bottle in my trans am right now and I'm at work. But if you do so, be ready to accept the consequences, tickets breakage or what ever else can go wrong. If you aren't then leave the bottle out unless you are at the track. The key to to keeping the cops off your *** about the nitrous is having the bottle hidden. If you are written a ticket that doesn't apply that should be pretty easy to prove in court.

 

Ive been skeptical about N20 before

But now im seriously considering it for my 305 this summer instead of swapping in a 350(which i will do later on down the road, but that cost a bit more)

Im kinda excited for it, especially since i saw the post by MotorMouth "Nitrous is very addictive. When you get that instant HP kick it's like your first look at a Playboy magazine. At least I got the same reaction. "

 

I've been thinking about swapping my blower for a nitrous system. I like to feel a real kick in the butt. The blower is nice and the car is quick but its too smooth for me to be a good adrenaline rush especially with an automatic. Soooo, a t56 is going in and I'll probably run a 150 shot or so. I could probably run a lot more with 4340 crank, rods, srp pistons....110 cam but I hear more than 150 is a real bear. I'll get much better mileage and the car will be quieter.

 

keep the blower and add a shot of n2o...you'll keep the benefits of the blower while having the seat of the pants feel on spray. And it'll cool the charge air drastically

 

I have a supercharged Cobalt for my DD and feel the same way. But, for you to ditch the SC and go nitrous would be a step back IMO. You could do what 89ROC-Z suggests or the other alternative is going turbo. I love the feel of the turbo on my TA. Most people complain about turbo lag, but I think that kick in the butt is what makes a fun ride.

 

Does anyone know if there is a law saying you can not have nitrous on a street car? I have heard these stories, but people also say that three wheelers are illegal, so you can not believe everything you here.

If I were to guess I would say that it is not the police's business what you have in your car or how fast it is. You can get caught doing a burnout in a 4 cylinder s10 or a 10 second camaro. It is not really the car that chooses to break the law, it is the driver.

 

I know there is a federal law prohibiting the sale of new 3 wheelers in the united states from a dealer. Private party sale and operation is not illegal. They are still manufactured/sold in other countries, I saw them for sale in germany.

I know here in AZ there is a law about use of nitrous on the street. I think the way they nail you for just having it in the car is not having the hazardous materials placard displayed.

 

I might add nitrous to the blower, if I want to hit 9's before I take it off. But thats kind of cheating. It would be impressive to hit 9 seconds with a base level supercharger. Its def coming off though, the part throttle tuning is a real PITA and I just don't need this much power on the street. A 460hp 383 with a stick should be plenty of fun. I'm aiming more towards fun and not fast. I've thought about a turbo but I would want to go efi or maybe save that for an LS motor. If I don't like it, the car can always change.