I have a 383 long block with AFR 195 heads, forged bottom end, HSR intake, P600b Procharger. I plan on running about 15 pounds of boost, and need help deciding on injectors.

Should i A) keep the F.M.U. and get 42 pound injectors, and a tune for the extra ci, or B) get bigger injectors and get rid of the F.M.U. and tune?

Also, what do i need to do to the computer to run the 383, i have a 1991 speed density 730 computer and wiring harness. I have no knowlede tunning, so i will need some guidance.. i do have a aldl cable haha.

Any help with computer info, injector size, and sugestions will be great! Also, before i got the engine, the engine dynoed 530 Hp and 575 Tq with 30 # injectors and 9 pounds of boost using an F.M.U.

THANKS!!!! SHANE

 

Anyone??

 

i'm running 42lbs on my 305 with 14#'s no fmu Code 59 custom tune.

if your not that familiar at tuning and dont want to take the time to learn then run the FMU, if not go with 60# injectors and tune without an FMU.

i doubt you'll make 15#'s of boost with a 383 and that blower, in fact it may be under 10#'s

 

I'm running a 383 with a P1SC, haven't seen above 7#'s yet with a 3.4" pulley. I'm also using the $59 code, no FMU and 60# injectors.

 

well, what do i need to do to the computer to run the 383, should i find someone who can tune my car and tune it on 60 pound injectors?

 

Can you get a real map for that SC instead of the BS the vendor lists. The specs showing just max. values doesn't mean much. Max. of 775HP, Max. of 24PSI............great, but they don't happen at the same time for most cases.
Once you get a map and some pulley values then you can plot out the actual HP with your engine. Then you can choose injectors.

Overall, If you can really get 15 PSI on that 383 ci then I think you will end up with 72# injectors or bigger, 730 ECM w/ $59 code or maybe an MS-II ECU. If you are new to tuning then MS-II is easier, but harder at the same time because you will need to install it.

 

You will need a PROM programmer (ebay Willem), an ALDL cable, and lots of time to spend reading how the $59 tables work. Or just have someone else tune it with the $59 code. Or just go with the MS-II which you can learn to tune yourself pretty quickly.

 

Where can i find some good 60 # injectors? i think i am going to buy this 749 syclone ecm and then get a tune. Or would it be a waste of money to get the 749 ecm and stick with my stock 730 ecm? I am going to be taking the car somewhere and having someone tune it.

 

I had the 749ecm for a bit but there were some quirks so I switched back to a normal 730ecm and just repinned like 2 wires in the harness.
I bought my injectors from www.racetronix.com like 5 or 6 years ago. Go with the 730ecm repinned, $59 code and learn to use tunerpro. Very minimal costs compared to some alternatives. The other IMPORTANTING thing your going to want is a WB02 sensor, I'd recommend an Innovative LC-1 but everyone has their own preferences. This is a must if you're going to be tuning with boost. Not using it you're flying blind and likely to melt a piston.

 

I bought my 60lb siemens injectors from fuelinjectorconnection.

If he's not going to do any tuning himself, is a WB O2 necessary?

 

no body can tune a car without looking/driving it, they may get it close but never where it should be, a wbo2 is a must with a supercharger

 

Cause if the shop he's going to bring it too does it with a tailpipe sniffer, thats it. I was recommending from an aspect of visibility AND what guy / girl you know with a hi-po setup doesn't get his nose wet with as much as possible. I know I wanted to go ***** deep in mine and I'm into everything now from tuning to building my own motors.

 

I am the same way. I love having a bunch of sensors telling me what is going on and messing with parameters. It just didn't sound like the OP was interested in tuning/tweaking his own car. If so, I'd recommend a stand alone system (if budget allowed) to make tuning a bit easier for a beginner.

 

well i guess ill stick with the 730 ecm, and i am going to be having someone tune the car and hopefully then know about the code 59. I do not have enough experience to do this whole computer thing. and i think i will get 60 pound injectors and get rid of the fmu..

 

what do you guys think about these 66 pound injectors for a 383, p600 procharger, stealth ram, afr 195, and the smallest pulley for the p600 a 2.65.

Or is that to much injector and should i go with 55s?
Thanks

 

If you are keeping the 730 ECM then you must run only saturated injectors. The 749 ECM can be wired for either saturated or peak and hold.

What is your BHP estimate?
55_injectors*8*.8 / .56 = 630 FWHP.........too small

Ditch the FMU because you will need a big pump to get the volume & pressure

 

well things changed today, and i picked up a 749 ecm that was for that motor ( 30 lb injectors and fmu) and it put down 530 hp at the wheels on 8 pounds of boost.

So now i need injectors for the 749 ecm. Sugestions? BHP i dont know, cause people are saying i am not gonna see above 9 pounds of boost with my p600b , but i can still order a smaller pulley. It might not push any more boost though, but we will see..

And i would really like to ditch the fmu.

 

i'd keep your 730 ecm and run code $59 if possible. I have had good success with it so far. Still some issues to tune out but getting there. If your not familar with tuning its gonna be abit of a challenge to learn on something like this. May want to consider some sort of BS3/FAST or even an LSx conversion ecm setup because alot more ppl are familar with those setups and can tune it.

500-600whp i'd try 60 lb injectors. They can support up to 700 i've heard. My buddy has them on his lsx motor and made 702whp but i think the fuel pressure made them act like 72 lb injectors

 

Well i have NO tunning or chip burning experience, and i bought the 749 syclone ecm that was with this motor..... So i hope i can find someone that can tune it. Or worst case ( which i think i have to do) is find out what equipment i need to be able to tune it, and then take it to a tunner.

This stuff is very confusing...

All i know is i can either,
A) stick with 36 lb injectors and fmu and throw it together and run it that way or
B) Find out what size injectors (66 lb at racetronix.com) and find what equipment to be able to let the tuner tune it and get rid of the fmu.

I would rather go with B cause people say the fmu is just a bandaid for the fuel system..

IDK so confusing. wish i could afford the Accel thruster efi ($1500). O well.. haha

Sorry about my 18 year old knowledge on this stuff. Still trying to learn it step by step.

any advice always welcome haha

 

anyone else??

i have the 749 and aldl cable.. now what. computer has already been set up to run that motor but with fmu.

 

Honestly, the 749 and it's code (58,59 and 60) were ALL setup by GM to not need an FMU. The code sees boost (above 100kpa) and adjusts the VE or fuel accordingly. It's not the ECM thats doing it, it's the code. We run the same code a 749 ecm does / could on a 730 ecm. I personally run the $59 code with a 730 ecm (stock 91 ecm) in my 91 Z28. I know you think tuning is a little intimidating, sorry.

 

ya it is very intimidating, i just need to figure out what i need and once i hook it up i could probably get it figured out. And that sucks i bought the 749 when i could of just used my 730. So what do i need to buy as far as equipment?

Like chip burner? and probably other stuff i have no clue about? Thanks

 

should i follow this website as far as what i need to buy? http://www.code59.org/index.php?opti...d=26&Itemid=55

i thought i found a step by step tuning site, but i cant find it, and everything on thirdgen gets confusing.

 

www.moates.net

get the burn2 programmer, his GP1 chip adapter package with 2 chips ,and his aldl scan cable. Less than 250 bucks all you need. Tunerpro RT should come with the burn2 and your set.

Its not easy, since you need a good base map to work with with code 59. That was the hardest part. Start with Dig's 60lb bin with a modded timing table for a 350 L98 but modded alittle bit in the areas of idle and WOT. Anywhere from 32-35 deg is good to start with for part throttle mid to low map, and low to mid rpm ranges. Enable the closed throttle table and set most of the cells around your expected idle rpm a set value, and try to start the car.

Key is to get it idling on its own obviously..before you can start driving/tuning part throttle. Sometimes finding the idle tune is the hardest and most time consuming. It was for me for sure. But once i got it happy with idle, I was getting into booost not long after. I was going WOT 10 psi with in days of getting idle down but idle took me like several weeks just because i was new to the code and had to experiment with what did what. Now that i know what worked for me, i'm sure I could guide you in the direction to what would work for you.
But having a general understanding of the code and tuning in general will help alot. Since you dont, i'm not sure if this is a project you should be tackling. A n/a motor can tolerate a crap tune for a while when your just starting out, as long as your somewhat careful and take your time. A boosted motor is abit more sensitive to overall tune. I'm sure you can get it down and if you take your time, you can get the tune in without any motor problems.

 

I am thinking maybe getting injectors and trying it on my stock 350, that way if something happens, i didnt blow the built motor... maybe even take the supercharger off and then try messing with it.

Also, i have a autometer wideband gauge, and i have been told they are not very accurate, should i switch to a different wideband, like a fast or aem or something??

 

Camaronut96, you shure you don't have a Autometer O2 guage? Those are not accurate because they are a narrow band vs. a wide band. If you paid less than a 100bux for the guage its a NB02 not WB02. Almost all the WB02 guages are 300+ if they come with a wide band O2 sensor. Don't worry about having the 749ecm. You can always ebay it.

 

[quote=AC;4485612]Camaronut96, you shure you don't have a Autometer O2 guage? quote]

I do have a Autometer WB02 gauge. like this one, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-5778/ .

I have been told these are not very accurate. So should i stick with using the 749 ecm or 730?


[quote=AC;4485612] Don't worry about having the 749ecm. You can always ebay it. quote]

Ill send u a pm.

 

Well that's certainly a WB02 setup. I've never heard of it not being that accurate. Now I'm curious as to what type of actual sensor they include with the kit. Maybe a BOSCH or some other sort...?

 

I think it is great that at your age you decided to go with boost because it really is the cheapest way to make HP.

If you are going to get injectors then buy 60#/hr saturated (not peak and hold). You can use your stock 730 ECM with them and the $59 code.

Orr89RocZ gave you great advice on where to start in terms of tuning. Re-read it a few times.

If you install the 60#/hr on your (stock?) 350ci you are going to get frustrated trying to tune and may give up. Your 350ci will be much harder to tune idle with the 60s than the 383 will be. I wouldn't do it, but you can try if you want. Idle will be the hardest part to tune. Once you get it everything else will be easier. If you go with a WBO2 (I recommend) then the ECM will log your AFR and make it easier to tune boost. Just don't hammer down right away. Tune idle, then cruise, then low boost up to 2 PSI, then up to 6 PSI, etc.
Just take baby steps and it will stay together.

 

I would guess the bosch because the NTK is very expensive now. The bosch can be bought for around $50 bucks. There was a lot of talk about the NTK being superior on DIY PROM. I have run both and see no difference. I stick with the Bosch now because of the cost.

 

[QUOTE=camaronut396;4485691][quote=AC;4485612]Camaronut96, you shure you don't have a Autometer O2 guage? quote]

I do have a Autometer WB02 gauge. like this one, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-5778/ .

I have been told these are not very accurate. So should i stick with using the 749 ecm or 730?


The 749 and 730 are almost identical inside. The 749 can be wired to handle peak and hold injectors or saturated. The 730 can only handle saturated. In your case I would run the 730 and 60# saturated injectors. It will minimize any re-wiring.

 

What if the 749 is already set up to run the 383, just not 60 lb injectors. Should i still use my 730?

 

From a functionality point of view, just removing the PROM from the 749 ECM and installing it in your 730 ECM would be like installing the entire 749 ECM.
The PROM (code) determines the behaviour of how the engine runs. You could use that PROM and just change the injector constant from what it is now to the 60#/hr you will be running. There are probably some other tweaks like acceleration enrichment, etc that will need to be tweaked.

The problem with an FMU at your power level is the demand it puts on the fuel pump. As you increase the fuel pressure via the FMU it then reduces the fuel pump volume so you almost need to run two pumps to keep it out of the danger zone.

 

HE made need 2 pumps anyway with a 383 on 10psi. Thats over 500whp for sure and a good single with hotwire kit/boostapump kit is usually rated to near 550-600whp. Thats border line 2 pump area.

 

hmmm.. well all i know is that the guy i got the 383 from was running a walbro 255, 30lb injectors and an fmu, and it made 530 hp.

I am still unsure what i will do, i will think about it while i get all the other parts. May just run the same setup that guy had, maybe just 32 or 36lb injectors, hotwire kit, and maybe a second fuel pump or whatever.