with the great success of my last build ive decided its time to stop playing games and build an all out race motor, ive been eyeing up parts for a long time to build what i consider to be the best possible combination for what i want to do. and now that i can finaly afford to pull the trigger on the parts heres what its shaping up to be

this time around instead of using a basically stock motor with a ported top end im going with a custom shortblock

3.4 block with a 2.8 crank to bring total displacement to 3.0L should have no problems reving up to 9k

i will be using a set of machined 327 small journal rods to fit the 60* v6 motor

JE will be doing the custom forged pistons needed to build the destroked engine cr will be 9.8-1

again i will be calling up delta cams for another custom grind (solid roller cam this time around )
276/280 dur .580/.580 int/ex on an 116 lsa

and of course the same parts i put in all my other engines
king engine bearings
arp rod bolts main studs and head studs
plasma moly rings
vr headgaskets

heads will be done by me again as usual with stainless oversized valves
ported lower and mid intake with a custom upper with 2 injectors per cyl

engine management will be handled by a megasquirt 3 with sequential injection and individual cyl fuel and ignition control with ls1 cop ignition setup

the turbo setup will change a lil bit this time around turbo headers will have 1 3/4 primarys this time around and will merge into a 3 inch crossover

also changing will be the front mount a2a intercooler i will be going with an a2w setup mounted inplace of the passenger seat with an 8 gallon water/ice tank


now for the fun part
the turbo is going to be an s475 with a t4 flange also called an s400sx in this configuration

80mm compressor
83mm turbine wheel with a t4 housing and an a/r of .90 should have no problem spooling this turbo

and some pics of one nexto a soda can soda can for size





im goin to ditch the 700r4 in favor of a th350 or th400 with a brake now that i have found a transadapter for the 60* motor

this combo should make some awsome power

ill post up pics as i order my parts and they come in and keep u guys posted on the build
the only thing i havent decided on is if this combo will go in a camaro or an s10 pickup yet

 

since the car will have 2 sets of injectors and 2 separate fuel rails would i be better off running the dual walboros tee'ed like i do now or should i run 2 feeds and 2 regulators so each pump supplys a single fuel rail

 

I love your turbo builds, and can't wait to see what you can do once again. i have started buying parts for my build piece by piece starting with another block since this is my daily driver. I'm having trouble with header design since i want to keep my ac and power steering. any suggestions would be appreciated. good luck and can't wait to see what numbers you push this time

 

thnx, and i have just the design u want to retian everything, well u will have to loose the air pump for this to fit but its the only way to do it

the header goes on the passenger side and come out below the alt mount bracket, u reusue the stock driver side manifold and build ur own crossover pipe to the turbo header

heres a few shots from when i drew it up in 3d




im actually in the middle of building one now as a mock up header, but ill be using the style headers i used on my last build for my new build

the rear 2 bolt flange used for the crossover tube has to start making its 90* bend downward riht at the rear runner on the cyl head to clear the firewall, and the front 90* were the turbo mount is actually a lil short in this drawing has to be moved foward about 2 inches so the 90* bend clers the bottom of the altanator bracket and so the compressor cover on the turbo dosent rub the tensioner pully.

i should have some exact measure ments posted for this style header in a few days

btw primary tubes are 1.5 in od and the main log tube is 2.5 inch

 

Good build man, cant wait to see how this does.

The second method of seperate feeds to each rail would be a good deal more expensive and I dont see the advantage in that. I would tee the walbro's together and have single feed going to the rails then split the feed at the rails so it goes into the rails. Return line just combine into single return back to tank.

Run the second walbro on a hobbs switch. Should work out fine. I assume megasquirt has boost reference point to activate the secondary injectors? Reason I suggest a hobbs switch is to keep second pump from running all the time. Extends life of the pump and less heat in the fuel tank. If you do seperate feeds, then you will need the second pump on all the time just to keep the fuel lines filled with gas until needed. Just dont see the benefit of having both pumps on at the same time when the second is not needed. Set the hobbs switch to come on a few psi earlier than injector activation point so the line gets primed in time

 

thanks for the idea. i'll see what i can come up with when i start welding mine up. good luck on your build. i'll be keeping an eye on this thread. one last question. i'm using a maf and you say it's good til about 7lbs of boost. I'm only going for 5-6 pounds and already plan on a boost reference fpr and 17# injectors. anything else besides a megasquirt system that you would recommend? i want to use the megasquirt, but is there anything else along with it that i should use? thanks one agian.

 

yeah i was figuring that the megasquirt does have the ability to turn on the second set of injectors and thats the reason im going this route is so i can run a small injector for street driving and low boost and not have idle or driveability issues that u would have with a massive single injector per cyl



juggalo do 19 # 305 injectors no fmu just a boost refrerenced 1-1 fpr and u will be fine be sure to have a wideband o2 sensor to keep an eye on afr's

 

well i ordered my pistons ended up going with custom j.e's

i went with an .045 quench
pistons are in the hole .005
.040 compressed gasket
with a 16 cc dome

gives me 11.03cr :2thumbs:

at 137$'s a piece i sure do hope they work out well

 

11 to 1 for a turbo V6??

 

11:1 = stuff breaking.. Way to high

 

yeah i purpposly bumped the cr way up there this time around, going to need the extra compression to spin up the s475 turbo, the large cam should help keep the cyl presures down and methonal will control the detonation

 

Will you be attending the Bench Race Annual (pittspeed event) in steubenville ohio this june? Is this motor being built on the side or is the car completely down right now and under construction?

 

ill deff try to make it

car still has the old 3.1 with the 60-1 in it currently im building this motor up when its done it will make its way into the car
though im oing threw some drastic mods to the car so it will take a while once i start to swap it,
im going to do a front mounted turbo out in the grill area with a layed over radiator , cabin mounted a/w cooler etc etc. car will still be a street car but more of a race car then anything i quess when im done

 

You don't need a megasquirt, and every vacuum referenced regulator is one to one, it simply has no choice but to rise with increased demand. How high your regulator will supply up to though will dictate how much boost you can run with it, and at 5-6 pounds of boost, I don't see your injectors going static, and you will be fine so long as your fuel pump is good. You only need to alter the WOT fueling in the chip and your done, your O2 correction handles part throttle fueling. When you start to exceed boost levels in which your injectors can handle, it is there where you would need larger injectors, as well as pulse width adjustment, but for what you want to do, stick with the stock ECM and tune for WOT, trust me....

 

thanks so much for all the info. i am about to get a tig welder this weekend so i can start the manifold. do you have a cam that you recommend, and shoud i use a 1.6 rocker arm with it, or just a 1.52 roller? is there a link to help me tune my chip?

 

Learning how to burn your own prom will take time. I would recommend contacting pcmforless and asking them to burn you a chip based exactly on your specs. They only need to focus on your wot fueling, but since your paying for the service, make sure they lower your fan setting(s), as well as tweak the timing some for you. Your afr's might not be precision at wot with a mail order chip, but it will be very close, and you can always adjust for that with an adjustable regulator by slightly increasing and/or decreasing fuel pressure some. If your planning on a camshaft, just run your stock rocker ratio and focus on cam lobe lift....