lil bit of progress

some minor port matching and clean up work



and the presicion injectors installed to the intake, going to finish up the tpi system here in a lil bit

 

ITS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME NOW


im thinking 2 weeks tops till i have it on the street

 

 

i'd use a smaller screen but i'm waiting on this to run .great job so far

 

that screen came on the turbo, i dont plan to use it at all, i live on the edge of the desert so it gets windy and dusty as hell here, this will have a full filter on it though im still trying to figure out placement of the turbo so i can fit a large enough filter on it

 

 

if you dont mind me asking what color is that blue looks great

 

its kyrlon metal x blue paint sprayed over rustoleum metalic silver base coat, gives it a very deep metalic finish when the sun hits it unfortunatly my cell phones camera wont catch it, tommorow when im working on it ill bust out the good camera and snap a few pictures

 

well i just got the manifold bolted on for the last time,but as i went to install the alt i relized the cyl head was cracked were the mounting boss is, there is no easy repair so this build may get a lil serious now

might say hell with a set of jy heads and just spring for a set of afr 227's with 75cc chambers

pics in a lil bit

 

 

I can't see the crack and how deep it goes down to where the head meets the block. Just the missing cast around the thread is an easy fix. The old fuelie heads don't have that bolt hole so you had to make a bracket. The bracket just bolts to the exhaust manifold bolt holes and provides the alternator bolt nut. You have to trim down the long alternator tube to do it.

 

shhh with that trying to justify a set of afr's heads to the gf lmao

 

That looks pretty deep based on what I can see. At least through the whole rail. A set of decent heads would make this a hell of a lot easier. Quick79 on TTF had a factory 400 block he ran 5.65s in the 1/8 on with an S400 75mm and AFR 220s I believe. That's 8s pretty handily I believe and it was a 3400lb car. Throw an 88mm wheel in that turbo and things could get nasty fast.

Besides that I wanted to say I would get some sheet metal and make some ducting around that IC to the front nose. The tighter the better, it would substancially increase your efficiency probably.

 

heh, and I was about to list a few ways to fix/get around that...

 

I have a bare 882 cylinder head just sitting here if you need it; 1.94/1.50 w/76cc....

 

If it was mine with a stock 400 block and bottom end I would run the GM heads. If it chucks rod and piston hits the head then no big deal. Wack an AFR and that sucks. Plus I am not a fan of good heads like AFR with a big chamber. If you go with the AFR then I would get the small CC and run dish pistons. Basically, spend some money in that case.

For just a crack that shouldn't affect the head gasket I would just run the GMs and see what you can get out of it in my opinion. But I wouldn't turn down a set of AFRs for free either.

That TV7512 is a nice fit.

 

i took the day off from the car after finding the cracked head it got me really stressed and irritated.So today i said **** it im not touching the car and im going to have some fun







needless to say stress is gone and im relaxed so i thought about what i was go ing to do.i really dont need good heads to make tons of power.so im going to save the money and just but the mid mount bracket and backing bracket so i dont hae to worry about the bolt hole in the head, the brackets im getting completly do away with the mounting to the head, and is pretty much what bracket they used on the fuelie heads

 

Looks like fun out there. It is turkey season here right now and there is nothing like playing the game calling one in.

Good choice on the brackets. I think with the stock heads and the DD turbo you will make plenty of power.

 

well i only had a few mins to work on the car today so i rough cut out some material to fit the charge pipes , final routing is shown in the pics ,though i do hae to make the one tube longer to reach the tb

 

Looking good. Keep posting pics, I really miss mine. Been away from home for over a month now, Missing prime wrenching weather.

 

so its 11 pm and u get bored what do u do ????

 

the goal is to make it run today i hae about 6 hours before it gets dark out so it may just happen ,without the turbo of course

 

bov arrived ,wasteate will be here tommorow

 

wastegate showed uptoday ,header flanges were supposed to be here as well but fedex guys said they werent on his truck

i finished up just about all the wiring stuck on 4 wires comming out of the bulkhead connector but i put up a post in the electronice section with pics to see if anyone knows were they go

post up some pics a lil later

 

The BOV looks cool, what kind of gate did you use? Just an ebay knockoff or something else? I have 2 ATR gates here but I need flanges and springs for em and one needs a diaphragm. Am debating 1-2 ebay gates at this time tbh, it looks as if it's going to be 120 for the springs, flanges and one diaphragm to replace the bad one. Either that or I'm thinking of getting a sheet of the reinforced rubber from Mcmaster since they sell it and attempting to fabricate my own diaphragm.

 

hks 50mm ebay knockoff they work just fine i paid 65 bucks shipped for mine with a 10 psi spring,though i am buying an assortment of springs as well 3.5 psi 7.63 psi 15 psi and a 21psi spring

if u want a link let me know and ill link u to the seller i got mine from ill post up pics soon as i finish sorting out this wiring

 

pics of wastegate as promised

 

2 questions, can you provide me the diameter of the aluminum "can" at the widest point and do you know what kind of diaphragm these take as replacements/where to get one?

 

the can is about 4inch in diamiter i cant get an exact measurement untill i change the 10 psi spring out of it, from time to time the diapragms pop up on ebay, but im sure an hks replacment fits it

 

header flanges arrived today just waaiting on my 1 5/8s mandrel bends, 3 bolt flanges and my t6 inlet flange

 

 

tpi system, brand new precision 65# injectors, ms 2 v3.0 with COMPLETE PLUG AND PLAY HARNESS, and t6 76mm turbo all for sale

 

hmm

 

uhhh ohhhhh!!!

going a different route?

 

not really , just getting away form the fuel injection

pt101mm turbo , afr 227 heads , forged 406 shortblock ,vic jr holley 750

 

Fight it Dave. So many times have I considered dropping the 305 build in favor for something better, either that or I went back and forth with fuel injection vs blow-thru so many different times. You got an excellent foundation there, so just get it done, see what you can get out of it, then do the other thing. My opinion, anyways....

 

Unless you are going with a Little M I wouldn't bother going past getting that upgraded to an 88. It should have enough for that block and then some. Maybe make your headers with the 106 in mind but on a stock 406 block you're talking about dropping parts fairly handily I think.

 

i didnt plan on factory parts at all
dart block = 2,600 preped and ready to go
434 stroker kit = 1,500 includes rings bearing (though id probably toss the rings for a hellfire ring set

so for 4,100 bucks id end up with

a full forged 434 ci inch shortblock pretty much bullet proof 9.4--1 cr with 76cc chambers or 9.8-1 cr with a 64 cc chamber
and for another 2,100 a set of afr 220's which alone would make a really nice combo without the turbo

a fresh rebuilt 101/106 t6 turbo would run me about 1k

its really tempting but i need to sit down and think whats its really going to cost me to build the rest of the car to handle this combo and if im really going to want to street drive something like this on a semi daily basis

an lsx 101/106 turbo could do about the same but i havent messed with much lsx stuff other then boltons really, so what would it cost to do an lsx thats comparable to my planed 434 build ???

 

You're probably talking a glide or a T400 (thinking glide) and a good converter, a Dana 60 or a 9" out back too, a full 25.X cage and a chute, probably brakes too. Realize it's extra weight but maybe a BBC? JMO lock the combo down with what you have (chassis etc.) You could have 8s with a comp wheel upgrade if everything holds. Don't forget your safety gear if you ever intend on taking it to the track and a massive fuel pump to feed the power that you're looking at. Doubt a single A1000 would do it even with a carb even though feel free to correct me on that one.

 

where are your finding 101/106 turbos for 1k?

 

sick build!

 

i said screw it im sticking with what i have. besides the iroc i also have a 87 firebird that i am swaping the 305 for a 3.0L v6 with a 75mm turbo. so i really dont have a need to do anything crazy with this car. not to mention this whole combo could be pushed into the 8's with probably just a compressor wheel upgrade.

in all reality for a street car u dont need anything more then that.and even 10/9 second car is to much for a street car

so yesterday i finished cleaning and painting the engine bay. and i also completly redid my entire megasquirt harness since i was unhappy about how it fit and the crimped connections on the wires. so i redid it to fit just how i wanted it to and got rid of all the crimp conections and soldered everything.

(got the harness premade from another board member )


today im going to reinstall the ms,finish the coldside, and finalize the mockup on the hotside before i start welding it together

 

im keeping what i got,instead of building a motor im going to spend the money on the chassi,stuff like suspension, rollcage,subframes,chute etc etc etc.

im only into my hotside for a grand total of 72$'s
thats for the header flanges,primary tubing, crossover tubing, which i have all mocked up but my new welder wont get delivered till the next tuesday the 24th grrr, but its alright its supposed to rain the next 4-5 days anyway

ill have to add in the cost of 2 pairs of 3 bolt flanges, and a t6 inlet flange to the hotside total.

downpipe cost will probably be around the same i need to pick up the vband assembly and a 5 to 4 inch reducer


anyways i got the engine bay painted (need to touch it up a lil bit )




soon as the car is together im going to finish the body work and its going to be sprayed with this color combination
this silver for the flames

and this blue for the car

 

Wow, those are some serious cheated cuts. Are you going to clean them up first? The engine bay looks good. Let us know how you like spraying that Kirker paint. Are you using the urethane or acylic?

 

those were mock up peices to see how close i could get the logs to the head/valve cover for downpipe clearance.

im using 1 3/4 90's i got from an ex shop even though my flanges are only 1 5/8's the reason being is were im cutting them on the bend is the metal is shrunk down to just over 1 5/8;s

lil bit of hammer work on an anvil and they drop right into the header flange , soon as it stops snowing and raining ill go get sone pics of the actual tubes im using

the paint is eastwood urethane paint ill deffinatly let u know how it comes out, but car craft did a write up on the stuff along with summit paint and the results of the eastwood stuff was good

 

Sounds like you are going to squeeze a 3.5 or 4" down pipe in there. I forget the part number for the exh outlet flange and band clamp, but I ordered it from rockauto once I got the part number from the Walker HD accessory catalog. I have the part number around here somewhere if you need it.

What did you order for a welder?

 

Very interested in the p/n for the exhaust flange. I have an older Turbonetics t6 88mm with a 5 in Garrett exhaust housing and I can't seem to find a flange that fits it.

 

Very good build so far. I like what your doing

If you could get that motor for that your doing good. I got 1800 into my SHP block fully machined and I think another 2800 in rotating assembly/balance work/studs/rod bearings/main bearings/machining on rods/bolts/etc and shipping to my house (shipping rotator only, block was free shipping!) To get all that on a Lil M block would be a steal. I thought I paid 4664 shipped for all my parts for shortblock... alittle more than I wanted to spend.

 

You can do an ls motor for about the same price or cheaper. Its one of the reasons I didn't rebuild my 383 SBC.

 

downpipe will be 5 inch just past the wheel well then will reduce to 4 inch before it makes the trun down the firewall and under the car , from there it will be 4 inch all the way back to a borla race bullet and turned out to the side of the car infront of the passengerside rear tire. car wont pass inspection if i dump it infront of the rear axle


i could deffinatly use the pn for the vband and the vband flange

i ordered up an ac/dc tig machine from harbor frieght , but besides that i got a miller mig and a harbor frieght flux mig