The Walker Exhaust part numbers are:

Outlet Flange with machined ring: 41688 (rockauto $38, but check other places, amazon?)
Machined outlet flange: 35747 (rockauto $40)
Vband: 35746 (rockauto $17)

You can view the dimensions in the Walker Exhaust HD accessories catalog online pdf file

I didn't know HF had an AC/DC TIG box. Do you have the model number for it? All I could find is the DC machine. The Miller MIG would do a nice job welding that up cleanly too.

 

I love nos

The only thing i love more than nos, Is a roots blower

 

the vband u listed comes up as a 4inch which is wrong turbo takes a 5 inch clamp

vs racing might have the entire assembly for 40 bucks, i have to send them a picture tommrow and measure the degree of the vband assembly
here a link
http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...out-98233.html

i got mine from a place on ebay for much cheaper ,granted its a 240v machine but i have access to the electrical box at my apt so its nothing for me to wire in a temp 240 line

 

I'm going to hit up a couple semi JYs to try and find some bends and the vbands. Dunno if you have something by you like that. Besides that, RPS should have something that fits that.

 

You are right on the 4 inch being wrong. I grabbed the PN for a T4 setup. The flange PN is correct. I will double check tonight, but the correct vband should be 35806 for the 5" outlet.
If VS Racing can sell the entire setup for $40 then that is a deal. Usually for the SS clamp and flange from someone that machines it themselves ends up around $100.

 

hhmm, possibly from Tadd.
It does arc/dc not ac/dc. It is a straight DC machine. I bet it works quite well. I have used a china CUT50D plasma cutter a fair amount and it has cut up to 1" thick mild steel without grenading.
You could make an extension cord from an electric clothes dryer plug if one is available. Note to self->never rent to a car guy, ha ha.

 

race part solutions has a 5" mild steel flange with stainless steel clamp assembly for 62 bucks
http://www.racepartsolutions.com/products.asp?cat=106

 

My buddy has one of these, the only down side is the scratch start. He did some stuff with it though and overall it was worth the price he said. Personally I'm a MIG fan but hey a good MIG is usually cheaper than a good TIG and I'm here for the performance.

 

All I can find on there is the GT series and BW S-series flange and clamps. I don't see any of the older TV-series stuff. Could you post the part number I could search for on that page?

Also, something doesn't seem right with the Walker catalog. The correct 41655 flange calls out the 35746 vband, but from memory I used the 35806 vband so I need to measure and check some part numbers tonight. Usually that catalog is right so I have to check.

 

VB500C is the number... i dont know where that link takes you, but when i open it up, I see generic v-band assemblies and under the mild steel option, you can select 5" size

Further down the page you have Borg Warner S series flanges and such but I didnt know those turbos had a specific flange type. I thought all were universal v-bands.

 

The TV series is kind of odd. It is different than the GT and S400 series. I the flange is wide on the TV so I am guessing the regular mild 5" vband clamp will be too thin. The vbands are not universal. There are many ways to spec them. If you go to Clampco it shows how to spec them.

http://www.pontiaczone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21535
Supports that 35746 vband is correct and has pictures, but I still think I used the 5.88 inch clamp PN 35806. I will check tonight.

 

I had a problem connecting my downpipe to the MP turbo flange. Vband size on that turbo is thick compared to the flange that goes on the downpipe. I just cut my clamp channel in half to allow for that thickflange to fit into the rest of the clamp and it worked just fine.

 

There were a few sellers on ebay selling the correct MP T70 outlet flange and vband. I think it was $30 bucks total and didn't need any mods. I will check that tonight too.

 

i was really trying not to cut up anything on this car but in order to fit the downpipe i have to notch the passenger side strut tower.

this was a quick measure job but ill actually have to notch it about 3/4 of an inch higher then the red tape,once i cut it out ill use 1/16th or 1/8th inch plate to back it back in

 

i used one of the 3" vband kits from http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/ when i had my mpt70 and i didnt have any problems with the clams or flanges. clamps are strong and good quality.

Project89- are you going with a 5" downpipe? is that going to fit behind the passenger side header or are you going to notch the firewall as well?

 

yeah im doing a 5 inch im going to need it for when the vortec headed motor goes in the car. once my mini starter gets here ill see if i have to notch the firewall but i think i can get away without it


this motor is a test motor for now, im going to be ordering up a dart block and building a good 406 , or go right for the 434 stroker kit, vortec heads ,single plane intake converted to efi

 

I feel your pain, I had/have to do something similar w/the passenger side strut tower to fit the T88 in. When do you plan on firing the engine up naturally aspirated, or are you just going to wait until the turbo is plumbed in then go from there....?

 

i already fired the motor with out the ex manifolds just to make sure my ms was hooked up right and i had the dizzy in and wasnt 180 off,just a quick hit the key see if it fired and shut it right off.


afteter that i pulled the harness again to make some changes to it to get it to lay in a lil neater ,the entire turbo system will be plumbed up sometime next week , im just waiting on my t6 flange and 2.5' vbands to show up along with my 5 inch ex tubing

 

no strut tower notching needed :chacha:, did some mockup today and in these pics i havejust over 5 3/8's clearance between the strut tower and log style header.
now i can order up the actual weld els ill be using and weld the header up

 

woot my weld els will be here tomorrow.
anyways now that i am actually able to see the casting number on the block i do not have a sbc 400.

what i have is a 0010 4bolt main .030 over with a factory forged crank
engine code comes back as a 71 truck/bus engine with 255 hp

heads are off atm and so is the oil pan , this motor is getting some good handpicked factory rods that have had arp bolts installed and have been resized and stress relived.

im also goin to throw some pistions in this thing to get a lil bit more compression
flat tops w/4 reliefs and 76cc chambers dont get u a whole lot so im going to step it up to a forged speed pro piston with a .125 dome

with a set of moly rings

im also looking at throwing a cam at it probably oing with something in the 234 duration range with around .515 lift

this thing is going to move when its done woot

 

turbo cleaned up and ready to go
and just got my logs almost done , need to get a 1 5/8's hole saw on monday to drill the holes in the actual log part so i can weld those on

 

Looks good. When I do logs I point the weld els in the direction of the flow into the log. I would have rotated the weld els towards the front of the engine. It is a little more work, but I think the flow direction is worth it.

I think you are better off with the 350ci 010 block than the 400ci block.

 

i wanted to but im working with limited tools so it was easier to ust point them up for now, i have 8 ore weld els to build another header set

 

Great build... pure and beautiful inspiration

 

Just curious, but did you ever finish this thing?

 

Great question

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...-355-twin.html

 

yeah just look in that thread i ended up selling the 76mm turbo and switching to twin 57mm turbos which im switching to twin 61mm units over the winter

so far so good except for blowing up transmissions , and taking out one set of head gaskets

on 8psi of boost the car has more power then u need for the street specially in 1st and 2nd even with a 2:73 rear gear , 3rd gear just flat out pulls untill u hit about 4200 rpms then it blows away the back tires

ive made some runs with it at high boost and its flat out scary on the street even with a good tire on the back

 

I know this is an older post, but I am doing a twin turbo setup on my formula 350 currently a solid 275hp TPI305 temporary motor till my 357 forged motor is done. I was going to buy this set that dumps the turbos towards the front right next to the serpentine belts, may have to remove the passenger side bracket for the serpentine setup in my 89, but I'll just run a shorter belt and barely get it on, by using a socket and ratcheting the alternator to get the belt on. What kind of manifolds are on this motor? Did they go far to the side of the head, then dumped towards the top? I was going to buy a similar kit for mine. Have you run the car at the track since this setup was finished? I'm very interested, thanks

 

I know this is an old post, but how has that twin turbo firebird worked? I saw a different kit from eworld sales, but I like those other turbo headers, I'll just have to mess with the hood, but I also don't wanna do that. Has anyone tried the headers for the turbos that mount the turbos up front, next to the serpentine belt setup?