The tune was free. The Holley 950 is tuned with a laptop.

 

Didn't catch that part of your build thanks.

 

If you are still only running 3" exhaust, that is way small. That's only good for 300hp N/A. I was running a 3" on my DSM. You should be running 3" duals or 4" single. Boosted cars need quite a bit bigger exhaust.

 

..wut

 

Yes, I am running a 3" exhaust. I'm thinking about eliminating the Magnaflow muffler because it makes the car as quiet as stock and maybe trying to see if I can fit a 4" system. There are three big obstacles that will be in the way: right by the strut tower, between the frame and engine, and over the axle. I would have to either size down in those areas or crush the 4" tubing until it clears.

The 300hp limit for 3" seems a bit low. I think around 400-500bhp, you're going to want to step it up. With the First tpi I'm hoping to be over 400rwhp (~500bhp) so I guess I should start planning to go to a 4" exhaust.

 

Something I neglected to notice/mention is that your power rolls off right where the engine would N/A. Short of doing something crazy with the turbo sizing this is expected. It's not like a centrifugal supercharger which has a non-linear RPM based boost curve where you gain power as the RPMs climb. That means that after spooling happens the curve will (mostly) look like what it would N/A.

The other options are other RPM based issues such as spark blow out or valve float, but it seems odd at that low of RPM. If you could get the power to climb another 1000 RPM up you'd be in a lot better shape overall. Pull the base, siamese the ports throw it back on see what happens. I bet you'll be doing way better in the power department. With what you have there I'd bet the base is a major choke point.

 

Don't worry, the intake will be flowing much better very soon.

Today I finally started the First TPI swap. I removed the old tpi intake and it's no turning back now.



I have to figure out how I'm going to run the new fuel lines. Previously I had everything coming from the back of the fuel rail and I plan to stick with that. I bought an Aeromotive FPR and I'm not sure where to place it. Would it be ok to mount it right next to the wiper motor, because I think with the small cap distributor it can fit there?

Speaking of the distributor, I discovered damage to the top of the cap. What would cause this and what would be the effects? The car didn't seem to run any different.

 

Spark from coil and/or ignition box too hot or just a crappy cap/rotor combo?

 

TTT for the new year. Any progress?

 

Here are some pictures showing the latest progress. I had to redo the oil feed for the turbo since the First intake base wouldn't clear the original fitting.



Then I was able to install the base to the engine.



Right now I'm working on modifying the fuel system with the remote mount FPR. Also, I really liked the look of the polished stock tpi runners and plenum, so I spent an entire day sanding and polishing the First runners and plenum.

 

I have no experience with F-body turbo cars, but I have built 3 DSM's running good numbers. I used to run a MBC but went to a Blitz D-SBC (dual solinoid boost controller) and my turbo spooled almost instantly compared to running the MBC and it would peak and hold. No more bleeding off either.

Sounds like you are on the right track. I love how so many people have advice about stuff they have never done. Keep it up.

 

With the nice weather this week, I had some motivation to continue working on the new intake install. I replaced the cap and rotor and dropped the distributor back in. Then, I installed the new fuel rails and fpr. I had a few gas leaks when I primed the system, but that was due to old o-rings. After fitting up some new o-rings there are no more leaks. Here's the latest progress:

 

A single 3" can support more than 300whp. The rule of thumb Ive heard is closer to 550.

 

Another update: The sst fuel rails still had a small leak and since the material was very thin in that area I just decided to buy a set of the extruded aluminum rails. Here they are mounted and I’m happy to say leak free!



Next I was able to bolt the runners up. I had to grind the two flanges around the tapped holes since there was some interference between them and the rails.



Here it is with the plenum mounted.



I ran into another issue when I topped off the engine coolant. I noticed a steady leak from under the car and thought that the seal between the base and heads was leaking. After removing the plenum and loosening the runners, I was able to see the problem. The front passenger side runner bolt hole was tapped all the way through to the coolant passage. I removed that bottom screw, applied silicone, and tightened it back up. Hopefully that solves the coolant leakage.

Finally here is the latest with the custom throttle body spacer and Holley 58mm TB mounted. I had to trim some more of the alternator bracket to clear the IAC sensor. Today I am drilling the side plate on the plenum to mount the throttle cable bracket. It's ready to be fired up for the first time with the new intake!

 

LOL! i have a single 3in exhaust on my car. It makes slightly more power than 300hp.

 

Hahaha!

 

haha well you are leaving some power on the table. Goodluck with that.

http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how...pipe-diameter/

 

talk to the turbo buick guys who are running single 3" making over 500 hp.

 

that table is so far off its not even funny

 

Do you believe everything you read on the internet? Untill you have actually numbers you can prove, i would keep your opionons to yourself cause your making yourself look bad. When there are turbo's capable of 1000hp with a single 3in outlet, how do you explain?

 

Haha just trying to help you dumb ****ing rednecks. Do what you want. I've been there.

 

^ your apparently have not been there...