Kurtis2short

I'm running a stock 4 bolt 2 piece rear main seal 454 block factory forged 3.76 crank will be running a 6.385 length forged rod thE pistons I'm still haven't bought depending on the boost or spray I'm running a comp 310 cam with a set of dart 320 race series heads full ported to 346 and chambers are 113 manley 2.30 intake and 1.90 valves 1.7 and 1.8 roller rockers and my intake is a new team g ported to match intake rectangle port its been taped for direct port nitrous injection I have a fogged kit laying around I was gonna just run a progressive shot up to 500 but I was this about running 200 shot and running a single 76 mm turbo as well do u guys think the stock block can handle it and if I bore it .60 over its a 445 cubic I case u guys were wondering and I plan on spinning it to 7500 rpms and boost I was thinking 12 to 15 pounds or should I just stick with a whole lot of spray and scrap the turbo idea

85z28kid

iTrader: (7)

Personally I'd go turbo but that's me. Turbos hp is always there when you want it.

You won't need any spray on your motor with 15# of boost. I'm guessing you've never driven a big hp setup like you're talking about building.

IMO you'll have plenty enough motor for just street if it's a street car.

Kurtis2short

I've always been a all motor big block guy never have gotten into power adders but lots face it the technology on designing the ls1 it's just a monster u can put a 4 in stroke in a ls1 just like a bbc 454 and rev a lot quicker with a third less off the weight so I'm think big bore short stroke big blocks rev as quicker is quicker but I think a power adder can make the great equalizer I have the nitrous fogger already and u can hide nitrous u can't really hide a turbo

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

what is this going in? you are talking about enough power to run 7s.

project89

iTrader: (1)

depending on the internals u can spray a decent bit of n20 ontop of the boost

im spraying my 355sbc with twin turbos with a 100 shot
25shot 1st stage to get out of the hole
2nd stage comes on in high gear and is a 75 shot

the first shot stays on the entire lenght of the track

havent had it at the track just yet but i have sprayed it on the street with 15 pounds of boost.

the plan is to run around 23-26 pounds of boost on it when its all said and done

Kurtis2short

It's going in a 1988 Pontiac firebird the set up is a 4th gen rear end fully built eaton posi jegs axles ultimate cover and braces with lake wood traction bars founders pantos bar to fit 3 inch duals a t56 that's been viper spec'd dual fiction clutch for a 1000 horsepower up front I have a edel 3 point brace wonder bar and this Friday I will be ordering a umi k member and I have 2 inch lowering springs all the way around koni yellow shocks 6 in fiber glass cowl hood 4 core aluminum radiator be cool I think I'll leave the factory arms in and ls1 brakes all the way around

project89

iTrader: (1)

4thgen rear will never survive behind a stick with that kind of power, better look into a strange s60 or a 9 inch

dont waste ur money on the 4thgen rear

Kurtis2short

Well the rear end has been fully built welded and braced so the axle tubes don't walk that's one of the huge weak points yes 10 bolts have a bad wrap but if built right they can hold quite a bit and u still can keep the weight down there was a article in hot rod mag or gm tech can remember which that had the build sheet so I just set it up like they did but added more bracing to help with the flexing and I have a bmR adjustable torque arm

project89

iTrader: (1)

no amount of bracing and parts can make the tiny 7.5 7 5/8's ring and pinion any stronger.

behind an auto with a turbo it would survive a lil bit,given no transbrake launches etc

same setup with a stick would shatter it after a few launches

a properly built big block with that much n20 or 15 psi of boost will destroy that tiny ring and pinion just from the amount of tq that motor will make

sell that rear to somone on here that needs an upgraded stocker that wont break it and get a 9inch or s60 now, either way i will end up changing the rear out if u build anything close to what ur first post suggests u are

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

imo, this car will be slow, even with a 500 shot. build the car/chassis for a 1200hp engine, THEN build your 1200hp engine.

Kurtis2short

I have sub frame connectors on the car now and was thinking of a 6 point roll cage so my I ask where do u think the weak point is in my chassis the 10 bolt built sheet that I went off off said he should up to around 900 horsepower The guy that helped me has a 540 bbc turbo'd in his monte Carlo with a 10 bolt sw set up and lifts everytime he lunches and it's held

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

why spend all that money trying to make 900+hp when you can go just as fast or faster with 500hp?
car comes first, then motor. you can build a nice car with all the suspension stuff, make it nice and light as well as safe with the proper cage. stick a 600hp engine in it and go 9's.

we went 6.41 in the 1/8 with a 4th gen 10 bolt. 1.40ish 60'. had welded spider gears and it didnt hit very hard on the bottle.

Kurtis2short

None of my suspension is stock or will be stock but the arms like I said there's subframe connectors already welded and and I already have the 10 bolt built in the car I had inland build b a custom made steel drive shaft that'll hold up im think about the 6 point cage just to add just that little but more but ive shaved a lot if weight room the heater core out the bumper crash plastics etc fiber glass hood and I'm ordering a k mber Friday to shave a little more and more clearance so I'm confused as far as the suspension it's all been changed and strengthen so I can't see a week point other then the cage I have the motor build and will be putting in it after I get the k member in and the front suspension together. I even have a Spohn front end rebuild kit and there sway bars that's why I'm asking on to add a turbo with the nitrous or not to there's guys running turbos wig a low shot of nitrous but another guy pointed out in a private emai on the streets u can hide a nitrous set up u can't hide the whistle of a turbo so I think I'll just do the full shot is there something on my chassis I forgotten about ?

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

that itty bitty 10 bolt ring gear will fall apart..i have a stack of them i could show you. been beating on them for over 20 years..they Fall apart

Kurtis2short

Well I won't be hitting the nitrous much it's more of weekend warrior to chase a vette or a rustang down itlk be just all motor most of the time

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

all motor on the street will maybe be ok. a built bbc with a 500 shot will not work on the street with a promod chassis. a 1200hp car should have all the control arms, anti-rollbar, front limiters, nice shocks all around, kmember, and some other stuff im leaving out. and a 10 point cage, at least.

i would say a decent bbc n/a would be more than enough for the street, and probably will break the 10 bolt after awhile anyways.

Drac0nic

A TV8101 on big ovals with 468 CID is more than enough to go deep into the 9s much less some big Dart heads. BBC+turbo is almost assuredly big power unless you're running peanut ports even then I bet it'd still move pretty damn decently.

S60 or 9" should be at the top of your list, the trans should be pretty decent. I'd still rather do a turbo or if you don't a progressive/multi stage setup to keep that trans healthy.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I"m not to familiar with stock bbc castings HP limitations but a GOOD intake/headed solid roller pump gas 468 should be a 700-750hp motor all motor without too much difficulty. Not sure how much spray you will want to hit it with on factory block but another 250-300 hit in a 2 stage system should put you well into the 8's.

I wouldnt turbo and spray.... do one or the other. A single 76 is abit small for that motor. I'd run an 88mm atleast, good for 1000-1100hp without too much effort on good heads/intake/cam.

Kurtis2short

Which brand of k member Spohn or umi I've read miss matched feelings on the Spohn from the engine not sitting straight to clearance issues anyone had those problems with the umi

vortec350s10

I just broke my "fully welded 28 spline Richmond geared, stud girdled cover 10 bolt" two nights ago with a very mild small block with a turbo. And this is with an automatic not even getting any boost going till the end of first gear only running 1.85 60fts. I thought it was holding strong and it would last me a year or so when I planned to upgrade but that's out the window. With a big block I wouldn't even think of trying it. Sell it before you wreck it or the only thing you'll get out of it are parts you can hang on the garage wall to show your buddies when they come over for a beer.
I agree with what these guys are saying, build the car well and go 9's with a simpler and more reliable engine at least at first.

project89

iTrader: (1)

the best 10 bolt is the one u dont spend money on, this way when it blows up ur not out any money

The_Punisher454

454 block +.060 with 3.76 stroke (427, 396, 366 crank) = 439"
just do the turbo, forget the nitrous. To run high 9's with turbo you can get away with large ovals like 049's and spend that head money on a good 9".

92 BBC Z

Let's see it. The car I mean, any pic's of your project?

Kurtis2short

I get into town next Friday and I'll take some pics of everything

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

I had every part they made to make my 10 bolt hold up..every thing!
the 7.5 10 bolt pinon gear lets go with anything better then 400 ft lbs
and gears under 3.90/4.10. it's like there made out of glass.i could brake it anytime i wanted to!

save up the cash, about $2200, and drop a 9" in the car, Bolt in.
locker with what ever gears you like.pick the axl splines ya want, the works.. seems like a lot of money..but it well spent. never having to worry about the rear end Letting go.no it's Fun to see how big and sticky of a tire i can get under the car! 12.5x29x15 for now looking at a set of the 325x50x15s nexed lol

when one lets go in the worst way(at a 100mph) it can also take out your tranny & T Convrtr and U Joints. ask me how I know