After a 6 month hiatus I decided it's time to get this project up and running. Still have a way to go and I ran into a couple snags but nothing major.



Pretty tight on the master & prop valve, still need to do some convincing to get enough clearance for the prop valve.




The passenger side downpipe is going to be a tight snakey bastard around the starter.


Luckily the driver side is easy.


Oil drainback was simple.


Still waiting on a few silicone connectors and I need to plumb the intercooler without cutting holes in everything but I think I can do it by just moving the radiator back 2" and adding shrouds. Oppinions on the 45* angle of the center section? I don't think it matters because there's 2 1/2" from the center section exit to the valvecover so I can't imagine backup being a problem.

 

Here it sits while I wait for correct parts...


Headers & downpipes wrapped.




Intercooler tucked away.

 

Well here's 99% done. Just need to put together some air boxes to connect from the tpi-style airbox's base to each turbo and it's ready for a cruse.


Intercooler routing.


Passerger side.


The rearmost plug wires are resting on the downpipe. Idk if this will be a problem but I might grab some plug jackets incase.

 

move the drains to the oilpan u do not want to run those on that muh of an angle specially being ebay turbos

and dont use those banjo fittings for oil feeds they will not stay tight and they will leak everywere

 

Ok moving the drain then... I've heard up to 30* is acceptable which wouldn't be a strech with some formed 45* hoses on the drainback. What exactly is the prob with the angle? Too much backup on one side of the housing or the other?

 

Im suscribed. I always want to learn more!

 

its something about how the oil goes threw the housing and also the drianback on the one side

i belive the oil drian slots on the bearings are on the bottom so when u rotate the housing the slots/holes will be moved to a higher level allowing more oil to stay in the catridge

i had a catridge i cut apart to se ehow the oil and seals work, and honestly i dont think it would hurt it on a real turbo, but there are some differences in the cheap ebay chra's vs real garrett and brand name ones

real garret ones have oiling groves around the bearing were as the cheap ones dont they just have a hole on the top and bottom of the bearing when the housing is oriented the correct way

the garrets have the same hole but also a grove about 1/4 way around form the feed and drian holes

 

btw the prop valve should be fine, the downpipe on my tt iroc is closer then that, just heatwrap it

 

I'm putting better bearings in these anyway so maybe I'll just add my own channels incase. BTW when you had surge with your motor did you pin down the exact cause?

 

never did figure out what was causing the one turbo to surge, even had the turbos checked out and they were fine ,just went back to a single turbo

i wouldnt worry about the bearings in those turbos, run them and if they fail grab a pair of 118$ 57mm turbos like im using on my iroc and fasteddi is using on his 3.1, think greencamaro grabbed one for his 3.1 as well

 

Anyone have bad experience with header wrap? Most of the failures I've seen are from lousy header materials or not painting the headers and not the wrap itself. Supposedly it can overheat the headers leading to cracks or the wrap doesn't allow enough expansion blah blah blah... ready to wrap these. Other properly done installs look brand new after removing the wrap. Opinions?

 

use the header wrap just install it properly.most of the stuff needs to be soaked in a bucket of water before putting it on, and they also sell a silicone or graphite spray to apply to the wrap which keeps out moisture and stops the pipes from rotting under the wrap

 

I've never heard that before. Interesting. I gotta wrap my new setup but instead of the fiberglass composite stuff, I bought the titanium stuff. Hope to stop the fiberglass dust/fibers from spreading around and causing all kinds of itchy feelings.

I had my pipes wrapped for 2 years or so and it does look like it changed the metal alittle on the surface. I did have some minor metal flaking so i'm not sure what it was. I thought it was melted fiberglass on the surface but it was on the inside alittle too. Pipe thickness was still good tho after cutting it down. That was on mild steel.

The wrap on the 409ss downpipes didnt really do anything to it. It got darker in color tho but that may have just been the exhaust heat cycles from the years.

 

i think soaking it in water just makes it wrap tighter to the pipes once it dries out.

i recomend the wrap spray though summit racing sells it it helps to stop the pipes from rotting out from the extra heat and moisture


409 stainless usually turns a dark brown color almost a rusty color even

 

What moisture gets on the outside tho?

And yes my 409's became a brown color. Its getting wrapped again

 

Plenty, driving threw a puddle, or when its raining hell even when its real humid out

 

Oh I dont drive in the rain or even after it just rained and the ground is still a tad wet But it is humid out at times. I was thinking of ceramic coating the headers and just wrapping everything else but I may leave most of the headers unwrapped and just wrap from collector to turbo. I dont wanna wait for ceramic coating but there are a few local shops that may beable to do it.

 

Wrapping these was a pain. Soaked them in a can of paint each until the wrap was wet so they should never rot. Man does this paint dry fast! Even soaked like it was I could still pick them up 1/2 hour later.

 

Hmmm, debating anti surge housings vs just tuning it out w/ the ecm if I get surge... suppose I could take it for a cruise before deciding. PWM wastegates wouldn't be hard to do, already have it set up for the n20 I was using.

 

the antisurge housings on the small ebay turbo housings arent really antisurge housings.

i also have a feeling those turbos are way to big to start with

u should really be using a pair of t4 50 trims
not a pair t3/t4 48 trims

its going to be very laggy and i bet those turbos will be surging like hell

a pair of those turbos will do 800-950 hp way way more then u need

 

I was just looking back at the chart you showed me thinking about it... I'm taking it to 20 psi once I have a block girdle done & install the 3500 crank so I'd like to have the volume when I need it, but that's still awhile down the road. The flow chart you provided me awhile ago, was that for the ebay turbos or genuine garett stuff?

 

i meant to say t3 50 trims in the post above

i thinkt he chart i gave u was a garrett chart for that spec turbo, its been a while so i dont rember exactly what chart i gave ya

the ebay stuff if u can find the exact chart for the garrett it was copied off of will typically match the ebay stuff is just a lil less efficiant

 

This is the chart. It will be near the surge line at low speed but I don't think I'll be able to make enough pressure below 3500rpm for it to be a problem. The more I look at it the less worried I am, above 3500 it will have no problem ingesting what they can put out with this cam & heads.

 

that maps a lil big a more acurate map woudl be the 46 trim map

u prolly wont see any boost in first gear unless ur going to around 7k rpms

 

1-2 shift @ 7500 so maybe. I might fog a little n20 at the track just for cooling so I'll probably see full pressure in 1st.

 

Intercooler is finding it's way home but I need to do some hacking anyway, then it's wait for the last parts in the mail.

 

what size intercooler did u get

the 32x16x4's fit nicely in the nose of the camaro

 

23x7x3.5 2 in 1 out. I want it as far back as possible, no obnoxious shiny thing sticking out behind the grille. This fits pretty well where the a/c condenser was.

 

thats the smae plce i mounted my big intercooler, cant see it sticking out unles su stick ur face right upto the grill.

i do wish i would have bought the same sytle one u did though woudl have simplified my pipe routing on the iroc.

but then again i scored mine with a complete set of 3inch piping a ton of 3 inch couplers including some 90*'s and 45*'s + all the tbolt clamps and a ton of 2.5 inch piping for 100 bucks so i cant complain

 

Sigh. My reducer elbow isn't reducing.

 

Im anxious to see this build up and running. Twin turbos on a V6 is impressive. She might be laggy like dave said but a little n20 would get you there fast.

 

Me too, waiting for the correct parts to arrive is a bit frustrating.

 

u have an ace hardware or home depot local ? u can get some sewer couplers that will work temporarily for now until u get the right ones

though they only come in striaght ones i belive

 

Ya and I need 2 1/2" to 2" angled reducers. Grrr.

 

siliconeintakes.com

They have 45deg angled reducers 2.5 to 2" in red black blue. They have 90 deg angled reducers in red black blue as well 20 each.

 

The stuff is already on the way, since the company that sent me the wrong parts is in china it would cost more than the parts are worth (by alot!) to return so I'm getting replacements free. Cant say chinese parts are all bad lol.

 

sthe ones that were wrong what are they 2.5 90*'s or 45*'s??


i might need a 90* if u have one ill buy one of those off ya instead of getting one from ebay

ps when buying from ebay check the north america box under location to be sure the person u are buying from is in the usa

 

45*

 

Finally!!!!

 

Got some more pics up of it. As you can see the rear plugwires are resting on the downpipe, can't tell if this is a problem or not. It's ready to start but I still need to finish the airboxes, test some code I wrote, get a solenoid for boost control and tidy up some odds & ends.

 

It can get pretty hot. I've melted some wires like that. Get some of those spark plug boot insulators. They are 6-8" long or so, and will protect the plugs from direct contact heat.

 

This isn't on the V6 Board? Shocking...

Subscribed.

 

Actually I had a link, must be buried by now.

 

What kind of number are you hoping for? and what will you be running $59?

 

375-ish hp @ 6psi and when I decide to really wring it out with 20psi somewhere in the neighborhood of 700+. I'm using my own version of $6E called PA6E (power adder 6E). I still have alot of code to write for it but the basics are ironed out.

Here's the old pump next to the new one. Looks like a pringles can next to a tube of toothpaste lol.

 

Link to it running again. Ahh the smell of header paint. Cough cough!

 

Very cool build, I'll be keeping my eye on it, sound good by the way.

 

Little louder than expected but I'm happy with the exhaust note. Definately one of the better sounding v6's out there.

 

nice man cant watch the video right now since my internet is down and im using my cellphone tethered to my laptop to connect ill have to watch it later

but i wouldnt plumb those turbos into the stock airbox for a single turbo it would be fine but with both those turbos at high boost i dont think there is enough filter area to get the kind of flow u would need for high power

easy way to test this though would be to install a vacum gauge into airfilter box behind the filters and see if it starts to pull a vacum if it does u will knwo the filters are to restrictive


generally with that side turbo u will need a 4-6inch cone filter to be able to pass enough air without restriction on each turbo i dont think the stockers/kn's have enough area to pass that much airflow

 

btw what pump is that ?? i can get u vette zr-1 pumps for about 15 bucks each, im running 3 of those on my twin turbo iroc they have a flow rating of 190-just over 200lph each .

let me now if u want the info on those pumps and ill pm ya a link