Ik most people won't agree but I got the headers off eBay for like 275 after shipping there stainless steel and I got the intercooler off eBay also it's 30x11x3 I'm still trying to decide the best place to put it

 

im wondering if you could help me find the rpm rang for the turbos the specs on them are Compressor:
•Trim: 59
•Inducer: 56.2
•Exducer:72.9
•A/R: 0.70
Turbine:
•Trim: 62
•Inducer: 73.9
•Exducer: 58.3
•A/R: 0.84
I don't really understand all that but I got the triple 12 cam and ls2 intake I just wanna know when ill start to spool I was thinking going with a 3k stall but I wanna be able to start spooling on the brake when I go to the track I would like to leave under boost but idk if that's the goal or not lol

 

Tune will help spool but that setup should be alive by 3000. My friends twin 62-1's where lit by then on a 5.3. Started spoolin late 2000's rpm with a smaller housing. My 60's with similar turbine but .68 ar were spooled in the low 3000 range

 

Ok sweet that is about were I wanna be on the rpm range I plan to run a 3 bar map sensor I wanna more then 15 psi in the future

 

im looking at getting a new map senor mine broke and im wondering should I just get a 3 bar and im still running the maf

 

Delete maf. Diy autotune 3 bar map and pigtail. 3 bar operating system

 

What do you mean 3 pig tell operating system and won't not have a maf be a prob? We have a lot of temp changes here in Oklahoma

 

3 bar map operating system tune. That will delete the maf and no, it wont be a big deal in temp swings. There are other control parameters that can compensate but in general i've never seen my tunes vary that much from 30's deg to 90's deg

 

Ok so why do people delete the maf

 

MAFs max out around the 450-500whp range. However once you max them you can tune using PE etc. I did this on my old 383 LT1 74mm...I was making 584whp with a maf. Never could get a tune dialed in though.

My 370 LS I went straight to SD 2 bar, as I will on my current 87.

Jay

 

Maf is just sorta not needed in FI. You can run one but you gotta add it into your charge piping. Easiest to delete and run straight pipe to tb

 

Ok gotcha I'll hsve to do a search so won't I need to add the intake air temp sensor?

 

You will still need a sensor. Run fbody operating system, the iat sensor is separate from the maf

The tune will use the iat for fuel and timing changes for different air conditions to a point but its reallly needed for boost tuning. You add safety to the tune by pulling timing and richening up fuel when iat gets to hot

 

Ohh ok gotcha well when I get out of class I'm going to do some reading over sd but all I really need to do is delete maf and the tuner do all his tunes from the map sensor

 

Yup

 

Hey guys im trying to decied what would be better to go with im about to order more parts in the next day or 2 my question is what should I go with arp head bolts or studs and if studs could I get a link to the right ones my block is an 05 5.3

 

Hey guys I'm home from college I got my cam in and other goodies I been installing what I can I gotta order some more stuff

 

Clever place for the intercooler!

 

Go with bolts man.they almost as strong and are a lot better if u ever have to pull a head off with engine in car .. studs also tend to leak if not installed perfectly ... also.I had rocker arm Interference with my head studs

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

 

Iv thought about the head bolts it's so much cheaper to do but I don't wanna go to cheap

 

Running out of stuff todo tell I get money for parts