anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Cut them out and replace them with new fusable links to a power distribution block.

I mounted mine on the firewall.

Factory wiring on all these cars is garbage. I'm having an issue on my LT1 car now as well. When it came to wiring and electronics, GM failed lol.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

RBob was telling me essentially the same thing, he gave me a great alternative, and I'll definitely get to it my next day off this week. Some dude in a White C6 keeps driving by who lives locally, thing sounds mean and revs fast af, so it's helping to push me to get the GTA done. This board has been slow. I still have my 17" 315 MT drag radials, just not sure if they will fit my 17" TT2 rims (9.5" wide), was thinking about having a local shop extend the rear rims out to 11"...

- Rob

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I removed all fusible links from my car and replaced with this device...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post6019718

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

MT does not recommend mounting on a narrow wheel. The construction of a drag radial prefers to be stretched on the rim.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Have been busy AF, but I finally have some time to pull the dust cover off of the GTA, and give it some time. Left off with very bad popping in the exhaust that I was diagnosing with RBob, thought maybe an injector was dumping fuel, but then a compression test showed a very low reading on cylinder one; so either valves, head gasket, or rings. Was forced to pull the heads so it's down to the short block again. Cometic gaskets still look good believe it or not, but you never know with them after reusing them a few times, so I ordered new head gaskets from Advanced Auto cuz I'd hate to use the Cometics again, even with copper spray. The valves were then tested, and sure enough cylinder one is suffering from a bent valve, which is a relief because I was not going to replace piston rings for this motor. It's not a need for additional lapping where maybe residue is caught in between the seat, no they are definitely bent, but I have replacement valves from previous 305 builds so it's an easy fix, just a little more lapping with the drill. Also, I think I pretty much had it with the TPI system. Considering a Stealth Ram because injector swaps have been an effin pain in the @ss with the TPI all these years. So yeah, I don't blame any of you guys for ditching it back in the day...

- Rob

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Figured I would share the brake clean fluid test with the thread. I normally go back and forth with RBob, which is who I am referring to in the video when I say the name Bob, and up until today I really thought it was the rings. Even he was suspecting the rings, especially with the oil issue coming from the front seal. Anyways, this is from earlier this morning, I already have the replacement valves, just need to nab some grinding compound to wrap it up...

- Rob

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Was at this most of the day taking breaks in between. Gonna give it a rest because I still have to lap the replacement valves in cylinder number one, but at least the passenger side is done. Yes, I re-used the Cometics, I'm a glutton for punishment, I know lol. Final torque was 90 foot pounds. Didn't want to waste money on gaskets not made for boost, and I'd rather spend that money on getting the injectors refurbished anyway. Too hot today anyway, gonna bang it out when the sun goes down...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Send injectors to eric derr, he’ll do them for 60-65$ i believe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I think number one is toast. I numbered them differently just to see if the real number one comes back as bad. Southbay I think wants twenty bucks an injector to refurbish, I guess this is after testing and if they even need to be rebuilt. The runners look horrible and are all coked up from the valve leak. Should have tested the heads when I first installed them, had every reason to as well.

- Rob

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Injectors came back okay, which surprised me. Anyways, replacement valves installed, bought two new ones from Summit Racing, seven dollars each. Injectors are back home. Only thing I am waiting on is the TPI system. I don't want to re-use it, but then again I don't want to waste money on a Weiand Stealth Ram. Can't find any Chinese replicas for half the price, so I'm thinking just put the TPI system back on now that the injectors have been tested, this way I'll have it fired up and running today. Valves were just lashed, and timing brought to 10* BTDC beforehand...

- Rob

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Injectors are easy to clean if you have an ultrasonic.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Meh, I honestly just pay for those services if they are within reach.

- Rob

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Had a pretty lousy vacation week. Got sick last Tuesday, it kicked in on Wednesday, but went full blown into Friday after taking Nyquil. Ear is still closed, its going on three days now since the closed/stuck eustachian tube, and hopefully antibiotic starts working soon cuz it's annoying AF feeling like you're underwater on dry land, just started taking them too. Anyways, this is an update after the new valves were installed, and with the engine put back together. Idles pretty damn good, but I still hear a miss and am thinking the plugs in general need to be replaced entirely. The number one plug looked like that when I installed it, that's why I mentioned it looks pretty damn good because it maintained its' look and didn't coke up. Gonna make a quick trip to Autozone and go with a set that RBob has recommended, as he'd rather I'd toss the specialty plugs that I normally go with, so I'll give it a try and see what happens. Slow process, I know, crap happens, but once the engine is dialed back in again I'll get that turbo back on asap...

- Rob

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Pulled out the Bosch specialty plugs, in went the Autolites, haven't run Autolites in years. Engine sounds fantastic. Gonna touch up the off idle hit because I want it to SNAP, but that's in the tune. Engine is back to normal. Turbo time after a few dial in's on the street naturally aspirated. Gonna try and get one in in a few minutes...

- Rob

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

did you do a valve job along with the new valve/s?

86CamaroDan

Where did you get that belt gaurd thats on the alternator

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Dig, the only thing I did was lap the new valves in with a power drill spinning them on the valve seat in both directions at half speed. The heads are 416 heads, ported to the max with the valve guides ground all the way down, and they should flow extremely well despite the smaller valves themselves. I once considered opening them up to 1.94", but the machine shop talked me out of it years back because they showed me that the gain wouldn't really be worth it in the end...

Dan, that piece was actually a stock belt guard that came with this original TPI system. When I pulled the AC unit out, the belt needed to be shorter, and the angle of the belt changed because it was now coming from a much lower point towards the alternator. I had to flip that guard upside down to make it work, and luckily the belt cleared. Should be a breeze to make with the metal sheeting. I made the MAP sensor bracket on the passenger side of the upper plenum similarly because I misplaced the original one, and I wasn't about to pay the amount some sellers are asking for it, rare or not...

- Rob

86CamaroDan

Intresting. I need to find one for my car. Radiator hose comes obnosiously close to the alternator fan blades.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Not that much to update fella's, but the car has at least been back on the road. Exhaust is loose because I didn't want to tighten it down all the way (this is the squeaking you hear that the phone picked up), it would just make it all the more difficult to pull the exhaust back off when the turbo goes on again if I tightened the clamps all the way down. Video also cuts out early because of limited storage space. It was very wet out too, not to mention everyone rushing to get to work, so I couldn't really floor it. But yeah, just an update on where the car is in the build. Can't even begin to tell you the number of guys racing to catch me to line up at every freaking damn light lol...

- Rob

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Rob,

I idle around 10-11" of vac, and my power brakes are absolutely amazing.. Like, a finger could push it to the floor and lock up all 4 rotors.

Truthfully, I'd like to firm up the pedal a little bit just because the power assist seems too much.

My vette has a nice hard pedal. I have to really put it through the floor, but then the ABS kicks in.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

That's my only real complaint at this point Joe, the braking. Though I am able to stop in traffic, I want it to feel harder, and immediate. Was talking to another youtuber who lives in Brooklyn about vacuum assist (pump) and he said it takes a getting used to, but works great. I do know that when the turbo goes back on the exhaust is going to be very quiet again, and the last thing I want to listen to is a noisy electric vacuum pump. But he seems to like it...

- Rob

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

You don't need a vac pump. If the pedal is soft, you have plenty of vacuum.


A stock thirdgen master should be a stepped bore with 'quick take up' to work with the low drag calipers. A few sizes were available. The 1.42" would have the most pedal effort and least travel. The 1.25" would be least pedal effort and most travel.

I'm running an LS1 master (1" bore) which is almost zero effort but a lot of travel to get the same pressure.

I have speedway metric non low drag calipers, but it still requires a lot of travel to fully grab the rotor with the small master.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Joe, so far she is stopping okay, but I am more concerned about multiple pumps in stop and go traffic because that is when she will roll ahead slightly w/no vacuum buildup and when I hit the brake during that for a second or third time, it's bad. Instead of the electric pump, I was considering an aftermarket vacuum ball. Am also working on PE today, as well as smoothing out and re-adjusting my SA table. Started with an LB9 bin, and it's all out of whack for my setup. Very violent pull when PE enables though, it just triggers at the wrong time. Not to mention my timing is only at 30* at wide open throttle so far, gonna bring that up to around 34*...

- Rob

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Hrmm.. Maybe next time I'm in Jersey we can do lunch and I can check it out.

My new employer is in Jersey. How far are you from Morris Plains?


-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Joe you are more than welcome to come and visit!

Morris Plains is about 45 minutes away...

- Rob

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Alright, quick update;

* There is no question I have isolated the leaky oil location up front. It's definitely the seal. At high RPM it pushes out, hits the balancer and sprays a line from left to right. At low RPM, in and out of my driveway, which, if you see in my videos is on an incline, when I back out onto the street (idle RPM), or pull in from the street, I have an oil spill right on the street at the lowest point when the front of the engine is facing downward. It's not the oil pan, it's definitely the seal, or even the balancer, I need to pull it.... again, and give it a thorough inspection...

* Next, I am removing the front Intercooler. If anyone is interested in it let me know, it is a 4" core Intercooler with the 3" inlet and outlet on opposing sides. I decided to keep the battery in the engine bay, and buy the same size Intercooler, but with the inlet and outlet on the passenger side. More than enough room to run my intake tubing that way, and it's more compact for what I am after with this build...

* Once the oil seal or balancer issue is taken care of, I will set the dyno appointment for a naturally aspirated blast. That was the only thing stopping me, because they were very adamant about taking care of any leaks prior to me getting there. Will of course video it for the thread...

- Rob

86CamaroDan

how many lbs of boost are you running?!?!

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Dan, the engine should see around 15 pounds on race gas. Boost first comes in around 2800 - 3000 RPM, the first pound or two will be brought back down to around 30* of timing again from 34*, but then timing will get pulled down in a linear fashion as boost increases, down to 19* by the time 15 pounds of boost is all the way in. The EBL-P4 takes care of that perfectly. Total timing comes in just before boost, then boost comes in conjunction with the stall speed converter... which then makes for the biggest grin known to mankind lol.

- Rob

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I think I want a D1SC instead of going back to the turbo lol. This exhaust sounds sick.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Just a quick blip of the throttle for Joe who is holding back from giving us one lol. Am actually glad I did this for the thread because the build is essentially going exactly where I expected it to go pre-turbo. Datalogs are showing me between 300-320 horsepower based on the fuel being used, and my 1/4 mile analysis is showing me low to mid 13's. This blip wasn't 100% TPS because all I get is tire spin if I do that from a dig, not to mention it's only a 25-mph speed limit on my block, plus I didn't want to pass my driveway lol. But it does hook if I feather it, and 60-mph comes up extremely quick as I lay into it. I also disabled Lanuch Mode, and the SA - PE Adder a few days back. When the turbo is back on, and at 15 pounds of boost pressure, well, let's just wait and see...

- Rob

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Here is a 1/4 throttle blip. Any more and the tires break loose
[Url]
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Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Now that's what I'm talking about! Blower sounds freaking awesome Joe!

- Rob

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Sounds obnoxious lol. It's not bad driving, but with the hood open the screech is a bit much. Car runs good. It was almost 90 degrees yesterday and no issues.

I'm on the fence about how to complete the tune. There is no place I can safely go wide open through the gears. Might have to suck it up and get some dyno time in.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Was talking to RBob about the same thing, didn't want to drive the car around in second gear Learning the VE with the RPM screaming because the exhaust is so damn loud. Was going to smooth it out based on what I seen in the lower to mid VE table... when I just said screw it, and did it the hard way and woke the whole neighborhood up. It's done though, so I am happy. Now will just tune boost from 100-kPa up, and focus on Spark Advance. On the fence about this one's WG control though, thinking standalone, not sure yet. Cannot find anyone on here with an LS1 to race me locally naturally aspirated from a roll on the highway, they'll agree to it at first, but then, well, you know the story lol. Turbo is definitely going on this weekend, NA tuning is done. Car runs perfect...

- Rob

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

My ve table under boost is all set. The MS auto tunes the entire VE table and accel enrichment in a single driving session. It's the "while in boost" stuff that needs fine tuning for best power. Right now I just have it stupid rich to be safe.

I can auto tune "in boost" too, but I'd rather do it in a controlled environment not on the street.

I'm actually kinda impressed with how reliable it is. I figured a .060 over 400 block would run hot as crap. Car stays around 180-190f.

I just wish my new TH350 wasn't a sprinkler.

I noticed my left axle seal is leaking. I rebuilt the rear end and replaced the seals. I'm guessing the axle is pooched and ruining the seal. ugh.

-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Not sure of Joe's area, but mine is very metropolitan. Was looking at Joe's video showing the blip of the throttle, how much stall speed are you running Joe? Years back RBob had explained to me why he avoided allowing for the EBL to VE Learn under boosted kPa, and it makes perfect sense. Tuning for boost is a breeze though,takes but a few minutes with the VE dialed in naturally aspirated...

- Rob

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

It loses traction. It's absolutely impossible to go wide open on the street. I tried.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

3000 stall. It seems like it revs to about 3200-3400 and then gets enough load to get into boost. At 4k the tires are on fire. I got it to 5psi a few times, but any more throttle and it lights the tires on fire.

-- Joe

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

what size rear tires and how old are they?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

245's, about a month? 300 treadwear. very soft.

-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Easiest way would be to just hold the throttle in P/N and allow the MS to Learn the lower kPa portion of the mid through upper VE. You can blend those figures into the higher areas as close as you can from 70-100 kPa just as a reference point, then pull the intake tube from the throttle body and go out onto the highway for a few pulls and Learns and let the MS Learn the rest of the upper kPa portion of the VE table. If you're still getting boost in P/N, then pull the intake from the throttle body entirely.That should do the trick for under 100-kPa...

- Rob

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

No you're right Justin, I just looked at what he wrote and I misunderstood Joe, I thought he was having trouble out of boost to fine tune the VE, but it's in boost he's having trouble with because of location and tire spin. Now I see where you guys were going with tires, and I agree, Joe you need more tire. Even mine are currently 275 out back for the street. If you're running 16" rims, ask Diggler to sell you his 295 MT's, they would be perfect...

- Rob

86CamaroDan

Ive never had luck with auto tune. EVER. i refuse to use it. It always **** up my tune worse than it was.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Weird. Always works fantastic for me.

Do you have closed loop enabled or do you just use your wideband as a logging/tuning aid?

-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

86CamaroDan

Currently i do, and it stays within 5% of its current state.
I havent even tried autotune over the last 2 or so years.
i would shut ego off, and it would add fuel, like keep adding tons and tons of fuel. Try it again the next day and it would pull fuel everywhere. Got so fustrated with it i stopped using it.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Costly tires, but I just ordered a set of 305/45/17 ET Streets from MT...

Justin, I am not sure who was using the EBL with your experience, so I cannot comment as an expanded range will cause that if the temperature window is constantly fluctuating too widely in the Learning parameters. My VE table looks like a 45* bed sheet lol...

- Rob