Just did my kitchen, bathroom, baby room and hallway, down to the studs with new electrical/foam insulation, sheetrock, new cabinets/appliances, large tile flooring in kitchen and bathroom and laminate on 2nd floor etc. Took me longer than 1 month lol... unless you work faster than 1-3 normal people it will more than likely take longer than 1 month. Did the granite tops too... love them. Good luck!

oh and good luck with the car too lol.

 

This turned into a nightmare. I should have just tore the whole structure down and re-framed it. The walls are not plumb or square, so I've had to shim/fur every stud before drywalling. (otherwise the cabinets would be quite goofy).

Electrical and plumbing are done, ceiling is done, insulation done. Just gotta drywall and mud this week then I can play with my cars and boats again.



Back to topic, I'm starting to wonder if the J-trim is a little too big for the combo. I wonder if I should trade it for a T-trim.

-- Joe

 

send it to me ill let ya know for sure

 

How much you got in your paypal account ?

I still think it's too big. It would be the right blower for a 1000+ hp combo. My target is 600 with this 2 bolt main 400. I can pulley it way down, but I wonder if that's just plain silly.

-- Joe

 

enough!!!

compound the super charger with the turbo maybe lol

 

Sounds good. buy it. haha.

I think a T-trim would be better for my build. You guys wanna run 8s in the 1/4, that's cool. That's too fast for me.

-- Joe

 

I think you should just run it since you have set it up in the car. Enjoy the car a little bit

 

Well I have not finished the brackets. The physical dimensions of the head unit are really large vs a t-trim. I could probably still make enough power with the t-trim to break the block without the dimensional issues.

-- Joe

 

just keep the one u have and pully it down , if u get rid of the big one now u will regret it later when u do want to build something that can handle more power

 

I am with them. Finish it with what ya got and enjoy it. The thing about building stuff is that second guessing is always a factor. If ya go big you always have room for smaller............but who ever goes smaller in the long run. It will bolt right on to a bigger engine later, and someone else can do 8's with it.

 

I would trade you, but that blower turns the wrong way for me and won't fit my brackets.

 

It might be too big for your brackets, but it should turn the same way ??

You have the pulley facing the radiator right?

-- Joe

 

yes, pulley faces the radiator, so it is a clockwise rotation

 

Yup. Same thing I have. The case is huge though on the J-trim. I didn't want to try and order the s/t-trim brackets and find out that it didn't fit (and not be able to return them).

-- Joe

 

I decided to let it go. I have no desire to build something that's too fast for me to run at the track, and as I'm getting older I'm losing interest in race cars and more interested in collector cars (Corvettes, 30s fords, etc).

I bought a T-Trim from 89gta383, which seems like it fits my L31 vortech brackets (passenger side mount). With only minor denting of the wheel well.

Right now I have a 6" crank pulley and 3.33" blower pulley, 10 rib. I have the air-water intercooler. If I can get a reliable (as in I could go on a 4 hour cruise if I wanted to without coming back on a flat bed) 600+ hp out of it, and trap 120+ mph I'll be more than pleased with the car.

The J trim is just a huge blower, and even mounting it was a choir. Under driving it didn't make much sense. The T-Trim flows only a few hundred CFM shy of the J trim but does it in a smaller package.

-- Joe

 

You're almost, if not already, three quarters of the way there with just displacement. The tuning ability will honestly dictate reliability.

 

Tuning is straight forward, but stuff like cooling, fittings coming loose, etc.

I suspect the SWP + 3 core alum radiator should cool the motor fine, but 400s are sometimes problematic. I do have steam holes in the heads.

I've got about another week on my kitchen, then I can concentrate my weekends in the shop. I'd really like to drive the car this summer so hopefully it won't have any gremlins.

-- Joe

 

I made 480 to the wheels with that blower at 7.5 lbs with a slipping belt and the wrong cam, running out of fuel on the dyno. You should make 600+ easy with 10 lbs. That was using the 3.47 blower and 7.8 crank pullies at 6000 rpm which is 46,530 blower speed. Not sure how high you plan on spinning the motor, but the 6 inch crank will get you 37k blower speed at 6k. Might need the 7 or 7.8 crank pulley. Look for one on ebay just in case.

 

I'm probably going to need to go with a 7" crank pulley, if so I may go cog.

Here is the T-trim on the L31 brackets. I need to either give the inner fender a whack with a BFH, or re-drill the mount plate like you did for your carb brackets.

-- Joe

 

This threads making me so egar to get my V3 in the next few days. I cant wait to see your car on the move!

 

Vortech is really the way to go. I had a A Trim, then an S trim years ago and it was a great combo.

I had a Procharger P1SC for a little while and it was just a hair dryer.

The Turbo is cool, but just too much hot piping burning everything up.

-- Joe

 

Meh, I've gotten so used to the turbo's heat it doesn't even bother me anymore...

Cut/shorten that damn heater core hose to the manifold/waterpump, it's driving me crazy seeing it like that lol...

 

I'm trying to figure out what to do with that. That's the supply to the heater core out of the manifold. The return goes to the radiator.

I'd like to get rid of both of them, but I need heat. But they are both in a crappy place. Any suggestions?

No water ports on the rear of the manifold.

-- Joe

 

I know I pulled my pictures of my build, but I drilled/tapped for coolant fittings in the back of the iron heads. I have not experienced any overheating, nor any heater core leaks, and I have been putting the engine through its' paces since I finished the build...

In your case though, I would run a steel tube of the same diameter of the hose going to the radiator the entire length of the frame rail, securing it with brackets of course, then attach the hoses on the heater core side and the radiator side with shorter lines. You can even paint the steel tube the same color of the body so you won't even see it. The one leading to the manifold though I would just target an area on the back of the engine side and drill and tap for it. Napa has the right size taps for the job...

 

Thats good to know! Did you run a intercooler in the S trim? Where did you mount the IAT sensor?
I feel like a little kid again. Everytime the UPS guy at my work shows up im jumping at the door........ only too find out its paper towels

 

Initially, I did not run an intercooler with the S-Trim. I ran somewhere north of 12psi boost (8" crank pulley, 3.33 blower pulley) on a 355 and made 565 flywheel hp. Car trapped 120mph at 3650lbs.

I ran that car a few seasons until a fueling issue, too much timing, etc detonated two pistons.

The next build I ran a FMIC, alum heads, 358 cubic inches. The intercooler actually slowed it down quite a bit. It barely made 8psi.

I think I'm going to run my air/water intercooler on the T-Trim, although a lot of people do run them without intercoolers - they are very efficient blowers. The Air/air intercooler is just too much plumbing and too much restriction.

-- Joe

 

So here is what is going to be the blower plate. 3/8" steel. Bolts to the head adapter/spacer at 3 bolt holes. Should be strong enough. Now I wonder how long it will take to cut this out on my bandsaw..

-- Joe

 

Looks like fun sir. I'm sure you'll be there cutting it for a little while.

 

Yup!

I mocked it up with the other plate I had, but it only bolted on with 2 bolts so I figure might as well make a bigger plate so it is stronger.

I need to find some 3/8" grade 8 studs. fastenal doesn't appear to have studs longer than 3 1/2"..

-- Joe

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-th...-rods/=12jtgnv

 

You rock!

-- Joe

 

So I cut out the plate today. Bolted it up, and it looks pretty good. It's much stronger than the L31 plate and spacer I was using. I'm using a marine spacer, and the plate is 3/8" steel. Attaches to head.

I gotta stick my crank pulley spacer in the lathe and take .340 off of it, and it should be ready to rock.


I'm still on the fence about intercooler, meth, etc. I've got the blower clocked to the passenger fender. I was going to run my air/water intercooler in the battery tray but it's a tight fit.

-- Joe

 

Good to hear. I'm hoping I can fit 3" IC piping between the fender the battery tray but from what I've read it might not. Had to slide the battery over to make room but I'm on the driver side.

 

When I ran the FMIC on the Procharger I had 3" piping.

http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/p...s/intercooler/

Problem with the firebird is just not enough airflow through the cooler.

-- Joe

 

Theres an aw intervooler on ebay thats identical to mine. Its polished yuck but it will fit under the stock hook and has a nokt in flange for bov

 

Can you PM me a link to it?

The one I have looks like this:



-- Joe

 

That looks pretty close to what I want to do. Except flipped. My issue is that you didn't run the piping out of the SC through that tiny hold where the horns are located and then down to the IC. Thats how I want to do it but on the driver side next to the battery. I verified I can fit the pip past the battery but no idea how to get the bends to fit without hitting the fender or the battery tray lip. I won't know till I get everything friday but I hope it will work.

 

I'm pretty happy with the way this came out. Here is some pictures of the finished bracket.

I do need to relocate my heater hoses somehow.

The only question now is what to do with the intercooler. It doesn't quite fit on top of the battery tray, but maybe if I cut the bottom of the tray out and stick it half way through..

-- Joe

 

I used a cheap chinese IC piping kit that I got for like $100, which limited my bends. This is before I got my tig, so I couldn't weld aluminum at the time. So I went down the center of both battery trays.

I still have the IC and all the piping, but the Formula nose just doesn't allow enough direct airflow, and I have my transmission cooler in front of the radiator so I don't think the spall fans can pull the air through all 3.

One of the reasons the air/water works better for me (I hope!) is that I can run another heat exchanger next to my transmission cooler, so I'm only sucking air through two things. I might even end up adding a 8-10" pusher fan on the other side.

-- Joe

 

So, bracket is completed and painted. My pulley alignment is off by about .030" so I need some shims for the blower pulley.

Oil feed and oil drain done. Now I just need to work on the plumbing/intercooler.

-- Joe

 

Looking good! Just finished my FMIC. Waiting on my TB spacer. Mine was also very close to the shock tower but I run solid mounts and even with 1/8" clearance it hasn't touched!

 

I agree. My cheap 173$ IC and piping kit limited me big time so I had to cut the U bends up and I bought some bellow couplers so it doesn't have to line up perfect. I haven't learned how to TIG aluminum yet but I'm going to learn!

Agree on air flow. I too run a trans cooler in front and it's a massive one from a ford super duty about 27"x17"X11" so it's the size of my radiator core. I have lowered my rad and such 1.5" from stock and moved it closer to front of the car. I'm not super worried about how efficient it is as its not my only form of cooling but if it takes the edge off my cruising IATS and when boost kicks on and the meth engages then I'm happy and it doesn't cause me to over heat. I've been running 178 on the street and 165 on the highway so we'll see how it does. Just need to pressure test the whole system and wait for the TB spacer.

What are you planning to do for a water/fluid container? How much boost are you planning and expected HP?

 

So this where Joes been hanging out. Nice build. Good choice on swapping the intake and smaller head unit. I like the water / air idea better than a/a . For a nice a/a setup you need to spend the money and its alot of piping. With a big water tank and heat exchanger you should be good.

 

I'd like to run the heat exchanger right next to my trans cooler (rather than in front of it). I've been looking at this 12x12 radiator on ebay. It's got small tanks and a cap. Was thinking put a 10" fan on it and see how it does:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401123669287?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I've got the intercooler, the cobra pump, and hoses. Just need to mount it all. I've got a box of pipes and bends and silicone, but I might need a 2.75-3.0 transition out of the blower. Was thinking start with that, and If I still have heat soak I could add a 3 gallon tank somewhere.

I don't know what it's going to make for boost. I'm gonna spin it around 45k eventually. I'm hoping it makes between 600-650 crank HP. I figure, I've got 57 more cubic inches, better heads, and a slightly better blower(T vs S trim) than my last thirdgen and that made 565hp.. It's gotta be faster, right?!?

-- Joe

 

Thanks!

I'm hoping it works out. I've been really stretched between projects. Would be nice to finally get this thing out of the garage.

-- Joe

 

Really looking forward to seeing you finally get this 5hing driving around man.

 

Hopefully soon. I'm putting together a motor right now for my speed boat, so I'll be on that this week but hopefully I'll jump back on the firebird next week.

-- Joe

 

hey joe i might of missed it but did u sell the big supercharger or do u still have ?

 

He sold it Dave...

 

ahh thanks