Use the copper stuff at work, will never use normal steel lines ever again.

 

I use the teflon coated steel lines.

What pressure is the copper stuff rated at? I know it flares really nice, but can it handle high pressure?

-- Joe

 

cunifer, try it...you'll never go back

 

Its not as high as steel, but its up there. I dont remember off the top of my head

 

so my line lock came in, so hopefully I'll have time to get that done this weekend.


So as far as the exhaust goes. Right now I have two shorty 1 3/4" headers with the flanges cut off. I have some ball + socket flanges.

I have two problems:

1) My BMR subframe connector doesn't allow for OE routing, so I'd have to cut up the sfc and re-work it if I were to slip exhaust on the passenger side.

2) My BMR transmission crossmember isn't designed for exhaust running along the transmission and under the crossmember, it hangs way too low. So I'd have to cut that up and re-work it.


Which do you think would be better? Route exhaust outboard away from the transmission pan, or run it inboard ?

If you ran it outboard, would you run two pipes and do the merge where the cat usually is ?

-- Joe

 

I think your best option is to go stock routing, and if you merge the two pipes do it around the cat area.

I have done several variations of the two routes, and the stock route always leaves me much happier. I hate seeing the exhaust hanging down low and scraping on speed bumps, and unless you have a trans x-member that really lets you tuck the pipes up that's what you are stuck with.

Also the sub-frames are much easier to rework than the trans x-member IMO

 

I value your opinion, you're a damn good fabricator. I think I'll go the route you suggested. Thank you.

-- Joe

 

Ok. So the spohn inner tie rods showed up, so I put them on. Look how close they are!

I got the brake lines all finished up.

The exhaust is pissing me off. I have SLP headers, and the #8 and #7 ports are like bent closer to the center, so they are off by like 1/4".. Guess I'll have to use a manifold spreader and some heat.

-- Joe

 

At least your making some progress man. And your exhaust will go to the rear. Unlike mine

 

So I'm a bit annoyed. My SLP shorties are both bent/warped in a way that the #7 and #8 primaries are pushed 1/4" or so closer to the middle. I can try prying them over but I don't want to ruin the threads on the aluminum heads. I suspect I could bolt them to some iron heads, heat them with a torch and bend them in the correct location but I'm kinda not in the mood at the moment.

If I run the SLP's, i've got to build a y-pipe, then cut up my subframe connector and re-work it to fit the 3" pipe in there.


I wonder if I should just buy some 1 3/4" long tube stainless OBX headers ?

-- Joe

 

u know damn well those obx's prolly wont bolt right in , so which would u rather modify to make them work ?

 

I looked at the threads on them. I suspect they won't have too much trouble falling in place. The only thing that is suspect is the ebay ads say 1.5" primary yet members say they are 1 3/4"..

-- Joe

 

The OBX primaries are exactly 45mm ... 1-3/4 IF you have an automatic they will fall right in place.

 

I wonder why the ebay link says 1.5" primary's..



-- Joe

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Exhaust-...NTNK6V&vxp=mtr

those right? collectors are 2.5 but easily cut off to get them to 3"

I just cut one up to reroute the pipes and had to measure them, had to get 45mm stainless elbows and straight sections to get this done.

 

here's a pic, it's pretty thin wall tubing also

 

Well I ordered them. Hopefully they won't give me trouble with my th350.

 

Headers are installed. Very nice for the money.

Been very busy with the family during the holidays, and I had to fix a few things at the lake house due to the winter approaching. (here now).

I'm back on the car now. Had to turn down the crank pulley spacer in my lathe to make it hub centric. My lathe has a little runout but it should be ok.

I think I'm gonna build a trans crossmember this week because I like how high up these headers tuck.

I also added a panhard relocation kit and new upper bar so I can fit a 4" catback. (or dual 2.5", have not decided yet).

Plugs are in, dizzy is set. So if I get the exhaust finished this week, I just need to get the accessories sorted out, and it should start/run/drive. Then I'll finish the blower bracket.


-- Joe

 

Thats exactly how I ran mine. I just put in the Racing innovations LT headers for LS swaps in mine. I had to remake my own trans crossmember which was a PITA but I was able to tuck the exhaust all the way up next to the trans and over the crossmember (dual 3" as the collectors are 3"). Then dual 3" inlet to 4" outlet flowmaster Ypipe into a single 4" catback style exhaust. I ran 2 mufflers behind the axle to help with noise. I also run a founders PHB relocation kit to clear the 4" exhaust and I barely got it to fit. The Mufflex kits are very nice and offer way more clearance but I have a sumped stock tank so My muffler has to hang lower.

Our builds are very simular except I'm doing a 5.3LS and I mocked up my supercharger the other day. I had to buy a 250lb tq wrench and a flexplate lock to tq the balancer/supercharger hub. Let me know if you want any pics on how I did the exhaust. I have more ground clearance than stock and its 4".

 

Exhaust is done.

Brakes are bleed.

Just waiting for a p/s pulley to show up, then I can start working on the blower bracket.

-- Joe

 

Nice man. Any pics of the exhaust?

 

Texted them over.

My power steering pump didn't have studs, so I had to order some.. wtf.


More updates next weekend I guess.

-- Joe

 

Got them bud. Looks good. Im hoping to have some more done on mine by next weekend too. We shall see.

 

I'm trying to decide how I want to build my bracket.


So I have a 5/16' steel bracket that the blower bolts to.

I've got a 3/8" steel bracket plate that bolts to the head.

Now procharger uses like 6" long bolts with spacers, but i think this just leads to epic flex.

I was thinking instead, bolt the 3/8" plate to the head, and then use 1/8" thick wall square stock to space another 3/8" plate, which would then nut and bolt to the blower bracket.

-- Joe

 

That could work. I haven't made the support brackets for my turbos yet either.

 

Not sure if you have seen this, works 100%

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...r-bracket.html

 

http://www.superchargersonline.com/i...oducts_id=5601

I think you will want to use the gta324 bracket idea, similar to the vortech bracket in the attached pic.

 

Yep. I ordered some plate stock last week. The only thing on my mind right now is should I keep the 3/8" steel blower plate (that mounts to the head unit) or do it in 1/2" aluminum like he did.

-- Joe

 

One last mockup before I start building the bracket.

I bought a miniram off a forum member, so assuming everything is good with it I'm gonna swap that next week.

-- Joe

 

LOOKS AWESOME MAN!!!!

 

have you considered using this generic bracket:
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...al_bracket.php

 

Yeah, I almost bought one but I have a 3/8" steel plate. I figured the 5/16" alum would flex too much with the J-trim and the 10rib setup.

What I need to do is build the 'mount' that bolts to the head and block. The bracket will them bolt to it.

-- Joe

 

My transmission lines come within 2" of my headers. This worries me. I may have to blanket them or something..

-- Joe

 

Come on now Joe, you're running braided flex. Just zippy tie them up and call it a day.

 

Zip ties don't pass tech. I used isolated metal bands and screwed it to the body.

Installed the 1206 miniram last night. Will be running within a few days.

-- Joe

 

Wow your tech guys must be descendants from the gestapo.

Surprised they don't check for brittleness of vacuum lines...

 

You have no idea. Must be Democrats.

-- Joe

 

Getting close. I need to order a 180* fuel fitting, and figure out how to attach the FP gauge to the fuel rail.

-- Joe

 

looks good man. Cant wait to see some videos

 

got the new dizzy in, fuel system finished, mostly wired up. Waiting on a few electrical connectors and it's ready to run.

Gotta finish the s/c bracket.

-- Joe

 

Dizzy is all wired up, misc sensors wired up. My water pump is pressing against the timing cover, so I ordered some water pump spacers.

I replaced the fbody miniram waterneck with a ybody water neck, this allows more room in front of the throttle body.

I'm having a debate on how I want to do the blower bracket and plumbing. I'm not sure if I want to use the air/water intercooler, or just keep the plumbing simple and run alky injection under boost.


-- Joe

 

I vote meth but would u be shooting pure, 70/30, 50/50, or 30/70 mix? Mainly bc of plumbing, less areas for boost leaks, pretty simple install and then u don't have to worry about air flow. Cost is about the same, esp if u go with a cheap eBay inter cooler and piping etc. The nice thing about the IC is that it never needs to be refilled and you don't have to worry about anything but airflow, fitting, leaks and heatsoak. Meth is just the cost of the fluid, the kit, mounting the pump and reservoir. You can peice stuff together for cheaper than the snow and AEM kits etc, look up coolingmist. I plan to run blue -20 wiper fluid which can be had for $1 or so a gallon. It's a 30/70 mix which is perfect as I'm more worried about the cooling and detonation resistance than the actual methanol fuel addition. Either way it's still a bump in fuel with up to a .5:1 drop in A/F ratio with a 50/50 mix I believe.

Meth doesn't cool or have the detonation resistance that water does. It still cools as it evaporates into the air stream but water has better heat absorbtion.

A lot will tell u go IC which u can but meth provides cooler temp, detonation control and additional fuel all in one tight little package.

 

joe u wouldnt happen to have a spare megasquirt laying around would ya

 

No, sorry.

If you wanna buy my car, I'll include the megasquirt

-- Joe

 

lol if they dont find a new location for us to race by august im putting my car up for sale and picking up a street bike

i actually ende dup getting mine fixed , had a small issue in the pwm circut ended up not needing another ms

 

Was gonna fire the car up today,but I've got a massive fuel leak on the #7 injector. I don't know if the o-ring tore or what, but I'll look at it tomorrow.

-- Joe

 

atleast u caught it , last year i forgot to tighten one of my fuel rail hold down bolts , and the 2 rear injectors poped out of the intake under boost . luckily for me it never ignited , 2x 85# injectors put out a ton of fuel at full tilt

 

Yeah. Definitely good that you caught it man. Looking forward to hearing this thing run.

 

I broke an injector. The little retainer thing at the top that holds the o-ring in place.

Anyway, I have some 30# new injectors I'm gonna use for a few weeks to move the car around and dial the tune in n/a, which will give me enough time to fix the 60# injector.

So I called TPIS and got some new o-rings sent to me for the crossover, which was also leaking.

My fuel lines are 3/4" away from my header, which is making me nervous, so I'm going to re-route them with braided over the transmission.

So. maybe next weekend.

-- Joe

 

This is on hold until I finish my kitchen. I gutted my kitchen to the studs, new wiring, plumbing, insulation, etc. Need to finish drywall and hang the cabinets and the granite/quarts people will be in next week to meausure. I've also got to finish the hardwood flooring at the lake house.

Hopefully by the end of April I can jump back on the car.

Until then I have boxes of parts stacked up waiting to be installed.

-- Joe