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^ We are cut from same cloth. I grew up watching that show. Prob the reason I'm obsessed with Hot Blondes. Married one even! lol All the "PC" crap on TV today is garbage IMO. I still drink a glass or two of wine every night. Italian kid from Deer Park. Sometimes I still crank up the Freestyle! Anyways, back to the OP's ride. Sorry to Hyjack!
2nd plate is almost done. Took about an hour and a half to make it.
So this 3/8" 6061-T6 plate bolts to the water pump with two bolts, and head with 4. Then a second 1/2" 6061-T6 stiffener plate is bolted to it with 15 bolts. (5 through to the head unit).
Joe that came out fantastic. Excellent fabrication skills. Looking forward to some tuning/driving vids.
Originally Posted by GenX'Motorsport
^ We are cut from same cloth. I grew up watching that show. Prob the reason I'm obsessed with Hot Blondes. Married one even! lol All the "PC" crap on TV today is garbage IMO. I still drink a glass or two of wine every night. Italian kid from Deer Park. Sometimes I still crank up the Freestyle! Anyways, back to the OP's ride. Sorry to Hyjack!
Haha yeah, Freestyle was fun. I evolved into Trance though, as when I listen to Freestyle it brings back some great memories, but all the Freestyle singers I am friends with on FB are old now, and they desperately try to hold onto their youth lol. Timmy T is funny as hell on there, Noel became this Conservative nutjob, but Brenda K Starr and a few others I still have a crush on. I danced with her in Paleds on Queens Blvd a long time ago during a teen night lol. I remember battling (uprocking) too, was fun back then. Too many fights. Best thing I did was move to Jersey, if I didn't I would have wound up in a very bad situation. The guys I rolled with were five years older, and tough as fawk, lots of fighting in Ozone Park and Corona, so much clubbing nights. Most nights were great, some I wish I had no recollection of anymore lol. We still keep in touch though...
Anyways sorry Joe, GenX has me reminiscing a little...
Damn bracket came out better than anything Vortech ever put out...
Waht do think about the long offset for the crank pulley?
I'm thinking of if it should be possible to run only one crank pulley and move the blower further back.....and convert alternator and waterpump and so on to 12rib...
Looks good! if that thing flexes then i would just throw it on the slow vette and turbo this car lol. I think you might have solved the problem.
I wonder also about the crank loading with a Supercharger. Can't be good for the front crank bearings due to the offset load and it makes it worse the farther the crank pulley belt is front the bearing. I wonder if this causes excessive front bearing wear in a short amount of time compared to an NA or turbo car.
Looks good! if that thing flexes then i would just throw it on the slow vette and turbo this car lol. I think you might have solved the problem.
I wonder also about the crank loading with a Supercharger. Can't be good for the front crank bearings due to the offset load and it makes it worse the farther the crank pulley belt is front the bearing. I wonder if this causes excessive front bearing wear in a short amount of time compared to an NA or turbo car.
It can, which is one of the reasons I like putting the blower on the passenger side, and accessories on the driver side. You can even break the snout off the crank. I'm not too concerned - large journal forged crank.
On most street applications the same belt is used for everything, which on an LT1 or LS1 is damn close to the block. I don't think a 6 rib belt would turn a T-trim to 50+ thousand RPM though, and changing all the accessories to custom 8 or 10 rib would be spendy.
I've actually thought about yanking the whole motor and putting it in something more of a track car (like tubbed nova or 67 camaro), and putting a stock LT1 with a V3-Si trim or even a powerdyne in the Formula. (I even have a '95 LT1 sitting on the stand in the shop). LT1, 4L60E, and 8psi would make a nice street car that idles under 700 rpm lol.
My problem right now is I don't have enough garage space. Both buildings are full. I need to either build a 60 foot wide shop at my house, or sell the property and buy something else. When winter comes it's a nightmare pulling stuff out of the shop so I can work on things.
Waht do think about the long offset for the crank pulley?
I'm thinking of if it should be possible to run only one crank pulley and move the blower further back.....and convert alternator and waterpump and so on to 12rib...
Makes me a little nervous. On my other Vette I used to run off the main 6rib accessory drive. I did run two belts on my other thirdgen and never had a problem, but I agree swinging a 8" pulley so far out is nevewrecking. Luckily the spacer is hub centric and everything appears to be dead center. I don't see any wobble or anything, and it's a forged crank so I suspect it will be fine.
If the blower went back far enough to run a single belt it might crash into the shock tower:
This is an older picture with a previous bracket, but it's in the same spot.
Plus this thing won't turn over 6k anyway, it's a 400..
Finished product. It doesn't move. In any direction.. I've got over 300 degrees of belt wrap on both the crank and s/c pulley. I think it came out great.
I have already broken my woodruff key one time and now I have double keys.
It broke after I redid my bracket to get more beltwrap on the blower and I guess the woodruff key was the weakest point then....
I have already broken my woodruff key one time and now I have double keys.
It broke after I redid my bracket to get more beltwrap on the blower and I guess the woodruff key was the weakest point then....
Time will tell....
The F1 might be a little harder to spin than the T-trim maybe ? I know the T-trim is essentially an S-trim with a bigger volute and impeller. I think the F series are much larger head units.
That is bad-@ss Joe, you need to get some cruising and hitting the throttle footage out on the highway. It came out really sweet. Cam sounds way more mellow than the one you had with the turbo for some reason, did you swap it out in between?
That is bad-@ss Joe, you need to get some cruising and hitting the throttle footage out on the highway. It came out really sweet. Cam sounds way more mellow than the one you had with the turbo for some reason, did you swap it out in between?
- Rob
Thanks. Hopefully I'll take a cruiser sooner or later.
The cam is the same, but I noticed the same thing. I think that spinning the blower might smooth out the cam a little bit. Still has a little bump to it but it's not bad.
Thanks. Hopefully I'll take a cruiser sooner or later.
The cam is the same, but I noticed the same thing. I think that spinning the blower might smooth out the cam a little bit. Still has a little bump to it but it's not bad.
-- Joe
What you should do is build a bracket to mount that blower on the vette...
Finally got around to painting the hood. I'll probably put it on the car next week, one of my sleds had to come in the shop for some tinkering.
Sprayed the inside hot-rod black (like the engine bay), outside is orange BC/CC.
This will probably be the last thing I paint for a while, until I build a new shop with a booth. Between the dust, silicone flying around, the heater moving it around further, and blowby on my compressor (oil in the lines) I've got a lot of fish eyes and dimples in the clear. Hopefully it will sand out. If not, you won't see it from 20 feet away lol.
Eventually, when I build the new shop, I'll have a dedicated booth with a compressor with a good dryer and filter system, forced hot air furnace that draws combustion air from outside, and a good filtered evac system.
I was thinking of some flat black stripes/spears to break it up a little. Being a formula, the bumperettes are flat black, mirrors, wing. I have some 5 spoke fourth gen rims I was thinking of shooting flat black as well. Thoughts?
The only weird thing about the car.. Yesterday I moved it down the driveway. I let it warm up for about 5 minutes. I had to rev it passed 3,000 RPM to get it to move. I thought the trans had blown.
5 minutes later, I restarted it and moved it. and it almost rolled off idle.. Maybe the trans is just low but... TH350 has only 5 miles on it.
Hood looks good! I got some fish eyes in my paint as well (mostly the wing) can’t see it unless your up close lol.
Weird about the tranny if it was sitting for while maybe something got stuck? I had a symptom like that once but it was while driving, barely got it home when it was the stock 350tpi and 700r4 trans. Basically the stock converter took a dump and pushed metal throughout the cooler and tranny and took it out, I had to keep it above 3-4K to move. Or maybe your converter and tranny drained if it was sitting and it has to pump back up.
I like my Firebird, but I've got a lot of other toys and hobbies. I probably don't invest as much time into the car as you guys do cuz I'm always playing with something else. I have a speed boat, a jet boat, couple PWC's, other cars, jeep, sleds, ATV's, horse, a house at the lake, and a tall blonde. The fbody gets neglected.
Here is the last pictures I took:
Car is basically done. I just need to make a nice radiator support cover, and touch up some scratches in the engine bay.
Interior, exterior, everything is all together and the tune is pretty good. Starts right up, idles, drives.
The only weird thing.. Back in December when I pulled it around my property, the trans slipped like a ****. It has like 15 miles on it. It was almost like it was low on fluid, I had to rev the crap out of it to get it to move slowly. 10 minutes later it would light the tires on fire.. Very weird. TH350
If it blows up, I'm gonna do a E-trans with a Microsquirt controller.
Images of Rob Schneider from Deuce Bigalow with that tall blonde popped into my head when I read tall blonde. I'll spare everyone the pic from that scene lol. Car came out very nice. Hawks sells a polished radiator shroud cover, think it goes over the stocker if I remember correctly. Did you make that STB yourself...?
Hawks sells a polished radiator shroud cover, think it goes over the stocker if I remember correctly.
Yes, fits over stock shroud. Nice thing about it, it can provide you with more room for a thicker rad. I elongated The stock plastic shroud mounting holes, then used the Hawks shroud to maintain the rad and shroud in my desired position. Scratches easy though.
Images of Rob Schneider from Deuce Bigalow with that tall blonde popped into my head when I read tall blonde. I'll spare everyone the pic from that scene lol. Car came out very nice. Hawks sells a polished radiator shroud cover, think it goes over the stocker if I remember correctly. Did you make that STB yourself...?
- Rob
Haha. She rocks!
I'll look at the Hawks one. Thanks!
No, it's an SS strut tower brace. I've only seen 1 or two on the forum. Got it from Don on a car he was parting out. Sandblasted it and painted it black. (was red)
The only real problem with the car is the spohn A-arms put the wheels too far back, so they hit the fender before i get full lock. I get 2 turns lock to lock instead of 2.25 or whatever the WS6 box is.
Yes, fits over stock shroud. Nice thing about it, it can provide you with more room for a thicker rad. I elongated The stock plastic shroud mounting holes, then used the Hawks shroud to maintain the rad and shroud in my desired position. Scratches easy though.
That's a pretty good idea. My upper shroud for the stock setup is cracked, and was looking to replace it, but you're giving me some good ideas being I was looking to nab a bigger radiator this Spring...
Joe, like you I'm probably going to go Harwood cowl myself, 2 1/2" bolt on, as there are not too many other options out there anymore, and even if there still were... I'm tired of looking at the Ram Air stuff, it gets old fast and is too gawdy for my taste. Even tired at looking at the factory power bulge hoods. Fifteen years ago I would have had it all done in a matter of a week or two, now I don't even want to leave the couch after work anymore lol.
It's almost 80 degrees over here today, it's gotta be just as nice by you lol...
- Rob
I dunno. The blower leaks, the engine leaks, and the tranny leaks. I've got oil dripping from the starter, yet the valve covers seem dry.
It's up in the air on the lift.
I'm looking at a '67 firebird later today lol.
It's like 73 right now in New Hampshire. I'm kinda pissed. I was hoping for another couple of storms to go sledding before I put them away.. This is bs.
Only thing I could possibly think of is the rear main seal is leaking and the flywheel and converter are whipping the oil towards the starter, or maybe the distributor gasket is leaking. Maybe even where the oil dipstick meets the block. Where is the blower leaking, the oil lines, or the blower itself? The tranny leaking is a good excuse to put a 4L60 into it...
Actually, now that I'm thinking about it, are you running check valves for any vacuum lines leading to the valve covers from the throttle body, plenum or intake? Maybe the engine is getting pressurized and forcing oil out. My tranny leaked as well, it was both a torn grommet for the dipstick tube, and the saginaw fittings for the cooling lines being a tad loose...
Only thing I could possibly think of is the rear main seal is leaking and the flywheel and converter are whipping the oil towards the starter, or maybe the distributor gasket is leaking. Maybe even where the oil dipstick meets the block. Where is the blower leaking, the oil lines, or the blower itself? The tranny leaking is a good excuse to put a 4L60 into it...
- Rob
Tranny is leaking out of the shifter shaft.
Don't think its the rear main. Car hasn't started in a few months and it's fresh oil. It's a non-running leak.
Don't think its the rear main. Car hasn't started in a few months and it's fresh oil. It's a non-running leak.
Inspection plate is off.
I wiped it all down really good before winter.
-- Joe
Non running leak? If you wiped it down before storage, and fresh oil is still leaking, only thing I can possibly think of is the oil dipstick is reading wrong and your oil pan is overfilled, and possibly leaking passed the oil pan gasket when the pan contracted from the block when it was freezing outside. Is it the stock dipstick, or aftermarket? Get rid of that trans bro, and take advantage of that ECU trans control. You're right, when I had my C4 that thing shifted flawlessly. Going back to the kickdown or detent cable is ridiculous. I really want a 4L60 at this point myself, luckily TCI makes a standalone kit for it which is easy on the wallet (for my setup)...
Non running leak? If you wiped it down before storage, and fresh oil is still leaking, only thing I can possibly think of is the oil dipstick is reading wrong and your oil pan is overfilled, and possibly leaking passed the oil pan gasket when the pan contracted from the block when it was freezing outside. Is it the stock dipstick, or aftermarket? Get rid of that trans bro, and take advantage of that ECU trans control. You're right, when I had my C4 that thing shifted flawlessly. Going back to the kickdown or detent cable is ridiculous. I really want a 4L60 at this point myself, luckily TCI makes a standalone kit for it which is easy on the wallet (for my setup)...
- Rob
Shop is heated and air conditioned, 60 degrees year round.
The dipstick and tube is correct for the pan.
I would like a 4L60E, but this TH350 has like 15 miles on it. So I'll keep it for now.
The microsquirt module shift controller is a nice option, and since it syncs with my megasquirt it would be a nice total solution.
I've been collecting LT1's lately. I need to find something to put one in.
That's essentially where you'd have me beat, as I am forced to go with a standalone controller for the e-trans, and for the amount of money wasted on that might as well just go XFI. Can definitely tell you that every time I look at the GTA I want a different engine. Don't even know why I am still wasting my time with a 305 lol. Thought about an LT1, even an LT5, but there isn't that much support for the latter. Tell you the truth though, have really wanted a 4200 Vortec engine for years now ever since I owned my old Trailbazer. I mean with the hood I made for my project, it would be fitting for an inline six to find its' way in there, and 2JZ's, well, would be a little much for an F-Body, but hey crazier things have been done lol...
- Rob
Originally Posted by anesthes
Shop is heated and air conditioned, 60 degrees year round.
The dipstick and tube is correct for the pan.
I would like a 4L60E, but this TH350 has like 15 miles on it. So I'll keep it for now.
The microsquirt module shift controller is a nice option, and since it syncs with my megasquirt it would be a nice total solution.
I've been collecting LT1's lately. I need to find something to put one in.
That's essentially where you'd have me beat, as I am forced to go with a standalone controller for the e-trans, and for the amount of money wasted on that might as well just go XFI. Can definitely tell you that every time I look at the GTA I want a different engine. Don't even know why I am still wasting my time with a 305 lol. Thought about an LT1, even an LT5, but there isn't that much support for the latter. Tell you the truth though, have really wanted a 4200 Vortec engine for years now ever since I owned my old Trailbazer. I mean with the hood I made for my project, it would be fitting for an inline six to find its' way in there, and 2JZ's, well, would be a little much for an F-Body, but hey crazier things have been done lol...
- Rob
I've got a few LT1's on stands in the shop. Nobody wants them around here for some reason. Probably sick of changing optisparks.
LT5 I wouldn't touch if it was free.
Soo.. I wiped everything down again. The oil on the starter is dropping off the two starter bolts, and a little on the bottom of the starter. The top of the starter doesn't appear to be wet. I felt around the valve covers, intake, etc and it's all dry. The only place I found a little oil was on the back of the block under the head, but it might be from the last time I adjusted valves. It wasn't significant.
Oil drain for the blower is leaking. I can't tell where. I changed the gasket, but the plate and fittings are wet. I don't know if the fitting is leaking or the plate is just warped from welding or what.
The only place I found a little oil was on the back of the block under the head, but it might be from the last time I adjusted valves. It wasn't significant.
Where did you tap into the engine for the Supercharger's oil feed, behind the distributor? Did you feel the line itself for any cracks or breaks, or did you feel the NPT fitting you're using to see if it may be spraying during hard throttle?
Where did you tap into the engine for the Supercharger's oil feed, behind the distributor? Did you feel the line itself for any cracks or breaks, or did you feel the NPT fitting you're using to see if it may be spraying during hard throttle?
- Rob
Yeah right behind the intake. It's dry, nothing there. New fittings, no issues.
There is no way oil can be running down the starter studs I assume, they are blind holes right?
Tailshaft seal leaks too for some reason, along with shifter linkage shaft.
Only possible option is to wipe it all down again, get it on the lift, start it up and watch it closely. If nothing leaks at low idle, then I bet it's happening under harder throttle, so hold the throttle and have someone watch, or even video it. I doubt its a cracked block or cylinder head, think you would have noticed that during assembly. Have no idea what else it can be at this point if all other areas were checked and are okay. I battled a front seal leak months back that I had a hard time finding, but then I realized it only happened on hard throttle, a line of oil sprayed from left to right under the balancer, and a seal swap took care of it...
Only possible option is to wipe it all down again, get it on the lift, start it up and watch it closely. If nothing leaks at low idle, then I bet it's happening under harder throttle, so hold the throttle and have someone watch, or even video it. I doubt its a cracked block or cylinder head, think you would have noticed that during assembly. Have no idea what else it can be at this point if all other areas were checked and are okay. I battled a front seal leak months back that I had a hard time finding, but then I realized it only happened on hard throttle, a line of oil sprayed from left to right under the balancer, and a seal swap took care of it...
- Rob
That's probably what I'll do. Just sucks when everything is hot, hard to dig deeper.
Joe, what rim/tire combo are you going with when all is said and done...?
Also, which rear spoiler? Trying to get a visual of the whole car...
- Rob
This is kinda how it was last summer. Take off camaro rims from my 4th gen.
I have some 4th gen Formula rims that I plan on running with screw in valve stems. Just need to buy some tires (stock size, z rated).
Plan is to just run normal radials. I can still probably pull off a 125-130mph trap speed without breaking a driveshaft/axle, or going faster ET wise than the car is tech for (no roll bar).
I wanted to get a 91 aero wing, but couldn't find one locally.
I painted the car in 2013. It's got a few chips and stuff from whatever, even though it really has has only been driven around the block.
Honestly, I like the way the C4 drives. I wish I didn't sink soo much money in to the thirdgen. But it is what it is.
I don't remember if MS has individual cylinder correction, but if there is a way to adjust your fuel for each cylinder with that system, I would definitely look into it before making a track pull. With the information that is out there today, just knowing how different each cylinder is running regardless if people run CNC laser cut precision parts, this pretty much underlines why engines were breaking back in the day, with people blaming the mains, or other unrelated areas. I mean sure, a two bolt engine can only take so much before it gives, but I think it will hold for quite a few ten second passes, maybe even beyond with the right tune. Just gotta get each cylinder firing perfectly. This is why those Pro-EFI guys mash the throttle and never worry...
You know I had an aero deck hatch (minus spoiler) that I would have freaking given to you, I wound up junking it. Had no idea you wanted that for your car. I'm actually making a spoiler for the GTA, wait til you see what I come up with lol. I agree though. I keep looking at the GTA, then start thinking about the C4 I had, and I question why I ever gotten rid of it.
Should just sell both cars Joe and get a C7. Check this one out (last race);
09-08-2017, 06:16 PM
