I'm going to buy a Supercharger for my Carbeurated 355, And im thinking Holley's 144 powercharger. The entire kit is like $3000.00 and that seems about right. Hood clearance is not an issue i have no problem cutting a huge hole to clear for room, but installation is, I've never installed one before and I have no experience with anything holley except carbeurators.

Is this supercharger worth the money? Has Holley a good name when it comes to superchargers? Or will i be cursing them down the road....

thanks!

 

I thought those things went for about $1,600 from summit. I have been thinking about getting one of those too. Weiand also makes a similar model for about $1,400 from summit as well. The installation looks pretty easy the only concerns I can see is hood clearance and correct jetting for your carb so you dont melt down your pistons and timing of cource.
My big question about these superchargers are realibilty. I like the roots style superchargers for there low end torque tire shreding ability and thats why I want to go with it. Are these supercharges dependable, more so that the centrifical type? Also same questions as above, installation pitfalls dificulty tuning? I also herd something about this setup having a tendincy to sheer off the key on the front of the crank, is this true? Any problems with belt slippage, ect.?

 

They work great and aren't that hard to install. There is a few things yu'll need to upgrade to make it a success.
Forged pistons are highly recommended, slightly bigger ring gaps
a high flow fuel system capable of feeding the motor.
Low compression 8.0 to 9.0:1 allows a decent boost on available 92-94 octane pump gas. About a 3000 stall converter works well.
Cylinder heads that flow good like Dart Sportsmans preferable
ported. A cam with more exhaust duration than intake duration
ground on wide lobe centers like 112 to 116.
See Crane Cams PowerMax Series. Free breathing exhaust.
Carb tuning isn't difficult, on a 750 holley jump up about 4 to 6
sizes from out of the box jetting and start there.
74/75 primary 86/88 sec jets. Simular for an 850 or an Edelbrock
carb. Its best to start a little rich and tune form there.
Same with timing , start at around 28 total and work up to
what ever the motor wants 30/34 total. The carb will like a big
accelorator pump and squirter 50cc because it has to enrichen the whole volume of the blower and intake when you stab the gas. It will also like a lot of inital advance but 28 to 34 total.
Vacuum advance should be of the adjustable type and plugged into ported vaccum on the carb. Make sure the PCV vent is well baffled and plugged into the base of the carb. An ignition boost/ retard can be helpfull but is not absulutly nessessary if you know how to tune/ adjust mechanical and vacuum advance to suite. The 6 rib pulley system is ok for moderate boost/ drive ratios but for high boost 12+psi, the ten rib is better. Unlike a GM type roots blower these mini blowers are not real hard on the crank snout. A quality harmonic balancer is recommended thou.
Spark plugs should be 2 to 4 heat ranges cooler than stock.
Platinium plugs are not recommended.
Probabily more than ya wanted to know.....

 

Actually, i was thinking "MORE MORE INFO!!" Thats alot of great news thats how my engine is basically already set-up Ive got a 234 / 244 @ .050 Cam with a 114 LCA which is like a nitrous cam, also a modified 750 CFM Carb (Vaccume second) with a jet kit ready to go, I just ordered a Pro billet distributor with the MSD 6AL Box and a Blaster 2 Coil to burn all that gas up. That price you say, that $1600.00 does it include everything i need to wire it up? is there a computer that needs to be wired? or is it basically work on its own once installed. How about the carb, should i buy a special "super Charger" carb? Or stick with the basic 750 and just up-jet it.

Somthing else i also bought, a Stoich gage, havnt installed it yet. I got a heated O2 sensor for it at pep-boys in goina weld a nut in the Y-pipe after collector and screw the sensor in, this way Now ill always know if im rich or lean at all engine speeds in all gears. What a great new invention lol (i just found out about them).

So basically, buy the supercharger, what else do i need with it, and whats it come with etc... what carb (new or the one i got) and one more thing:

Im running 11:1 compression which is BAD for super chargers i know, How in the world am i goina remove compression? I refuse to change heads, these 66CC Edlebrock performer RPMS do great, And the forged flat top pistons are brand new i would hate to have to pull the engine just to add a supercharger. ANy other way i can kill the compression from 11:1 to 8:1 ??? thick azz head gaskets? Porting the heads? Any ideas? I dont wana pull the engine... dam*.

Thanks in advance!!!!

 

The install is pretty easy. Before holley put their name on it(B&M then), I installed one on a TBI GM pickup... one of my first serious car projects. That blower ran flawlessly for 3 years before the truck was sold.

Mind if we check your math on the compression? Need to know what gasket you have now anyway to see how much of a difference it will make by going to a thick one. In any event... no head gasket is going to get you from 11:1 to 8:1.

 

WOW Thanks for all the excellent info. Those supercharges from summit only include the supercharger, intake manifold, pullies and belt. You would still have to get the rest.
I have read somewhere it is NOT a good idea to run a thick head gasket to compinsate for too high of compression. Something about flame propagation and creating hot spots in the combustion chamber I think. Little sketcy on the facts. You would need to run a dished blower piston to reduce compression but that does not sound like an option. So maybe run on 110 octane race gas and pull a little more timing out. Or figure out a way to intercool it. Maybe a little nitrous, that will cool down the intake charge and toss in a little more gas to boot. Then it would make a nice daily driver, a 1/4 mile at a time!

 

There's a guy named Jason Clifton in TX who's running a miniblower with high compression (possibly 11:1) but he's using a tight LS cam I think 108. He blows some of the charge through the engine using this setup, but it really works well. I can provide more info if you're really interested.

 

I'm no guru here but I've read that the tighter the quench area th better to aid in combustion efficancy. When the piston hits TDC, the air from the quench area gets squished into the combustion chamber area forming a very turbulant enviorment... perfect for combustion. If I recall correctly for a steel rod its like .035-.040 minimum. I'm guessing from his compression he is probably in that range... so lets say his setup is exactly like mine and he is using a thin shim gasket at .015, and the piston sits .020 down in the bore for a total of .035. A .045 gasket would increase that total clearance to .065-.070. I'm not sure what the upper limit is for being acceptable but I'm sure this is still ok, just not ideal.

Another thing that stands to reason is the gasket presents more surface area to combustion pressures which I think may increase its likelyhood of getting blown out. Detonation is likely to cause blown head gaskets.

 

that price is way overboard...in summit you can now get a 6-71 ( the bigger one) for 2100. Yet they price the holley 144 at the same price. You are planning on using a carb right? If youre using the TBI then I could see all the computer stuff. As for the performance of the little blower. I can say that it is great and for the price of 800 used I couldnt ask for a better performance adder for my suburban.

 

Do you know how much boost the blower you want puts out? Compression may not be as much of an issue as you think. 4th gens that have 10.5:1 compression LT1's run superchargers, but they are limited in the amount of boost they can run. I think they run in the 6 psi range most of the time. but they use centrif. blowers most of the time. I would go ahead and go with a thicker head gasket...it couldnt hurt. How much timing are you running? If you are having detonation problems now, forget about running a supercharger, unless you want to change you heads (easy) or pistons (hard).

Good luck

 

I've never had a detonation problem before, im not even sure what its like to have that problem. I have no clue what head gasket I've got, i bought the block with the heads on it and never checked them, "dont fix if not broken" kind of analogy. Where is there a blower for $800.00 ??? I checked summit and the Holley 144 is $1699.00 Im not even sure if this is a complete kit or what. Fuel injection is NOT an option on this car. The compression test yields 140-160 PSI if that tells anyone anything, but things like battery power, starter age, cam overlap / duration really mess with that number. I want to run over 8 PSI of boost however, so im thinking changing the pistons now, and stroking it and stuff to make it a whole lot more Blower-Friendly.
Hows this sound:

A Blown 383 Stroker Running 8.5:1 Compression with 12 Pounds of Boost on a Holley 177 Or 144 powercharger. Sound evil? Solid Roller Cam 245 / 255 @ .050 and .515 / .525 Lift. Aluminum Performer RPM heads fully ported / polished 2.02 / 1.60 With Double Springs. Behind it a Th350 With race clutches / Shiftkit.
Im hoping for nice, solid, big horsepower numbers. All this can be had for me for the low price of:
Stroker Kit: $1300.00 Installed. Forged Dished, H-beam rods, and a "good" crank... gota shop around.
Blower Kit: $2000.00 Installed, Hopefully
Camshaft + lifter + pushrods: $800.00 for QualitY
Head work / Springs: $500.00 or less Installed
Pro billet MSD and Msd 6al and Blaster3 Coil: $470.00 Installed
general Crap and stuff i might run into without realizing it: $200.00

$5000 - $5500 Average Costing for Quality parts, installed and performing big numbers.

*Or*
I could just save my money and put it towards somthing usefull, like college, or maybe just save it up.

Or not

 

Sounds like a much more workable combination.
The 383 would work fine.

Hear's food for thought. How about a 377 instead of a 383
use a 400+.030 block and a 350 forged steel crank with 5.7" rods
this builds a very strong motor with the torque of a 383
and the revability of a 350. Doesn't need a special small base circle roller cam (rod clearance) or a expensive aftermarket 3.75 steel crank. Uses a 400 short rod off the shelf piston.
The 8.5:1 cr would be just about right.
I've seen this combo with the 144 blower and it works
really good.

 

well thats building a whole new engine... but it sounds cool! my thing is:
i heard the 377 (350 crank) needs bearing spacers because the journals in the 400 block are bigger.
Bearing spacers... make it weaker... with a blower... KABOOM! ????????

can you get a large journal 350 crank? is it expensive as all hell?

350 heads work on a 400 block?
when you say "off the shelf" pistons, you mean like stock? shouldnt i use forged dished? or forged flat-tops? or somthing....
My heads have somwhat small combustion chambers... performer rpm edlebrock...
I guess my main thing is i need a lasting engine, i know blowers arnt conducive to long lasting engines but i plan on using a solid roller if i decide to make a whole new engine, just for longer cam / lifter life, and prolly a not-too-high revving cam, like a 5200 RPM MAX cam, maybe 6000 i know solid rollers can go pretty high, but running the shiznit outa an engine can tear it up quick.

Imma have to do research on this kinda thing... in the mean time, i should get my car running right i guess...

more info!

 

also my car leans out and wants to die below 1200 Rpms. above that, its rich, but once i let it idle to 1200 rpms or below, it just goes leeeannn and starts to die. ( i use a O2 sensor to check air/fuel )

 

i have a used polished b&m144 roots style blower for sale with intake, pulleys, bolts everything. I also have a holley 750dp that might need a rebuild. came with this motor i bought and never used. anways 1200obo for everything. here is a pic. I am selling because i need money to upgrade my tranny and i am going to go with a ati procharger

 

A lot of good reading here:

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page05.htm

From the text:

If you have 10:1 with a proper quench and then add an extra .040" gasket to give 9.5:1 and .080" quench, you will create more ping at 9.5:1 than you had at 10:1.

 

I am interested, but thats almost retail for that blower. brand new is $1499, and the weiand is even cheaper. Not to mention you can get that on Ebay for less than $700.00 I have seen complete setups go for that or less.
And when you say everything are you including the motor? lol j/k
I can offer about $700.00 if you have everything to hook it up to a small block including the long neck style bracket which i cant tell if its in the pic or not. let me know.
Kingtal0n@aol.com

of course i will pay shipping too and stuff

 

Holley is simply the old B&M product line. They also own Wiend and are planning on phasing out the Holley line and only supply the Wiend line (under the Holley brand name). The Wiend is just a tad more efficient.

 

where are you finding the retail for 1499? the lowest i have seen for the polished one is 2099. anyways i need 1000 for it at least because i am building up my tranny and that is what i need left. the supercharger is set up for a long waterpump and has the crank pulley and the blower pulley. and intake, bolts, etc.

here is the summitracing retail prices
HLY-77-144CSB-1 144 Powercharger small block Chevy satin finish $1,699.95
HLY-77-144CSBP-1 144 Powercharger small block Chevy polished finish $2,099.95

anways if you are still intristed for a grand i can send it out to you asap.

 

LOL! How does the money you need to finish a project translate into market value of a part???

I picked up my polished B&M 177 big block blower for $900 with maybe a couple thousand miles of use at best. You should be less expensive yet with the 144.

 

i just thought that i could get 50% of the retail on the blower. i am also including a holley 750dp. :lala: :lala:

 

I was quoted $1499. for a polished 142 Weiand Blower, This is "Cost" for Horsepower Sales. The guy who works there gives me cost since i used to work there.
$1000 is more than i have, and i dont need a carb with it at all.
I can do $700.00, if it includes everything, even instructions. realize you are selling a used blower as well which can easilly be hurt if not oiled or used, not to mention you never even tried it out. On EBAY they go super cheap. go check yourself.

 

Hell you can get a 671 Blower for around $350.00!!! Im even re-thinking my $700.00 offer, its a B&M blower which means its the older type. I might just buy it new, so there are no problems...

 

Well go ahead and buy yourself one off of ebay then because i am not going to accept 700 dollars

 

I don't who's worse. The guy charging too much or the guy not willing to pay. Rebuilding a 144 through Holley (and that's your only choice) is $400. 6-71 is likely even more. Don't get too excited about a cheap buy.

 

Okok granted Ebay is weird like that... but still....
OK final offer is $875.00 + shipping, my friend says its a decent deal for both of us. Email me: Kingtal0n@aol.com
If you want to make arrangments let me know, I have paypal and billpoint and can pay you that way, or you think of another.

 

How long do blower normally last before needing rebuild if maintained properly and the correct oil is used?