what is the best way to get a higher shift point from a700r4? i need about 6500rpm

 

You need to change the governer inside the rear of the trans. Sorry I dont know more than that, but perhaps B&M or Pro Built has the right parts.

 

The only way to make it shift higher is to change the weights inside the governor. Where are you located?

 

illinois - when you get the kit , how do you know where to start/ with what spring?

 

The kits has vague instructions. They simply say that lighter weights raise the shift points and heavier weights lower shift points. You will also find that the factory governors have same size weights on each side. Kit does not have 2 that match, making it more confusing. If you want to do it yourself, Start with 2 9 gram weights.

 

I'm in the same boat. I have tried several (10) combinations of springs and weights (there's hundreds).
The problem with this is when you get the 1-2 upshift high enough, the 2-3 upshift is still too low. It's not just as simple as using lighter weights and lighter/heavier springs. To see what I mean click here. (sorry for the glare on the tach)
I pedaled the 1-2 shift at 6500 and the 2-3 is still too early at 5800.
You can't raise the 2-3 shift without raising the 1-2 shift into the stratosphere. Here's what that looks like: you can see it bounce off the rev limiter set at 6700 here. Somebody out there has found a solution to this. If not, I'll post the answer when I figure it out .

 

if you put in a transgo shift reprogram kit you can manually hold 1 & 2nd as long as you need & it won't upshift

 

But then you are back to manually shifting the transmission. We pay a penalty to run an "automatic" transmission because of the extra HP loss over a manual transmission. It should atleast be able to shift the gears for us... And it will. It seems like when it comes to the valve body on a 700R4 A/T it's easier to find out about the occult, casting spells, and telepathy than shimming the springs on the valves.

 

Here is some info for you:

B&M governor calibration kit for WOT.....THIS IS JUST AN APPROXIMATION!!
GM#24202127 = 4400 rpm
Blue&Yellow 2 & 3 = 4900 rpm
GM#24202117 = 5000 rpm
Blue & Yellow 4 & 3 = 5100 rpm
GM#24202122 = 5200 rpm
Blue & Yellow 2 & 5 = 5300 rpm
Blue & Yellow 5 & 3 = 5500 rpm
Blue & Green 4 & 5 = 5600 rpm
Blue & Green 3 & 5 = 5600 to 5700 rpm

The GM Part numbers is for the actual governor.
These will vary with the stall.....higher the stall of your torque converter...the higher they will want to shift.

 

YenkoST, that is great stuff you posted, how do you know those shifts points?

 

Let me add some stuff also from personal experimentation:
We won't even talk about where the "part throttle" shifts occur.
Springs comparison tension from heaviest to lightest:
Heavy> purple, white(stock), blue, green, yellow, rust(stock), orange, red <light
Weights, weighed in grams from fulcrum, heaviest to lightest:
#1- 8.4g, #2- 5.7g, #stock- 4.5g, #3- 4.3g, #4- 4.0g, #5- 3.0g, #6- 2.0g
Stock setup:
White & Rust, #stock & #stock= WOT 1-2 5200 2-3 5000
Modified setup:
Red & Orange, #5 & stock = WOT 1-2 >6700 2-3 5500
Orange & Rust, #5 & #4 = WOT 1-2 >6700 2-3 5700
Orange & Yellow, #6 & #4 = WOT 1-2 >6700 2-3 5800
The "famous" corvette governor:
WOT 1-2 3600 2-3 3400 (you can really win with that!)
You just can't move up the 2-3 shift much without running the 1-2 shift into the stratosphere.

 

I think that the thing to do is to get shifts a little below your ultimate. Install a good B&M shifter. For day to day stuff, just leave the shifter in D, but for the ulitmate races, use the shifter. If you set the shift points above where you want to shift, even if you shift up to the next gear manually, the tranny wont shift until you hit the shift RPM.

I wish that I know this stuff above before I experimented with the B&M calibration kit. I have had the govenor in and out 5 times.

 

Make that 10 times for me. Number 11 probably this weekend. Putting in a drain plug to get those 2 quarts into a clean jug to put back in saves time & money. You can call me lazy but manually shifting is not consistant. The auto trans will shift at exactly the same RPM every time. And we all know about consitancy winning races...
WE just have to change something else besides the governor to bring the shift points at WOT back in line.

 

Doc, I got the information off of a 700R4 forum. Its factual info. and tested.

 

YenkoST, I was not doubting you, just curious how one comes up with good stuff. Your info above is key to someone trying to get a specific shift point. It seems though, you cant get the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift to be at the same RPM. Why is it that the 1-2 shift is much higher than the 2-3 shift? And do you think other combos can get both shifts at the same RPM?

Supervisor42: I jack up the car high in the back, I dont loose any coolant except a few drops. I let the car sit on the front tires.

 

I never have any trouble getting my 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 shifts within a few hundred RPM of each other. My 1-2 was 4,800 and my 2-3 4,600, then 3-4 happened at 4,700. 1992 Van governor with lighter springs only.

With P295/50/R15s and 3.73 gears, 1-2 was at 38 mph, 2-3 around 65, and 3-4 around 110.

YouTube - Chevy Van 350 1

 

You will need the Corvette valve body that comes with the high upper RPM horsepower. I do not remember which engine, but this valve body should go to about 6,500 rpm at produce the WOT shift you like. The 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shift timing valves are different in these, besides the lighter weight governor. I think these valve bodies were in 1991 or 1992.

 

My 700r4/4L60 is from a 1993 Camaro LT1. Sallee Chevrolet sold them at one point in time. I bought it, drove it over 100,000 miles, then did a performance rebuild on it. The stock governor shifted at around 5,800 rpm. I pulled that governor, stuck the stock truck one in there, 3,800 rpm shifts. I changed the springs out and it went to right around 4,700 which is great for a mildly moded 350 TBI. It will also do a WOT 3-4 shift at 110 mph.

 

Now we're getting somewhere. I think I remember something about a 32 valve aluminum engine ZL-1??
Now for the ultimate $64 question:
I bet the the valve body castings are actually the same (for the others of the same year model). Are just the springs different or are the valve spools and springs different? I got money. Just need something to buy. Can't see buying a whole new transmission (only to find it has to be manually shifted) when the one I have works fine (shift points not withstanding).
C'mon Pro Built, put together a spring & spool kit and sell 'em for $150-$200.
I'll buy!

 

To my knowledge, NO automatic LT5 ZR1 Vettes, all were 6 spds.

 

There has been test about this...the 1-2 is say set to 6000rpms...but some shift at 6000 or some shift at 5700 rpms into 2-3. It really is about the line pressure, springs, and internals of the tranny that makes it consistant.