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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Your pic is of the install with your previously stated 98 fbody manifolds and then you said you had to use the supplied erod ones. Did your cat location change when you had to put the erod supplied manifolds in in place of the fbody ones? Just going off your previous posts. Thanks
Last edited by tealman92; Dec 23, 2016 at 11:03 PM.
Reason: Spelling
No, only the take down pipes needed to be tweaked. The cats have to stay in the same relative location in accordance with the instructions. I think i only updated the pic in the first post, but the cats are essentially in the same spot. Maybe these..
These are definitely the later manifolds, Driver.
Pass.Ive got the modified 4th gen pieces still, if anyone wants em.
Please tell me more about your strut tower brace.
That is exactly what I need. I will be using the dual
snorkel air cleaner on my 334 SBC. But no emissions crap.
The kit comes w/ a charcoal can, identical to 4th gen f-bodies.There is only a purge solenoid to control vacuum, that's it, pretty old school.I mounted mine under the air filter.
E-rod harness has a redundant MIL wire, which allows you to run a interior MIL.Mine is in the OE location.There is also a MIL in the fusebox.
Is that an actual photo of your car in the signature? It looks BAD ***!!
I have a 78 Trans Am and I'm still stuck on this last bit before sending my car off the CA Smog center: I cannot find a gas tank with a pressure sensor that is smog legal. None of the ones I found anywhere are smog legal that come with the fuel pump in it (which usually have the pressure sensor in it too).
We got a work around for the fuel pump (by using an external one), but what about the pressure sensor? That needs to be connected the the CPU. otherwise that part of the diagnostic will throw an error code and it won't pass.
The e-rod doesn't need a pressure sensor & there is no provision for that on the harness.The evap works like an old school (pre computer days) evap.
Thank you SO SO SO MUCH! You have no idea how many late hours nights I've been researching trying to find answers to this last obstacle on this E-ROD project. And CONGRATS on getting your Camaro Smog Approved!
The e-rod doesn't need a pressure sensor & there is no provision for that on the harness.The evap works like an old school (pre computer days) evap.
Oh, I'm not sure if I asked the correct question before. I never worked on cars before, but I am trying to ask questions based on what I think my mechanic is stuck on. I may have gotten SENSOR confused with REGULATOR. Did you use a regulator like the one described in the installation manual:
Fuel Pressure Regulator
A nonadjustable fuel pressure regulator with a 60 psi fuel pressure setting is required. You can use Chevy Performance part #19239926 Fuel Filter/ Pressure Regulator (ACDelco #GF822) or other nonadjustable pressure regulator.
I used a 4th gen fuel (plastic) tank w/ the sump mounted FPR, so its a returnless system.Some have used the filter/regulator part# you posted.You need a 60 psi system.
I used a 4th gen fuel (plastic) tank w/ the sump mounted FPR, so its a returnless system.Some have used the filter/regulator part# you posted.You need a 60 psi system.
Thanks again!
Just 1 last set of questions. I just want to make sure I'm 100% sure. Are you saying that the ECM doesn't do any monitoring of the EVAP system with this E-ROD kit?
The E.O states: "The kit
is equipped with a fully functioning on-board diagnostic (OBD II) system except for the
evaporatlve system checks. " Executive Order for LS3
Do I need to configure my car so that the ECM/ODBII is able to check the EVAP system?
The ECM only cycles the purge solenoid once the eng temp reaches 85-95 degrees. As long as the temp is above that the evap is continuously purging. There is no trouble code if you disconnect the solenoid.The ECM only knows the circuit has no feedback. The CEL will illuminate, but only as a warning.
You dont need to configure anything, the kit is basically plug/play. Its your basic closed loop system. The ref will check your evap is set-up properly, but they dont test it.
I'm just having doubts about the air intake system. My former mechanic installed one that he said has an EO #, but now I know it does not. Summit has a bunch with EO#s but doesn't seem to be any that will fit properly. I re-read your thread and on page 1 it's mentioned you build your own intake? Is that what you had on when it passed or something else? Did they question it at all?
Yes, the one pictured is what i used.You have to follow the instructions in the Erod manual.The TB & filter provided are 4" dia, so the intake has to 4" as well.The straight length has to be 10" minimum from the TB.So the MAF can function properly.There are other parameters that you need to follow.Those are what the ref will check/verify.
You dont need a CAI that has a EO #.It just needs to meet the requirements mentioned in the manual.I dont even think there is a CAI for the erod that is EO approved.Since the kit is basically a universal application.You are going to have to build one to fits your vehicle & meets the requirements stated in the manual.Dont swap the filter either.Used the supplied filter.The ref had no issue with my CAI.
Below is what I have now. I recall those measurements from the instruction manual and I'm pretty sure my configuration matches it, but I'll verify this weekend at the shop.
I'll need to order the MAF sensor mount that the E-ROD LS3 kit came with. From the pic, looks like it has the one that came with the CAI. My 1st mechanic is missing in action (& out of business) so I need a new mount. Luckily Summit Racing sells the same part number.
Change of subject - I read in another thread you got your car painted somewhat recently. Looks great! Within the next 6 months I'd also like to get mine painted black. I want to ask you about it. I'll PM you about it.
The straight section looks a wee bit short, but that might be the pic.I forget the exact specs for the straight length, but the maf needs a certain amount ahead & behind it.
The long straight section really does look very short from the angle in the photo, doesn't it! I just remembered i took measurements of it last week when I was going to replace it with an EO intake of same size or smaller (this one hardly fit). From the outside bend to the other side where the filter fits, it's 16 1/2". So even if i take away 4" due to the bend, I got 12 1/2". The LS3 instructions say the straight section needs to be a min of 6". I think the MAF is pretty much centered, but will check to make sure it is a min of 10" from the throttle body.
Thanks again!
What did that fuse block come off of? Or is it a part of the E-Rod package?
Very impressed that you fit cats alongside the automatic trans. Has me wondering if it's possible to do the same with small bullet cats and longtube headers (obviously not in Cali).
Erod harness includes that fuse block, but the plastic tray it fits into is not included. I found out the astro vans use the exact same fuse block w/said tray. So I got one and mounted it where the old relay bank bracket was bolted.
I did have to notch the sub frame a bit to fit the passenger cat, but nothing major. The cats are kinda wide maybe 6-7", so small dia round cats should fit well.
Really impressive build. I won't be doing E-Rod but I will be doing Connect & Cruise LS3/T56 and Blackheart exhaust.
Any comments and notes about fitment would be great.
How do you like the blackheart exhaust? General thoughts on the system?
Im very pleased with it. It was easy to install, even though i had to mod the x-tube for the cats. Since i couldn't use headers. Everything lined up in the right place. Even going over the panhard brace, i had no clearance issues. The kit came with spacers to move the brace down for clearance, but i didn't need to use them
Originally Posted by dennisbernal91z
Really impressive build. I won't be doing E-Rod but I will be doing Connect & Cruise LS3/T56 and Blackheart exhaust.
Any comments and notes about fitment would be great.
Connect and cruise is the E-rod isn't it, that's what i bought. Fitment is pretty straight forward. The hardest part was getting the exhaust manifolds to clear the x-member/frame. Cats are a tight fit, but careful positioning yielded no rattles/rubbing/knocking/banging issues. Fuel tank is 4th gen plastic part, so no issues there. Most any gauge brand will work. Harness is more than long enough.
Did they approve the non-E-ROD exhuast manifolds? I had to use corvette manifolds for my E-Rod install on my 86 CJ7 and I am getting ready to go through the referee process.
No they did not. I was told "you have to use the manifolds that come with the kit". At least if you're in cali. Somehow they knew the ones i used (f-body) were not the supplied manifolds.
Its also considered "modified" if you swap parts and the E.O. certification only applies to the kit in original form.
So even though the instructions say you can use any LS manifold they would not allow it. I think I am screwed because the ones that came with the kit hit the firewall of the CJ7.
Correct, when I pointed that out to the ref. The reply was " not in California".
Patriot headers makes a smog legal header for the e-rod, but it isn't made specially to fit any vehicle.So it's a shot in the dark if you go that route.
Yep, but still room to squeeze your hand in & most important, no unwanted vibrations.
What did you have to do to get the cats to clear, I just got an lsa erod, and I'm curious if the lower control arms are in the way, do I need to modify the k member or somehow bend the exhaust?
