So I purchased the 1985 Iroc-Z from TBRays98 and wanted to extend his build thread with a new one. TBRays98 did a lot of work on the car and I wanted to continue that commitment to the car. TBRays98 sent me his build thread prior to buying the car - that was really cool and he's a real stand-up guy.

Here are my planned phases:
Phase 1: Street Ready - Finish up the necessary items to get it street ready. I have completed most of these already - I'll update the build thread with those items soon.

Phase 2: LS3 / T56 Conversion - I already have a LS3, but it's going to take a few more months to pull the other pieces together.

Phase 3: Restore Interior - Interior pieces need to be gone through. New carpet, seats, door panels, etc.

 

A Phase 1 Street Ready Update: Brakes
So I got the brake system bled and did a fluid flush and the brakes feel really good now! I also adjusted the parking brake cable. I'm still dealing with an annoying BRAKE light indicator . I have been researching causes of that on this forum.....so much great info here!!!

 

A Phase 1 Street Ready Update: Speedometer
The speedometer was not working so I pulled the gauge cluster and removed and replaced the speedo cable. Took it around the block and it's working!!!! It seems like it is about 10 mph off, so I'll look into that later. May need a different gear in the tranny.




Pic is recent, has 74 miles on it now

 

A Phase 1 Street Ready Update: Strut Mount
Strut mount was completely busted. I ordered a stock replacement for now - later I'm going aftermarket when I do suspension upgrades. The hardest part of the job was getting the car on jack stands....the car is really low. I ended up using 2x10' lumber to get it up on some ramps, then I used the floor jack under K-frame, put the stands under the car, moved the jack under control arm. The strut top nut was difficult to come off, even though these struts had a torx at the top, I almost stripped it before getting the nut off. Anyway, here is the completed job!!!

 

A Phase 1 Street Ready Update: Blower Motor
The car had a newer style blower motor with the single larger connector. Since this car still had separate wiring connectors/harness like the 1985 should be, I ordered the older style blower motor. Those bottom two bolts were tough to get to, had to run to the auto parts and get a swivel for my ratchet. "Easy-peasy" with the right tools!

Next, I plugged the purple factory harness lead wire to the blower. The ground requires a special blade connector that secures with one of the blower bolts. I had to modify that connector by using a standard eye connector with a little heat shrink tubing.

I tested the blower and the switch and everything works great! Now all I need to do is install the A/C evap so the air actually blows into the interior.

 

A Phase 1 Street Ready Update: Misc. Wiring / Electrical / Headliner, Overhead Console
I did a few small jobs on the car last week:
1) Ran constant power to stereo so that it saves presets, etc. I'd like to put the stock radio back in so I can break out my Motley Crue tapes LOL. If anyone knows where I can get one, please let me know.

2) Troubleshoot Fuel Gauge, the sending unit is new so I chased down the wiring and fuel gauge. After a few hours troubleshooting, I found a thread on this board and determined that the fuel sending unit had 95 ohms at the connector under the car coming from the tank. So, for some reason the 0-90 OHM unit is reading high. Since I need to put a different fuel pump for the LS3 conversion, I'm going to wait to drop the tank/rear when I do the LS3 install.

3) Installed ABS headliner, it's not the greatest fitting unit. I also installed the overhead console even though it's missing a couple of parts (dome light cover and the map light trim is broke).

I don't think I'm going to keep the overhead console....I really like the retro vibe of it, but feels a little like the top is closing in on me LOL. I'll end up buying another headliner kit with the fabric and redo the whole thing in Phase 3.




probably explains the 95 ohm reading

 

A Phase 1 Street Ready Update: Belt "Chirping"

This one is driving me nuts. I still have not figured it out. I discovered that a good test is to spray water on the ribs of the serpentine belt. If the "chirping" goes away, it's a pulley issue (supposedly). I replaced the A/C bypass pulley because it was to far back compared to the other pulleys. This helped some, but it still chirps.

At least now it stops when the belt is warmed up. I'm starting to think it's the power steering pump pulley. It looks like it is slightly misaligned compared to the alternator pulley. I'm not sure if I can rent the special tool and push it on more????

The only other thing is I noticed the new (and old) A/C bypass pulley has a very slight wobble. Not sure if this is normal?

Still working on this one, any ideas would be awesome.

 

A Phase 1 Street Ready Update: Exhaust, Alignment, Tags, Insurance, Go!!!!

Well it's on the street as of 5/19/17 (all of posts so far, I'm catching up)!!! But, there a few more things that came up as I started to drive the car more:

I detailed the car and put it's first wax job on it since it was painted! Looks crazy amazing!

 

I see you have headers. The cable runs very close to the header tubes, and melts the cable, then it locks up. Put some kind of heat insulation or heat shield around the cable in that area.
I still have my Motley Crue cassette tapes. 1st concert - Motley Crue & Ratt at Springfield MA Civic Center.
I assume you cleaned and/or adjusted the switch at the brake pedal.
I like those rims.
I think you might need the under hood insulation to prevent the engine heat from cooking your nice paint job.
Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks, that's a good idea on the speedo cable and hood insulation - I did not think about that. I need shorten the ignition wires up some as well, but I think I have them pretty secure and out of the headers way.
Yep, Ratt "Round and Round".....
I'm actually on the fence on the rims.... was thinking about have a local company here refurbish them to stock. Maybe not paint the gold back on them, or just go aftermarket.

 

So you don't have to shorten EVERY ignition wire, rearrange them substituting some of the shorter ones to places that are too long. That way, you should only have to do 2 or 3.

 

Thanks for the ignition wire lenth tip!

I have not done that, but sounds like a great project to check out tonight. I'll research that a little today and let you know if it helped.

 

A Phase 1 Street Ready Update: Headlights and Dash Cluster Lights
In preparation for my first appearance at my local club meet this Wednesday, I worked on some of the "night-time components".

First, the aftermarket headlights are flickering when on high beams. After some troubleshooting and researching this forum, I think it needs a headlight relay setup. I'll have to look into that further before modding the headlight system. For now, the fog and low beam lights are working fine. Drove it around for about 30 minutes and they seem fine on the low beams.

Next, I ran by local auto parts store and bought all of the LED bulbs in the store. I'd like to replace the cluster gauge lights with the brighter LEDs. I only scored six so I'll have to pull the cluster again once I get a few more. I also noticed the bulb sockets were a little crusty, so I cleaned every single one of them with a razor blade, wire brush, and some sand paper.

I have a couple outstanding issues: turn signal indicator bulbs in gauge cluster are not blinking (but the outside signals front and back are). Also, the high beam indicator is not working. I'll research that for another night.

 

I also forgot to add, I unplugged the wire on the proportional valve and the light did not go out. My next check will be the switch at brake and check the contacts mentioned above.

 

SUCCESS today! I finally figured out that "chirping" belt noise!!!!
When I first researched troubleshooting the "chirp", every sign pointed to a pulley misalignment. The main test is squirting water on the belt grooves, if it temporarily stopped, then its the pulley.

Tonight, I noticed the alternator had some belt residue near by (see pic). That basically told me that it was either the power steering pump or the alternator. I used another straight edge, and the power steering pump was slightly outside (toward front of car) of the crank pulley.

I immediately ran up to Advance Auto, and picked up an install/removal tool for power steering pumps. When I got home, I made quick work of removing belt, installing the tool, and wrenched the pulley on slightly more.

I then reinstalled the belt, turned the car on and BOOM! No more noise....

I'm really enjoying working on the car every night - I feel like it's a mix of archaeology and puzzles. Plus, it gets my a$$ off the sofa.




You can see the belt residue, I'll probably get another belt to be on safe side.



It ain't Matco or Snap-on, but it got the job done



This is the basic configuration of the tool. Use a 14 MM for the bolt head (holds it while you tighten the large nut) and 21MM for the large nut.



The tool installed...

 

Welcome aboard. I had been following this build on TBRays98 thread. Eager to see how it turns out. You got a nice car and a nice start.

 

Thanks J. Chris! I'm really excited about taking the car into it's next chapter! Thanks for subscribing!

 

Fellow club member created this awesome logo for my car (Fireball Mu11et)!!!

 

Subscribed 🍺

 

That graphic is hilarious! I love it!

 

Thanks! He also made me a small vinyl for it, just need to figure out where to put it

 

Made some progress yesterday: Rear Differential cover was slightly leaking. I picked up some gasket sealant maker, 80w-90, and Limited Slip additive. Removed and cleaned gasket surface on cover and bolted cover back on. Everything looked great in the diff. Even the lash paint was still evident. I also rocked the tires back and forth and all was tight and felt good. I inspected U-Joints while I was at it.

It was a tough getting new oil in it because of the sway bar location, but I eventually filled it ( with a little spilled on my shirt and hair LOL ). I'll eventually swap this rear out, because it's not going to handle the power from the LS3 stick shift conversion- at least it's good info for the next guy

 

Logo looks amazing!

 

Stock sized 245/16's Hancooks
Alignment results
Ready to roll!!!!
Got the tires in today and had them mounted, balanced, and front end alignment. WOW! Car feels great now. I need to replace steering box and wrag joint soon. Think I may splurge on the Detroit Speed parts.

 

Getting quite a bit done. I used to have the Hankook Ventus tires on my 80 Camaro. I liked them. They weren't loud and handled well.

 

Thanks J. Chris - yeah I'm really happy with them. I may be going aftermarket wheels later on, but these fit the stage of the build for now!

 

Windshield wipers!!!! ..I started troubleshooting the wipers. Once I hooked the pitman arm up, I discovered one more wire connector missing. After digging around, I found the two prong connector and BAM! They worked! Put some new blades on and snapped in the wiper arms nice and secure.

 

LS3 arrival! Brand new internals, spec'd, ready to go!

 

Nice!

 

Picked up an intake manifold from a gen 5 Camaro owner. Starting to look like a complete engine now! I'll probably get this powder coated red or black?

 

Big cam install is the next up for the LS3! Starting acquiring parts for the cam swap: 3 bolt GM timing gear, Trick Flow chain damper (to replace crappy LS3 type), ARP cam bolts.

 

Moving right along there! Making me want to do an LS swap, lol.

 

LOL Chris, I still have a lot of parts to collect!

 

Found a great deal on six speed pedal set! Put it in the T56 pile

 

Nice. I've got a shelf like your t56 pile with parts for my T/A.

 

Have you installed the Momo steering wheel? Have been contemplating that same wheel.

 

No, I don's have a Momo. I'm not sure if I'll get the original recovered or buy aftermarket. I was looking at the Detroit Speed steering wheel if I go aftermarket.

 

Sorry, guess I was thinking of the wrong thread.

 

I put a Momo steering wheel on my IROC recently, lol. I like it a lot. It is very comfortable.

 

It was your thread I was thinking of. My mind was thinking of Stan because he was commenting in your thread. I'll go over to your thread and take a look.

 

LOL, no worries

 

Removed most of the tint off the rear hatch....wow, what a job!!! I tried all the trash bag tricks, ammonia, etc. I think this stuff had been on there since 1985 LOL!!!! Ended up just taking a razor blade and spending a couple of nights of quality time




Stuff was a real PIA!!!! I could not see out the rear hatch.







FINALLY!!!!!

 

Glad you found the thread It does look like a sweet steering wheel!

 

Are you going to have the rear window tinted again? I'm going to get mine tinted, but my rear window needs some scratch repair on the outside. Not sure if I can get it all fixed or if I should just replace the whole rear glass with a nicer one.

 

Yeah, definitely getting tinted again - Although I keep the car in a garage, the FL summers are rough without some tint! Of course, I still need to put the A/C back together

I'm sure there are some good glass repair shops, it's probably worth going that route first before you invest in a whole new hatch/or glass. If it were me, it would depend on the overall condition of the glass.

 

I have my A/C working pretty well now in the IROC and with these hot days it cooks that interior when it sits outside while I'm at work. My Riviera has tinted windows and they seem to help a lot with keeping the interior cooler. As for the rear hatch. I would hope the glass can be fixed. It's surface scratches and mostly from someone having the rear hatch louver shades on it some time in the past.

 

Cool, I'm really curious how well the A/C will cool in the car. Right now, I need to find what type of bolts/screws are used on the heater box to the firewall. I also think I need to seal it better to the firewall - I'm getting hot air from engine bay into the interior of car. That's my next "venture"

Once I do the LS3 swap, I'm getting the Hawk's a/c line conversion kit.

 

It works good for me so far. I also replaced some of my A/C components with new to help with my issues. I also am not running R-12 or R-134. I'm using stuff called Enviro-safe and it is mostly propane based I believe. I think many have switched over the 4th gen components of the A/C when doing the LS swap. I don't really know what is the best way to get the coldest air out of these.

 

Buddy of mine created IROC-Z and my Fireball Mu11et logos in Forza Horizon 3!!! Pretty cool!

To use them in Forza Horizon 3:
1. Go to Garage
2. Go to Designs and Paint
3. Go to Apply Decals
4. Choose Apply a Vinyl Shape
5. In the Vinyl Select screen, press the button with the 2 squares on it... I still call it the "back" button.
6. In the search menu, enter FNG into the Creator field.
7. Choose Search and you'll find them.

 

Finally got the Heater/AC vacuum issue resolved. Took me a couple weeks to go through all the components and troubleshoot. The control **** needs vacuum so that it diverts to the diaphragms to activate vent, defrost, heater air duct flow. Put in a new Vacuum reservoir, check valve from port, new 5/32" vacuum hoses. Now all I need are the AC components to get it cool!!!