Well I bought one of the Quickjacks they've been advertising at the car shows etc...
Turns out they have to be parallel or they become unstable. My High School Geometry kicked in after I had my car up in the air 2 1/2 ft and it was about to fall over, either through my garage wall or into my wife's car.... had to use my 2 floorjacks and my neighbors 2 floorjacks to get it off the Quickjack, because the locks engaged and the only way to disengage them is to get it even higher .

Our 3rd Gen jack points are wider in the back than the front and as the Quickjack goes up it moves the car back spreading the base jacks... I made a temporary fix with a modified lumber 4x4 with cut outs for the front frame rails and exhaust. The permanent fix is two pieces of aluminum plate in the back under the rear seats so I have a parallel jack point in the back. I would have preferred to make it wider in the front but the exhaust would not allow for it.

To be fair I've used it on a couple other cars and it really does work great.

 

 

Sent PM with these questions:
I'm thinking about picking up one of these. Can you send details or pics of how you modified the 4x4? Guessing cutouts for the front subframe supports? Did you also place a 4x4 in the rear to level out the car?

​​​​​​​With the cutouts, any concerns in weakening the board where the weight sits? I might be over thinking this too...

 

 

I had major concerns about the strength, but it worked fine, didn't even creek. I couldn't figure out how to add the pics in a PM so I put them here. I didn't use any wood in the rear

 

Thanks for the pictures! That is some great detail. I wonder if cutting notches out of a 4x6 post might leave some more meat in the board to support the weight. Although that might require taller blocks at the rear so the car isn't at too much of an angle.

Thanks again!

 

Hello All, new to the 3rd gen family and have a set of quickjack's so brushing the dust off this post. Like this quick fix until I can get their crossbar adapter kit. Anyone else try this?

FormulasOnly - Any particular type of wood for that 4x4?

Thanks in advance

 

Welcome! I tried it and used it for a bit. Was not ideal but better than nothing. After going to subframe connectors, lifting with the QJ became a LOT easier. If your car already has those, you're set. (If not, I would recommend putting that at the top of the list. Really helps the handling on even everyday driving.)

 

Just the Lowe's basic 4X4 I had subframe connectors also. If I got another F-body, one of the first things I'd do is subframe connectors makes a huge difference in every kind of driving.

 

Thanks for the fast response thainglo and FormulasOnly! Understand your comments, but the 85 IROC is all stock and want to keep it that way given it was inherited from my father who worked to keep it as nice a possible! I plan to post in the mid-west forum with an introduction given I don't see anything specific for new members.

ForumulasOnly - Did you just go halfway into the 4x4?

 

Yep about halfway, just being creative with a sawzall and skillsaw

 

Looks like this would work. https://quickjack.com/cross-beam-ada...ies-open-box/?

 

Concerning the post and link by Turchman, The Quick Jack cross beam adapter is pricey, but the way to go if you have the funds.

Quick Jack does say that you can turn the lift frames to be perpendicular to the car. Don't know if that would help you. I have a quick jack for use on my 87 Monte Carlo SS.

Fred