1- What is the best on car valve spring compressor to buy to replace valve seals ? Part number would be great for stock 5.7l TPI.
2- I was told to buy felpro intake seals for the exhaust valves is that correct?
Thank you

 

1. Get a stud-mount compressor. It's worth the extra few bucks in safety and frustration elimination. You can possibly rent them, too.

 

You can use two sets of stock seals and do both exhaust/intake, but it's probably more effective to just get the set for a Vortec 350.

 

Most quality seal sets will have both the O-ring and umbrella seals.
I used both on my 84 with 180,000 miles. Oil consumption dropped to Zero
and no more hot start oil cloud.

I used this cheapie tool from the tool warehouse:

 

 

JEGS Performance Products 80521

$45 and worth it working in the car. The over-center lock is great.

 

They also sell a 9" handle . Which would be better for Clearence on TPI. 9 or 12" ?

 

dunno, my car has a QJet. I would think more clearance/shorter handle is the best of all worlds.

 

Good luck with your results. My oil consumption went from one quart/1000 miles to zero and the engine runs smoother. This is the original engine with 88000 miles, best I can tell it is not a rebuild. Big difference in the car.

 

No matter which u use or wanna spend 4 one. The rear cylinders are still a PIA
to get to if u have a/c or the master cyl. on the left.

Still a easy PIY repair in u have air and the tool.

 

So I have heard . I have the air adapter/tools just looking for the best compressor to make the job that much easier .

 

Any compressor that will get ya about 100 lbs psi will work.
I have a giant tool warehouse special but have used a Craftsman
roll around or a pancake special too.

I won't risk using the piece of rope in the cylinder method that the
"pros" around here crow about!

Don't feel like pullin' a head off to retrieve a valve.

 

The rope is MUCH eeeeeeezier and SAFER than air.

Rope won't spin the motor like air does. Air WILL do that... and of course, that's how valves get dropped.

Use rope. ¼" to 5/16" limp nylon is best. Takes about 2 feet. Put #1 & #6 to TDC. Fill one of em with rope through the plug hole. Take a socket, about a 5/8" is perfect, and bonk the retainers on that cyl to break the keepers loose. Use the spring compressor on the springs and remove the keepers. Pop off the old seal. Use the compressor to compress the new spring after measuring for shims. Put on the new seal, new spring, new retainer, and new keepers. Repeat for the other valve on that cyl. Then do the other cyl the same way. Then rotate the motor 90° and do the next ones in the firing order, #8 and #5. Lather rinse repeat until satisfied.

MUCH MUCH MUCH eeeeeeeezier than air. No chance WHATSOEVER of dropping a valve, unlike air, which almost guarantees it.

 

Oh BTW: the "flat" type of compressor as pictured above, is quite difficult to use in one of these cars. Nothing wrong with it, itself; the problem is, the car gets in the way of it. Windshield cowl, distributor, brakes, and so forth. There's just not enough room to work it in. For single springs, the little screw-and-claw type works better.

I do not use umbrella or O-ring seals. Only the "positive" type, that clamps onto the guide solidly as opposed to riding up and down on the valve stem. And yes, the Fel Pro intake ones work fine on the exhaust.

 

AGAIN.......Everybody has their favorite opinion and procedure along with their choice of spring compression tool and method of replacement and brand of toilet paper!

Just SOME will BEAT you to death with their choice..........................

 

Tell you what, OP:

Try both ways.

Use air first. Do acoupla cyls. Then try rope and do acoupla more.

See which one you decide to finish the last 4 with.