I bought the Napa FS111 (right) to replace my stock cooling fan switch (left). However, the new part does not match the old stock one. Am I missing something? Or is this not the correct part? Please let me know what cooling fan switch parts you guys used.

I have a 1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI. Thanks!

 

That's a knock sensor.

 

Thank you Drew. Do you know where the cooling fan switch is located? I could not find it.

 

Should be in the head right around the exhaust manifold on the passenger side

 

That's a great picture of it. Normally you find them with the wires burnt off or they're buried and you can't see them.

 

if u got that out of the passenger side look above that and it should be there alot of people get those 2 confused when looking for the coolant switch

 

That picture was very helpful, and I did notice it was just above the knock sensor. I managed to replace it, but upon testing it the fan did not turn on at all even after the car temp reached redline. I'm thinking I might have a bad pigtail connector that might have melted.

 

If you want to check and make sure your fan, relay, and wiring are good
all you have to do is ground the wire that goes to the fan switch with the key on and your fan should turn on.

 

 

So I ended up buying a new wire pigtail connector, I grounded the wire, and the fan does turn on. But still, the fan would not turn on at any temperature. Then I removed the new fan switch, returned it, and bought another brand new one just in case if it was defective. However, when I installed the brand new one the fan still does not turn on at any temperature.

Any thoughts on what the issue could be? I ran out of ideas since I know the fan, relay, and wiring do work.

 

Might have to do with how the switch is installed.

The switch body MUST make good contact with the metal of the head. Too much Teflon tape (or other sealer), not enough tightening, rusty threads, or combination of the above, will all cause a failure.

You can measure the resistance from the shell of the switch to a known good ground. I'd suggest the block end of the neg batt cable. Should be 0 ohms. If it's not, ... that's the problem.

 

What temp are you getting up to before you give up on waiting for the fan to come on. Most dont turn on until past halfway on the gauge.

 

Don't use any teflon tape. Use a dap on liquid teflon. Tape blocks the path to ground. Factory sensors range from 225*- 230* before switching to ground. If you can ground the wire and fan(s) run the switch is not grounded or bad. The switch is case grounded.
Joe

 

I measured the resistance and I am getting 0 ohms. There is continuity between the shell of the switch and the metal of the head. I have waited for the temp to even redline and still the fan does not switch on.

 

I also removed the teflon tape, but still no luck. I can confirm that the switch is able to be grounded by the metal of the head, but I am not sure why the switch does not function when the temperature gets too hot.

 

The question that must then be asked is, is the engine REALLY getting hot enough to work it.

At some point the quote in my signature should be allowed to take over your mental processes.

Try an infrared thermometer. https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...2Cf&q=infrared

 

Well I have been using an infrared thermometer on the thermostat housing throughout the entire process and I wait until almost 260 degrees to check if the fan switch turns on, but still no luck...

 

So, what's the temp on the switch? After all, it's not taking the temp of the thermostat housing.

 

Well' if you ground the wire with the key on and the fan works, either the fan switch is not creating a ground or the connector to it is not making adequate
contact with the switch. Not a whole lot of other reasons why it's not working

 

If you do replace the switch the Wells comes on at 210f and off at 205f
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...an+switch,4312

 

It's possible that the new fan switch is bad. Not PROBABLE at all; but also not impossible.

At some point, you have to realize that you've "tested" each component as thoroughly as it can be "tested" independent of the rest of the system. You've found that the relay works, you've put a new pigtail on so the connector shouldn't be an issue, you've checked the switch for being grounded, etc. etc. etc. Each part, in isolation, is known to be working, in isolation. The only thing you don't KNOW FOR CERTAIN is, whether the switch is ACTUALLY reaching its operating temp and/or operating. Which is tough, though not impossible, to test outside of the vehicle. As far as testing, that's about all that's left.

You can use motor oil on your stovetop to test it... put a thermometer in it, rig up a wire to its connector pin and another to its body, and hook them to an ohmmeter.

 

Make sure the switch is correct for applacation. They look the same as others ie 4&6 cylinders. They will screw in but are not interchangeable. Bad switch like sofakingdom said.
Does it boil water out into overflow jug with the proper pressure cap on? Delco RC-27 cap know good or tested properly. If coolant boils out before fan comes on you have fan problem. If it doesn't let it run until fan comes on or starts to boil, then ground wire or relay and let it cool off.
Joe

 

Post #4. Been awhile since I assembled my engine & wire harness, but I thought the fan switch was up on top in the manifold, or thermo housing. There's another temp. switch that outputs a variable resistance, for the dash gauge. (The fan sensor outputs a simple on-off signal.) The fan switch will be an open circuit (ohm test between threads, and connector), until the operational temp. is reached, then it closes (0 ohm test between thread & connector). The dash gauge switch will have some definite resistance at all times, but will change as operational temp. increases.

I believe the knock sensor is mounted somewhere down lower, in the block.

So my suggestion is make sure you're diddling w/ the correct sensor.

Hope this helps, keep us posted.

 

anyone have a part number for the hypertech one for tbi cars?

 

 

Go to rock auto grab a fan switch for a 1989 Trans am V6 3.8L Turbo they are SW555 or various part numbers. They are on at 210 perfect for our cars

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...an+switch,4312

 

I prefer the jet switch. On at 195 off at 185. good for a 180 thermostat
I think it's the 60600 one

 

 

I mentioned this seller in the product review forum, but I may as well add it here.
Used this seller's switch, and so far it's working great. Well priced, with a wide range of fan on/off settings to select from in the 3/8" NPT selection.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRIC-EN...F1IFUggtY1vF_g

 

Dude.
Thanks for that link. I spoke with FOUR different "Professional Parts People" at TWO different stores looking for a cooler temp fan switch.

come the @#$% on! It's a SMALL BLOCK CHEVROLET. Are you telling me that there is NOTHING on ANY car that will screw into a Gen1 cylinder head? A van, a truck, an El Camino? A Monte Carlo, Caprice? OMG YOU SUCK! Give me that parts computer lol
Come on ol boy, i'll even switch pigtails if I gotta, don't care! It's a Chevrolet, it ALLLLLL interchanges...You're fired. I'm going to eBay. SUCK IT!

None help available. They ALL told me to "go online". Fark! I was trying to avoid that. I AM HERE. Cash in hand, and you a-holes wonder what brought about the death of "brick and mortar"?
Wtf you mean it won't tell you the temperature? The Camaro part said 212°...
Don't you see that you have killed yourself?
I blame EoE and hiring quotas for forcing companies to enlist morons.

Thanks again @MANIAC Z. Which one do ya'll think would be the best choice to run with a 195° thermostat? 200°on 185° off? I think that's what i'll get.



I ended up paying 12 bucks.

 

Why not get one of the ones I listed for a 1989 firebird 3.8 Turbo ~210 on. Personally I wont put in a switch that close to the thermostat seen way too many issues with the fan coming on while cruising on the expressway causing the car to overheat. I like a 20-30 degree buffer. Running at 210-220 is not going to hurt anything on these cars.

"Go to rock auto grab a fan switch for a 1989 Trans am V6 3.8L Turbo they are SW555 or various part numbers. They are on at 210 perfect for our cars"

 

This is the one I used until I started my LS swap. I'd probably still use it if my ECM didn't control the fans now.

 

Bad juju..
i tried to change the t-stat this morning since my switch showed up yesterday in an Amazon box...
That doesn't leak! Hopefully it'll "be cool" long enough to change u-joints before my aluminum shaft hits the dirt - it'll have to wait until next weekend.

 

What an abortion!
I ended up buying a later model base part that is in MUCH BETTER shape.
I got the car put back together but it runs like crap.
I am now deleting the CSS and gonna swap to an '89 TPI chip while I am recruiting outside assistance because I need it fixed.
Ended up installing a 180° thermostat and brand new EGR valve .
What is your solution to replace a MISSING EGR solenoid?