First of all this trans " isn't " going in a 1992 EMC car but will be going in a 68 C10, specs on trans - above pan on passenger side are 2FTM098H, driver side casting #'s 8676358 and it's a MD8 trans case.
If anyone has put a trans like above 92 - 2FTM098H in an earlier Firebird non ECM car how did you wire it for TCC loc-up in 4th gear only WITH OUT an ECM. I've read about if Wired Wrong or using the wrong combination of parts it does a Cycling deal up and down or in and out gear searching deal.
I've seen/read there's a ton of ways to do a TCC loc-up with some simple parts wise to elaborate systems using many parts.
I just want to keep it Simple and eliminate the Cycling up and down gear searching thing. It's not a race truck - 305 motor says so LOL
I KNOW I DONT HAVE A FIREBIRD - BUT I DO HAVE IT'S OD-TRANS.

 

There are several ways to do it, doing it the right way is the best way to prevent what you're talking about which would be getting the proper wiring harness that goes inside the transmission from painless performance or TCI and using the vacuum switch/brake switch to operate the lockup in 4th gear. The vacuum switch should be hooked to ported vacuum and its purpose is to sense engine load so when in light load it will send 12v to the lockup solenoid to activate in 4th, the brake switch is there to prevent the lockup from stalling the engine when slowing down with the brakes, I'm pretty sure this is the closest way that the factory did it in the canadian cars that came with the 700r4s in the non computer controlled carbureted applications.

There's also those cheap kits you see on amazon that plug into the 4th gear pressure port on the side of the transmission but it being a 92 I doubt it has those ports in the case.

If you don't feel like paying the premium for the correct kit you can cut the two wires that ARENT the 12 volts going in to the trans and connect them together so it grounds both of the switches, then feed the 12v wire to a switch in the dash and flip it on every time you want it to lockup, flip it off when you don't want it to.

 

Your right about Not having the 4th gear pressure port outside on the passenger side, on mine its inside on the valve body. I've also heard/read a 8 second timed delay relay is also needed for when going in 4th it doesn't loc-up immediately. I'm not a fan of Painless Performance products...

 

Your transmission should have all of the internal bits for OD. I've a 92 model in my non ECM Camaro.
I use a vacuum switch for load compensation (under the hood), the requisite brake switch and a valve body mounted temperature switch and the aforementioned 4th gear applied switch.
I've also wired in a manual toggle for disengaging the clutch should I want to.
TCC is only active in 4th gear and comes on simultaneously with 4th applied. It's not an issue in that regard whatsoever.



Here's a schematic of the components as well as the connector and associated colours used by the OEMs.

 

I have a few questions.
1st. Monster Transmission in there video says the temp switch isn't used and he cuts the wires leaving it unused.
2nd. Why wouldn't you use a " timed delay relay " to allow 4th gear to run some then after that the over drive or lockup kicks in. I have four other cars - 23 Mazda CX 5, 14 Camry, 03 Accord, 96 Camry all with OEM over drive trans that going into there finel gears the lock up doesn't engage right away it's a few seconds later it locks up.
3rd. Why use a toggle sw. to disengage 4th lockup from 4th. gear? Keeping the trans from running cooler in 4th. gear OD or lockup " just " creates unwanted Heat which is bad for all OD trans.

 

The option of the temp switch is just that. An option. My daily driver 06 Tahoe won't engage lockup when the trans is cold. Having the converter slip gets a little heat into the fluid which, when it's -40°, is definitely a benefit. I've more than one modified 4L60 and some have the temp switch and some don't. My current build does not.
As for the time delay, I never found a need for it. 4th and lockup are seamless. There's about a second or so before the telltale RPM drop happens when it shifts and that's the natural result of the electrical engaging the hydraulics. The time delay is an interesting tactic though.
The toggle switch serves a couple of functions. One, is that should I choose, I can switch it off and check that the TCC is indeed working. Troubleshooting more than anything. Another is using it for mild acceleration without having to drop into 3rd. Open the switch, moderate accel builds some RPM for an easy pass and then once settled down, re-engage. I'm not talking WOT here. More like enough throttle not to force a downshift.
What I haven't shown in the schematic is that I've also wired it for lockup in any gear. There once was the prospect of lockup in 3rd for chassis dyno tuning without getting to 150 MPH wheel speed. I know many that have done it but I also know it can be hard on parts as the fluid path changes with the TCC active.

 

I've got a couple more since your on a roll here LOL.
A - what is the function of or for the Blue wire jumper ( b to d ) at the main wiring plug?
B&C - seams pretty much the same as your Drawing but with some added items for a/the "one pin" 4th gear pressure switch system.
D - shows the incoming wire pathway from the main outside - a,b,d connector - one wire goes to the Solenoid then from there goes to the 4th gear pressure switch then from there goes back to the main outside square connector a,b,d - my question is what is the "function" of the wire coming from the 4th gear pressure switch doing on the outer side of the main incoming connector?
Why is there 1 or 2 pins on each of the Solenoid & 4th gear pressure switch? Im confused on that one.
My guess is it's a ground wire for the system to work it's magic?

Thanks in advance for any other advice and explanations.

 

Once I'm back at my computer I'll dig up the pictures I have of the valve body and wiring harness.
That said, the factory harness has a predetermined pinout (and colour code). This is what makes some of the wiring a little funky and not as direct as you might think. Remember in 92, it was ECM controlled so there's the element of the computer inputs and outputs and the harness works with those.
Once I'm into my pictures I'll be able to say with certainty why it's done this way or that. I'll also be able to explain the blue jumper in one picture in your post. I know the intention but I'll have to verify first.

 

Thanks skinny z

 

I had forgotten how many possible wiring options there could be in a 700R4/4L60. My ATSG manual shows 10 variations. Some with and some without an ECM.
The following is mine which is adapted from a computer controlled transmission.




Power in on terminal A. Now rather than go to the ECM via terminal D, I have field wiring as shown in my hand drawn schematic. It follows that circuit and when it's complete (brakes, vacuum, toggle) it re-enters the transmission on terminal B. It lands on the backside of the temperature switch where it's connected to and proceeds to the 4th gear applied switch. Even if the 4th gear switch is made, and all of the topside wiring as well, the solenoid won't be energized until the temp switch closes. The topside wiring never goes to ground. It simply completes a circuit and returns to the transmission. The final ground connection is made when the 4th gear switch closes. The solenoid won't see that unless the temp is closed too. This is done so I could use the existing factory internal valve body harness without having to change anything. It worked flawlessly in at least three 700's that's I've put together.
Now, while I have completely hand assembled my own transmissions, (which is something I don't care to ever do again so I hire a pro) this latest 4L60 (92 model year) came to me with a cheesy hand drawn wiring diagram that resembled a non ECM installation. It kind of looked like this.



Problem with that was it completely ignored the OEM valve body wiring and when I rejigged my topside wiring to suit what he had drawn, it didn't work. That's when I had to drop the pan (Grrr) and investigate. I found the OEM wiring and switch version of a ECM model and put it all together the way I had in the previous trans. Bingo! I was back in the game.
So further to your drawings and pictures, they represent a method that skips past the factory stuff and makes it super simple as the picture above shows. 12 volts in on terminal A and then the ground side of the solenoid leaves the case on terminal D looking for whatever method and arrangement of switches you have topside that eventually see ground and energize the solenoid.
There are several variations of that also as shown in your post pictures.
Feel free to ask any further questions. It may be as clear as mud at the moment but I'll help in whatever way I can.
Your options are many and varied. Check out what you've got and make a decision based on the sophistication you're after.



Greatest 4L60 resource ever!

 

I have some more questions but I'll work on them then get back to you - - - but for now, what is in the Blue circle ?

 

That's supposed to say +12. (As in +12 volts)
I tapped into the fuse block and this is where my power source comes from.

 

I know I should have caught this last year my bad that's on me LOL. Your ATSGs manual shows a brake down of model trans types used for #18 illustration for 1993 - mine is a 1992 "2FTM" those aren't in the Blue Circle I've provided pic below, also I've found this information about letter designations that use different types of letter designations types - I've shown in a blue line my trans's info.
Yes both years 1992 & 1993 show usage of illustration #18 but with different trans codes - mine FTM and yours BBM. Just confused on that one. Is it Safe to say both 1992 & 1993 year's use that #18 illustration info?
I HOPE IVE EXPLAINED EVERY THING CORRECTLY

 

Explained perfectly.
Interestingly, or oddly, the FTM isn't listed in any of the diagrams in the ATSG manual. Nor is anything listed as a 1992 model. The book jumps from 1987 (type 15) to 1993 (type 18). The closest they have to an FTM is as shown in the type 18 picture posted above. Next up is a type 23, 1993 model FFM and FMM.
I'll say it isn't safe to say if one is similar to the other. That is my (former) BBM and your FTM models.
The only way to know for sure is drop the pan and have a look. A hint that there's a difference is the number of wires contained in the harness going to the trans. Any that I've dealt with over the years, and that's quite a few, all had a 3 wire harness with tan, purple and blue wires.
How they were configured both internally and externally varies. You'll notice in the type 18 diagram that they reference an ECM ground. I've no computer so I fashioned my own grounding circuit via vacuum and 4th gear applied switches.
FYI: The 93 type 23 (FFM and FMM) has a 5 wire harness.

In my case, I made my own wiring diagram (both then with the BBM and currently with a 1993 "K" cased transmission from a 4 x 4 truck) and wired the top side accordingly.
FTR: The BBM listed (which was the one used in my in my earlier IROC-Z) is wired exactly the same as the truck version and now in my 86 Coupe. And the only way I could figure that out was with the pan off and the wiring physically traced. Ultimately, neither were top side wired as per the factory. ( note the ECM reference above).

 

What little info I have I've posted above "Detailed specs" and what not's - but somewhere in the forum 67-72chevytrucks.com I ran across a hole lot more of what was shown above or a lot more of the types # 1-23 details I'm thinking.
When I bought my truck I never noticed the loc-up or felt it finally in 4th gears loc- up position. So I looked underneath and found at the incoming plug NO WIRES going inside it's square 4 pin plug. Thinking the 5 pin is the 1993 4L60 "E" trans, also a 1993 4L60 "non E" ended it's run in 1993 serving only a few vehicles. So yes there is a 4L60 and a 4L60 E in 1993.
I'll look back on the "DARK SIDE" - 67-72chevytrucks.com for them other " types " 1-23 valve body pictures hopefully I'll run across a 1992 type #18 info.

 

Are you using an ECM to control the lockup or manually wired?
The 93 model type 23 I've mentioned isn't an "E" version. It does use the ECM to ground the TCC solenoid though.
The 4L60E, has to the best of my knowledge (and limited experience), a 20 pin connector.

 

NO Not using a ECM, as I see it the ECM only sends a Signal to the Solenoid then TCC is activated, I'm trying to do the same as a ECM does But With Out One using OEM style parts and some aftermarket parts. I know the Original Vacuum switch GM's # 14014519 isn't available any more but an Aftermarket one does exist and can be Dialed in for high or low Vacuum settings.

Here's some more on TCC Solenoid wiring similar to what's been posted but a little different in the blue circle/'s. Both show for 1992 FTM with different illustrations numbers close but not same.



I KNOW
I KNOW BOTH ILLUSTRATIONS ISNT THE BEST, HOPEFULLY THERE READABLE .

 

Think the 4L60 E has an drivers side has a in coming 5 pin plug, at least that's what I've read - 1992/3 non E trans has a 4 pin using only 3 pins A,B and D, C isn't used. Not sure about the 1993 E 5 pin incoming plug what wires are used.

 

The 4L60E has a 20 pin connector. All of the shift solenoids need to controlled in addition to the TCC function. The wiring between the E and none E versions are completely different.
The 93 5 pin model I have in the ATSG manual shows pins A, B, C, D and E. All are used. It looks to be that this is a bit if a unicorn as it's the only 5 pin version. But it's not an E transmission. Just a plain old 4L60.

 

100% Correct!!!

 

Why all this fuss?

There are so many ways to properly wire this extremely simple Solenoid.
Many have already been posted here, and many more options with more optimal function have already been posted all over the Forum.
Just do it already.

 

I agree although it's fair to say the O.P. maybe just wants the information. I did the same. I took that and adapted it to what I needed.
But a database is never a bad idea.

 

Probably right on the Unicorn deal, ive always thought/read a 5 pin is the Start of the 4L60 "E" transmissions in 1993. Interesting on the 5 pin not using a ECM.

 

This 1993 5 pin non "E" looks like it has one more pressure switch or a " 2nd CL.Switch "- what ever that means at the Solenoid docking port. This is one I've Never seen before.

 

This might be understandable to most but with my " OCD Brain " you've just set the hook in me - - - humor me with a explanation for " just do it already " comment.

 

I'm wondering if this 1993 non E - 5 pin is that last year in service 4L60 that was in just maybe 3 GM vehicles with one being the Corvette.

 

Just for everyone involved so far in these postings on my 1992 4L60 non E trans (2FTM). I haven't yet taken off the pan to identify what's inside parts and wiring wise. The side incoming 4 pin plug is Empty no wires there just like when I first bought it.
I just want to get REAL ACQUAINTED with it before I Dive into it. Thinking I still have a long road ahead of me.

 

The 5 pin does use an ECM. There are inputs to the computer and based on those inputs the solenoid will or won't be engaged. Without the ladder logic (stated in PLC parlance) I can't say what those inputs are actually doing. But it doesn't control the actual shifting as it does in the 4L60E, just the TCC circuit.

You and me both. I wasn't aware that a 5 pin even existed.
Interestingly though, you'll notice the function of some of those switches in the 5 pin are reversed in operation as to what they are in the "conventional" 4L60. The original circuitry (like mine) showed a switch that closed at the set point. That is when the trans temp was were it should be or 4th gear was applied, the switch closed and completed a simple circuit.. With the 5 pin, you'll notice how 2 of the 3 gear applied switches (2nd and 3rd gear). open upon application. That's to do with how the computer processes the operating condition of the transmission.
That's the sort of thing that needs to be addressed if you're dropping the pan and working to identify what's going in there.

If I may, I've often been accused of analysis paralysis. Some who have been there and done that (as in TCC wiring) are just suggesting that you do the same.
That said, I'm big on information and my approach has always been (or mostly so) to understand what's going on first and then make it happen.
@vorteciroc is one of those who's been there and done that. Like his dad before. (and I hope that's not too bold of a statement!)

Not a clue, but it certainly was at the end of the run for the non E version. Except in the aftermarket world.

As I've said, I don't blame you.
Funny story, and maddening in some ways, is that after my latest transmission was rebuilt (2024), with the 4 x 4 version and an appropriate tail shaft swapped in, the builder gave me a sketch of how to wire the TCC. The circuit was something I'd never seen before and my original ( and perfectly functioning) wiring wasn't going to cut it. So I wired it his way and it didn't work. So I was forced to drop the pan and look at what was actually in there. As it turned out, it was exactly the same configuration of switches and wiring harness as I had previously. So, after all of that work, not to mention transmission fluid, I fitted my original harness and top side switches (vacuum, brake, manual switch) and PRESTO! I was back in the game.

FTR, it can be fairly involved as there are quite a few moving parts, so to speak. And as mentioned above, there are countless ways to go about it.
Once you have the pan off, take a few pictures and if you need some guidance, there are people here to offer it.

 

Below is a diagram of the way we would wire the Torque Converter Lock-up Circuit with modern wiring practices for Non-Electronic (No PCM) Fourth Gear Automatic-Lock-up with the ability to manually activate Lock-up in Second, Third, or Fourth Gear.

This Circuit will un-lock the Torque Converter if the Brake Pedal is engaged, if accelerating/ placing a load on the Engine, or down shifting out of Fourth Gear.

Otherwise while cruising in Fourth Gear, the Torque Converter will Lock-up:

 

I'm a wireman by trade. That said, understanding the wring is easy enough and as you stated earlier, there's more than one way to go about it. Yours carries a level of complexity that mine doesn't although I'll say I like what you've done. Keeping the solenoid load off of the control circuit(s) via relays was something I came across before although I can't say my "direct wiring" method has had any consequences.

One thing that stood out to me though is your manual selection in 2nd and 3rd. My fear in that regard is pushing what could be maximum engine torque through the single disc TCC. That's something my converter people advised me against.

The vacuum switch in my circuit is an OEM original and as such it's takes considerable throttle input with my combination of parts to open the circuit and release the clutch. Can't say what the TQ output is at that point but it's certainly not what's seen when loafing down the highway in O.D. at 75 MPH. I'd tried a couple of adjustable versions but the OEM performed best. This is just an observation on my part and I'm certain these are things you've fully taken into consideration.

From my post above, here's the hand drawn version of how I've assembled mine. (Upper left notation should say "+12v".)



I was tempted to add the direct ground as you did with your manual "applied" selection but I chickened out! The toggle shown above is strictly to keep the TCC disengaged.

EDIT: For the sake of continuity, I'm tagging @vorteciroc

 

Not sure who you are getting back at (me- mjgord51 or others ?) since you don't "quote " from anyone person in particular?

 

There's an assumption made in that since the reply immediately followed the post above it, the reference is to that preceding post. It saves space on the forum's server as there's less data. Especially when copying pictures.
That said, I do understand the confusion.
So, to avoid that, this reply will tag you thusly.
@mjgord51

FTR: I went back and tagged vorteciroc in my reply. Generally I rely on the poster in question being alerted to a new entry in the thread. With or without being quoted or tagged. Again, there can be some confusion there. Maybe that's my bad.