Hi Guy's,

I have a project I'm working on. Currently the car has a 1987 305 TPI with MAF. Its wired with a painless engine harness. The 305 is completely rebuilt. Its giving me loads of problems getting the engine to Idle and run right. I was looking at converting it over to carb. My friend gave me a Holley 650CFM part # 7002-1 which is a spread bore carb. I already have a HEI distributor from an earlier engine pre 86.

Is there any reason why I can't use the earlier HEI distributor? I've read on here about different gear hardness between a roller and standard cam. I still have the computer controlled distributor that I can swap the gear from.

Will I have to change the Camshaft?

I've seen an intake manifold for the spread bore for $100 and the Mallory fuel regulator with the return for $80. Looking at performing the swap as cheaply as possible.

I think ZONES89RS may have done this swap? Thanks

 

LOL, done it more times than i can tell you Alex. BUT, yes, JUST to be safe, see if you can swap gears. I have NEVER had a problem with a gear but if at all possible, get a new gear or use the same piece that the cam is used to. I have said hell with it on several occasions and just threw stuff together and never had a problem, but then again, if it is something you want to keep, then do it the best way possible.

 

Are you doing this just to see if it runs better or do you want to go to a carb permanently?

I have a Mallory bypass FRR that you could use, maybe manifold and I would be interested in the wiring harness.

 

Hi Eric,

Just looking to see if I can just get it running properly. If not then I will be changing over to Carb permanently. Going to try again one evening this week with the TPI. Problem is I'm not getting any fault codes, had one that said the MAF burn off wasn't working so I replaced the relay and that cleared that code. I have a show coming up in April that I'll be driving the car to in Austin so need to sort the problems in the next couple of weeks so that I can do some shake down runs beforehand.

Alex

 

If it is the stock TPI cam, use the stock HEI gear. The gear off the TPI dist will not fit. The shaft is a different diameter. With a stock Hyd roller cam, you dont need a special gear.

 

I had a similar sounding issue with my friends '81 'Vette TPI conversion. It turned out that the fuel injectors had sat around so long that they seized up. When we swapped in some known good injectors it started right up and purred like a kitten.

You also might consider an ECM swap, especially if you have one laying around.

 

I was just reading the TPI forum and they said to do a resistance check on the injectors. I'll test that out tonite as it has been sitting a while. The engine came from Rudy. Has been completely rebuilt but I did nothing on the TPI side.

Alex

 

If I need to change the injectors should I stick with the 19lb or upgrade to the 26lb type. Reason why is someone has a set of new Accel 26lb ones for sale for $80.

Alex

 

While a resistance test will tell you if an injector coil is broken or shorted, I don't think it will tell you if an injector is sticking, which is what I would suspect.

 

You can use the 26's but I think you will to have your chip reprogrammed to change the injector size constant.

 

Alex,can you be more specific as to what type of problems you are having? I had a variety of probs with my car running correctly and I went through every step for codes using my OEM shop manual and finally solved my issues. Maybe it's something I can help you with.

 

have you checked your IAC?

 

Car was running about 6 months ago when I originally installed everything. Car will not Idle properly and will surge and then fall back and then die. Had check engine light on so bought a code reader. It showed I had a VSS problem and MAF burnoff problem. Corrected both of them.

Problem stays the same wether the engine is Hot or Cold. I did get it to idle for about 30 minutes and then it started to splutter and die. Don't have a check engine light on anymore and when I go to read the codes it shows as all clear. Timing is all correct.

 

Doesn't feel like an IAC problem. I've had them problems a couple of times in the past. I am going to pick up a new IAC tonite at Autozone.

 

First, have you grounded your A/B points at the ALCL connector and seen if you get a flashing Code 12? Check for sticking or plugged EGR. Causes idle problems and surging. Also I have a 1985 OEM GM Shop Manual. Most of the 85-87 MAF issues and the codes are the same. If you want,I am going to be at work(Goodyear Plant) after 5:30pm today and if you want to swing by I can leave it at the Gatehouse for you to borrow. It has all the step by step procedures for finding problems and has been a lifesaver for me. LMK

 

Hi, Yes I get the code 12. I have the OEM manual as well. Have tried a spare MAF that I have as well and it makes no difference.

Thanks for the offer.

 

I checked the resistance of all of the injectors last night and all read over 16 ohms. So no broken coils. Still have the IAC to change out but probabley won't be until the weekend.

 

I changed out the IAC and its running a lot better. Old one was clogged up.

But decided to change over to Carb as its sitting in my 1950 Chevy. So anyone looking for a TPI system with new painless harness?

Alex