Can we have a sticky post made for CA's emission test ?
With info such as what's required, what's accepted, what not, and also people's personal experiences ?

Or just have it posted on the SC3G.org site ?

 

One could write a novel on that subject. I sure hope nobody opens the can of worms about how useful or useless this testing is in the overall picture and sticks to the subject instead.

What's required:
Car
Money
Lube
Every 2 years

What's accepted:
Stock vehicles

What's not:
Anything else

Thats the short end of it. Long end is any replacement parts need to be just that, replacement parts. Anything non-stock needs the ol EO number issued by the CARB. Anything non-compliant with those general guidelines that passes a smog test does not make it OK to do in this state, just means someone got away with it. You might be able to do something with one person, and not another. I have had someone go so far as to check a block casting number. I have also... well, I wont say to protect the guilty but I paid a smog check fee, cert fee, and had the passing information transmitted to Sacramento.

Passing standards are on the DMV website, I will post a link later if I remember. It varies by vehicle year and use (like heavy trucks), and the NOx standards vary on a whim as there is no set standard. Also some areas are sniffer only, some have the rollers to simulate load. Most major cities you get to do the roller test. Some vehicles, as you may or may not know, are not tested. Thirdgens arent so lucky and likely never will be. Then there is the whole test only deal, I wont even go there.

Things that usually dont raise any flags, and shouldnt:
Catback exhaust
Air filter, ie: K+N
Different tract from filter-TB (FI cars)

Examples of what people generally get away with:
Mild cams
Headers
Displacement
Computer chips
Internal parts that are mostly no harm, no foul, and nobody sees like rocker arms, fancy timing chains, pistons, stroker crank, etc.

Things a little more risky, but who's looking?
Different block, ie 350 or 400 instead of 305
Heads
Stock appearing intake parts
Timing advance... but many of them do check this

Things sure to fail if they look under the hood:
Missing emissions components, like AIR, EGR, cat, etc.

Something you will always fail with:
Not sniffing clean

Things I know you can fail for, but generally nobody is looking:
Functional EGR
" AIR
" CAT
" PCV
" and so on

Travel at your own risk:
Engine swaps with no Referee stamp of approval
Ditching FI for carb, especially non-computer carb
Turbo
Other radical departures from a stock setup for that particular car
Open element air cleaner, mostly carb apps

Something to keep in mind is that, in general, if you car doesnt sniff clean you are screwed. You can be stock or heavily modded, even with EO'd parts... if it does not pass the sniff test you get to fix it until it does or you dont get your cert. If that means removing non-stock parts, EO'd parts, or replacing poor functioning stock parts (like the cat) then thats what you gotta do.

Keep in mind that nobody knows all the rules, and some people know more, less, or different things than others. The rules also change, sometimes are professed by third or fourthhand knowledge, and can get really convoluted if you listen to everyone's 'experience' with smog testing. Just try to keep in mind that you might be so lucky as to come across the guy that has a thing for failing thirdgens with 350 blocks where there should be a 305 and checks that every time, or some other seemingly inconsequential change. When that happens, dont get upset you got busted or heard some bad information, it wont make a bit of difference to the machine up in Sacramento.

 

Roller test ???

 

Dyno/roller test, based on IM240 standard but of course Cali is special and calls it something else and tests a little differently. They dont have the car just sit there and rev the engine, they put it on rollers and test at 15 and 25MPH. Load simulation.

DMV says:
"In Basic Smog Check areas, stations inspect vehicles using a BAR-97 analyzer to perform a two-speed idle test, which measures both hydrocarbons (HC), and carbon monoxide (CO), but does not measure the amount of nitrogen oxides (NOx), a critical chemical in the formation of smog and secondary aerosols (a fine particulate matter). In Enhanced Smog Check areas, stations inspect vehicles using a BAR-97 Emission Inspection System (EIS) that includes a dynamometer that performs a loaded-mode test. This test procedure, also known as the Acceleration Simulation Mode (ASM), measures HC, CO, and NOx."

 

I recently failed smog. After putting on a new exhaust system from the cat back and switching out my new chip with an old one, I passed, but failed on my gas cap!!!! So I bought another gas cap from the guy and I went home happy. Hopefully next time I have no problems.

 

oh ok, I know what ya mean now

I haven't actually seen it here though, I think one thing some people complain about though is that some places test it at idle only or something, and people cars need to be reved up a tiny bit to get clean

 

IM240, ASM Testing are 2 totally different things. The one that we have to do is crap compared to an IM240

 

They don't arbitrarily rev the engine for the test. It is very specific. The tech puts the car on the dyno and maintains 15mph (in sceond gear if it is a stick), It will either pass or fail. I think it gets 90 seconds on the dyno to pass at 15 mph. If it passes, the computer tells the tech and he speeds up to 25 mph and runs at 25 mph until it passes or times out. The computer readout can tell if the tech checks it in 1st gear at 15 and then shifts to second to get 25. Essentially, they want it to lug for the test to try to make it fail. Don's guy mentioned that he has real problems with Toyota pick ups. They won't run 15 mph in second gear without stalling, but to use first gear he has to justify it, and the state wants to fine him $10,000.00 for everytime he tests in first gear unless he can convince them that a second gear test is impossible. I can tell you from experience that it is difficult to pass with a stick shift third gen v8 if your final drive is lower numerically than 3.23.

 

Russ, I think he's referring to the idle test, sometimes the tech will bring the idle speed up with the gas pedal in an attempt to get some cleaner numbers.

Old style sniffer test standards:
http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/stdPAge....e-Apr_1997.htm

New style test standards:
http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/ftp/pdfdocs/asm_ph43.pdf

"IM240, ASM Testing are 2 totally different things."

I said they were different, didnt need you to tell me that.

 

Thanks guys.

I need to start planning early. Right now my stock muffler's off, going to throw a Thrush on this weekend. Fuel filler neck is badly messed up, cat has seen better days, so I have to start planning somewhat early.

 

Things to keep in mind when you take it for smog, the hotter the engine is (within reason) the better your numbers will be on hc and co2, but higher temps will tend to raise the nox. When you take the car in leave it run while waiting to get on the roller to keep the temps up. Run your tank almost empty and put in some 100 octane unleaded race gas to help lower the nox. You only need a couple of gallons so you don't run out during the test. No need to fill up with $5.00/gallon race gas.