I decided to stop playing games with this time attack business

CCW classics, 17x11 and 17x12. Hoosier R6s, 315 front, 335 rear.

Yes, they will fit when I'm through.

You stealing rear fender flares off a dualie?

Hah, yeah, two sets, going for 335s all around

Some teaser shots





315 up front, 335 out back. No dualie fender flares required

The car will need a little bit more "persuasion" to make the 335 drivable. It physically fits after some BFH work, but it will rub while driving. It will fit when I'm done though, no problem.

Hmmmm, Pablo is getting real serious and upping the ante.

Just out of curiosity, what's your suspension mod list?

Koni yellows, energy susp poly bushings except for the rear of the LCAs, spohn spherical upper strut mounts, moog 5664 front springs, half coil cut, moog 5665 rear springs, 1.5 coils cut, howe low friction tall ball joints.
Currently in progress: panhard relocation (lowered rear roll center) 24 mm rear sway bar, and big tires obviously.
Some non susp, but related components: adjustable brake proportioning valve, (stock disk/drum brakes ) dot 4, some weight reduction.

Next mods will be lowering the lcas and weight reduction. Hope to get a posi rear and disks eventually. Until then I don't think it would be a good idea to go to a bigger track.

Thats a lie, he's gonna weld the chassis to the rear axle.

Hey it works for Go-karts.

Now that's some serious wheels and tires. Lookin like a Huffaker IMSA car or such.

Here- like this

I gotta be honest Bro, it dont look good. plus if you check in the back of the rim it says "FOR T.A. USE ONLY". As a fellow thirdgenner I'll take em' off your hands and give em' a good home on my T.A.. JK. That looks killer! cant wait to see how you do. let us know when you get a chance to head out to the track so I can see those puppies in action.

Hehe, thanks guys.

I'll definitely let you guys know when I go to the next time attack. I actually have a bet with a guy with a full weight JDM skyline GTR (right hand drive and everything). He wants to bet 500 bucks that he will smoke me. He will be on 275 r comps, 0 neg camber, probably pushing 3500 lbs. He has never seen my car. I can't wait to see the look on his face.


I'm right now researching my options as far as bump stops. It looks like I'm going to have to cut out the bump stop from the back. I don't know what my options are. It looks like the rear konis have a non removable "hat" so I don't know how I'd even get a shock mounted bump stop on there. Any ideas Dean?

I used a Koni progressive bumpstop on my rear shock shafts. I had to carefuly grind the metal cone ring to remove the upper hat (black plastic) and the metal section from the shaft. I then ran a die (tap and die) to thread the shaft longer...1) Koni is notorious for crappy threads from the factory- this cleaned them up, 2) it also extended them so I could refit a couple of lock nuts to retain the top bushings after I installed the Koni shaft style bump stops. Spohn now sells the bumpstops I used.

Special note: I also used BMR bolt on LCARB's so I would have that extra bracket brace on the lower shock mount for strenth- I had planed on someday going to rear coilovers and never did. I weled the BMR LCARB's into place, I did not bolt them.

There was about a 1 year time frame that my digital camera went missing and I eventually bought a new one after the divorce. Alot of this I did in the last year I unfortunately never took pictures of, some of it was also secret because I was planning on building and manufacturing a small amount of specialty performance parts that went array when I was forced to sell my home by the courts and now live in the gutter...sorry, I digressed for a moment. This is one of the only things I did that I never took a picture of. I eventually remove the rear factory bumpstops entirely, I also ground off alot of the rear axle metal brackets that were excessive in areas I would never adjust to. I was working on reducing the rear unsprung weight and eventually getting rid of those heavy factory rear axle spring perches with the addition of coilovers- but as stated, I never got that far.

I did so much custom stuff to that car I have to laugh to think that car is falling into disaray and she is getting her *** handed to her every time she takes it somewhere for maintinance. Also the pleasure knowing the bitch has been reading my posts on here following what I do in life. Has the pile of nuts and bolts doing honey?

Ah, that's very good info. I might end up going that route. Now I've read that there are different height bump stops, do you remember how long are the ones that spohn sells? I didn't see the length mentioned on his site.
I'm concerned about hitting them too soon if they are to long. I suppose the other option would be to lower the bottom mount on the rear end to compensate for the car being lower. But to tell you the truth, my car isn't that low. I didn't want to go past level on the front ctrl arms.

What did you put at the top for the bump stop to contact with? A big washer or something at the lock nut?

I cut a steel plate on each side for reinforcement. I was the one that designed Spohn's upper reinforcement plates for his rear coilover setup- I gave him my design.

My car was very low. I had to adjust the ride height of the bumpstop with the added threaded part of the shock shaft where I postioned the travel set nuts with hardened washers from Macfadden-dale. The bumpstop just hit into the nuts on the underneath side. I actually rode against the bumpstop quite often on purpose. I adjusted the ride heght of the bottom mount so the bumpstops hit at the travel I wanted. I did this with alot of testing.

The main hurdle I overcame with this is as my daughter aged- got much taller and of course heavier apporpriately- this was our "family car" we went places in. The three of us would pile into it so the car saw alot of added rear seat weight with a thrid almost adult and handbags etc..that usually accompany two women. The car would ride great without pasengers, but would ground out with them until I taylored this bumpstop to work and reduce that rear slam on harder bumps. Those progressive bumpstops are very forgiving compared to the hard factory rubber ones...and much taller too. I think the were almost 2 1/2-3" tall from memory. I had the rates on here somewhere where I listed their compression values in 1/8" increments of compression.

The longer time creeps on the more I forget. However, I posted alot of info on this somewhere on TGO under what name I can not tell you (the banning days). I listed the ride height they would cantact at, I am thinking it was 7/8" of travel and then they would come into contact. Keep in mind this car was very stiff and light weight on the nose with the lightweight V6 and the rear I ran progressive rate springs I cut some of the lighter weight winding off to increase static rate and slightly lower the car. I kept my rear isolators in my car, even though I removed the fronts. I had different things I did to both front and rear of this car. The front travel of this car was a normal 1" travel with a MAX of 1 1/2" in the most severe bumps- it did not move very much, yet it rode very nice and not harsh due to the $$$$$ exotic lightweight parts I had in it to reduce unsprung weight.

Anyways, point being is that I do not believe the rear traveled freely more than 1" before contacting the bumpstops, I strongly believe it was 7/8" and it might even have been 5/8"


Lastly, I had originally "trimmed" the factory rear bumpstops off by about 1" and reshaped the pyramid rectangular shape to them so the top was a smaller surface area upon contact. YET when i was hard pressed into a corner ansd hit a bump it would slam intot he stops and tire compression would bounce me over a few feet loosing traction momentarily. After I did these Koni bumpstops and removed the factory trimmed ones it would never slam like that anymore. I could not feel it ever hitting the bumpstops even though it rode on them half the time.

The bumpstop riding on the Koni adjuster buttom atop the shock body never seems to be a problem either because the shock never rotated like needed to change the rebound sttings.

Thanks for this info Dean. It's a shame you don't have picts.

Now let me see if I have the assembly pictured in my head correctly. You have the shock body, then on top of that you have the bumpstop resting (nothing in between the body and the bumpstop?) pointy end up. Then at the top of the piston (after grinding off the hat) you threaded the rod all the way down to the lip, put a big washer at the bottom, put a nut on top of that, and then the washer-bushing stack up.

Is this right?

And as far as measuring travel, did you measure travel with the zip tie trick? I was concerned about maybe damaging the upper seal by doing this.

Thats correct

Yea he had a good peek of mine when i was in town and if he needs any more advice, between Dean and I he will be just fine

Hows your monster doing? sitting and collecting dust like my Vette? LOL I can't afford the tires or the fuel to run that thing. 3 MPG on AvGas at the very least gets a little costly when you can see the gas needle move going down the freeway. Cost of Xylene has gone up also. I used to mix that 6:1 with 91 oct to get me accross town. I miss the smell of good old 76 Super Leaded 100. Too hard to get Tetraethylead anymore through Arizona, plus that stuff is downright dangerous to the human body as well as it will put you in lala land in about 20 seconds firing that car in a confined garage. Talk about an eye watering perminant nap- almost been there a half dozen times in life.

well it is under gone a MAJOR transformation. It now has a Th400 trans and a 5000 stall converter, a 300 shot of N2O with a progressive controller, drag radials in back on weld rims all around, skinnies up front, new hooker long tube headers, The Nitrous will be mixed with alcohol in a stand alone nitrous fuel system, it has a 8pt roll bar with full safety harnesses, and a few more tweaks in the works. Like to break into the "9's" on the juice but that is going to be VERY tough to do if at all. I will send pics when it is done or when the crank is laying on the ground trying! All on pump gas except the nitrous. The weather is cooling down out here and the times are droping. The humidity and heat just kills us on ET's. I have been running my truck just to practice and the ET's I have been running droped 6 tenths in 3 weeks on better weather alone! Its amazing how drastic the weather can affect times. over a half a second on a stock truck.
By the way, Race alcohol is as cheap as pump gas out here. Most of the fast street cars run alcohol and not gas. Isn't alcohol a alternative fuel source in Ca. And legal to use on the street because it burns clean? Do you still need the smog equipment to run it or can you then take it off and still be smog legal?

Those are some awsome wheels you got there. Do you have any pictures from the rear too see how far they stick out or so?

Thanks. Tony.

Well, as it turns out, doing this did not work out as planned. I ground the hat area flush with the sleeve and the threaded portion ended up breaking off. Much to my dismay, the piston is separate from the threaded portion. The only thing holding it on is basically that big weld that I ground off.

I grabbed my other shock that looked fine (the first one I did) and gave the threads a tug and it broke clean off.

So for anyone else that may stumble upon this, I suggest not doing this or maybe removing the least amount of material necessary for sliding a bump stop on there.

I guess this gives me an excuse to pick up some double adjustables.

And obviously along with the crappy threads are low penetration welders working in the factory the day yours were made.

Pablo, what aout just trying to make new threads on the shaft below. You should have enough travel. Thats a hardened chrome shaft, but a good die with plenty of patience and lube should do the trick.

That looks really nice man! Throw up some more pics and some numbers when youre done!