A while back there was a discussion about where to get an AC system recharged. I can't find it in the archives, does anyone remember the details? I think I need to get this system recharged.

TIA!

- NIck

 

I need to get mine done. I know it is empty but I am having a hard time finding a place to do it. I want to use a R-12 alternate because I do not want to convert to the R-134A. Any help will be appreciated with this. Any estimates on cost? I know the warm weather is just around the corner and has visited a couple times already and I would love to have A\C with my first car that has A\C.

 

I don't know why you don't want to use 134a. It isn't a bad a/c refrigerant. I looked into the r-12 substitute, and the minimum I can buy is a case lot for $90.00. That is enough to do 3-4 cars.

Nick, do you have a leak, or is the freon just low from not being used all winter? If you don't have a leak, you can buy 134a from Walmart, and charge it yourself. I think they sell a homeowners r134a recharging kit. I presume you are talking about your 94, and not the '82.

 

I would go for that price. I like the fact that the replacement R12 cools better with less problems than 134a.

So Russ, what would you charge?

 

I haven't had any trouble with the R134a in my car. I bought a Pep Boys R134a kit a couple years ago, and Tom K. and I converted the system in his driveway.

We even did a fwy. test with a thermometer in one of the A'/C vents and it got darn cold. That was in 90°+ weather. R134 works good enough for me.

 

I don't like getting involved with a refrigerant that I've never used before, and don't have any facts on other than the word of the manufacturer. In addition, I would have to buy the refrigerant, and then if you flaked on me, I'd be stuck with something I would never use. I have 3 cars running 134a, and all three cool as well as any older cars that had r12. The other problem with many r12 substitutes is that they can be corrosive.
The epa doesn't care about that as long as it meets their air quality specs. I don't know of anyone running this stuff in So. Cal., and when I contacted their web site I was told about various companies that could get it, and they would sell it to me direct, but they couldn't give me the name of anyone who stocks their refrigerant. When they can't give me the name of a company that stocks their product, I'm not real comfortable dealing with them.

 

Okay no problem. I have found that Jiffy Lube uses FR-12 and there are at least 6,000 more places that use it now . I'll be checking around and see what I can find locally.

 

Is FR-12 an alternate? If not R-12 alternate how much would it cost to get my converted to 134A and charged? I really would like to get my A\C working. The reason I said an R-12 alternate is the guys on the General Engine board said that the coil is smaller in the R-12 system and might burn out sooner with R-134A than with R-12. They siad the R-134a would eventually break down the system and would require replacing. They also said that R-12 is colder than 134a and some guys were really diappointed after the conversion. I don't know which way to go now. I want to get this A\C working after I get the exhaust put on and I want it to be as cold as possible. Any help

 

Thanks Russ, the 134a is the stuff I'm after. For some reason I thought the switchover was done in '96 or so. A quick trip to the driveway confirmed that the car does indeed take R134a.

Yeah, its for the '94. I don't think I even own any of the AC components for the '92, besides the '92 uses the 2-120 method. 2 windows down (or missing in this case) and 120mph

- N

 

Hey Nick, I thought you might want to stay kool running around the track. All 4 of my cars take the other stuff.

BTW, how did NASA find CalClub dates on put on events on the same weekend

 

There was a lot of talk when 134a first came out about all of the damage it would do to older systems if a changeover was attempted. They also said it would disolve neoprene hoses.
It turns out that none of that stuff happened. I know of shops that put neoprene o-rings in cans of pag oil and let them soak for months without any evidence of damage. My experience with 134a is that it doesn't run any higher pressures than r12. In fact, it seems to run a little lower if anything. Whenever you switch to 134a from r12, you want to run polyesther oil (poe) rather than polyakaline glycol (pag). The poe oil will mix with mineral oil from the r12 system without problems. The pag oil is very fussy about having any mineral oil left in the system at all. To get rid of all of the mineral oil would require replacing virtually every major component in the system. I haven't seen any evidence of larger condensers for 134a than with r12. It seems to work fine as an a/c coolant. It only presents problems when you need to pull the temp below 0*f.

 

How much would it cost then to have my car converted and charged? I am really looking to get this done before the heat starts up. Anybody know any good places that are reasonably priced to get this done?

 

Bringing back from the dead.
Is there any way you can tell that the refrigerant is LOW? Mine cools, but gets hot at stoplights.
That Jiffy Lube thing, FR-12, how does that work? It's an alternative that CAN mix w/ R-12??? Or you gotta evacuate the R-12 and then add all new FR-12?