Doing a search, I see several have had rear shock upper mount failure. Typically, though, it's caused by use of air shocks or rust.

I had neither. Mine didn't punch through, it pulled through. Three cracks per sheet metal layer, opened like a flower pedal. I don't drive it that hard, shocks are simple Pro Ryder gas replacements.

I fixed it like others have, thick washers on each side (required "thinning" the rubber mounts). Squeaks a little, but not as much noise as the loose shock, that's for sure. We'll see how long it lasts.

Just thought I'd mention it. Happened a week after the subframe connectors went in (no connection, I'm sure - no pun intended...).

 

You probably saw my message; I had tried the washer method first, but it didn't work; just cracked the metal the rest of the way thru- but I was running air shocks. Let us know how it holds up!

 

You'd think they would have learned. '55-'57 Chevys used the trunk pan to mount the rear shocks. I haven't had any problems with this '57, but I had another that punched through on our honeymoon (over-shock helper springs). I put 1/8" strap on each side, formed to the mount shape, held well, sold it that way.

This '57 has a mount mini-frame that bolts between the frame rails to mount the shocks now. Highly superior. Can't exactly do the same thing with the Camaro.

I'll let you know how it lasts. Probably won't, but will do for now.

 

I used gigantic truck frender mounted mirror washers 2 per side. I carefully bent and hammered them into the shape of the body contours. Then I put a bolt through the center. Thightened it up, and MIG welded it in place. I then removed the bolt , and installed the shock. Two years ago! Still works fine.

Thanx,ANDYZ28

 

I'm going to be changing my shocks and springs soon - probably for Koni Yellows and Global West 1" lowering springs which may result in additional stress to the car.

Is there anything I can do to prevent the upper mount from failing as described in your post.

 

Apply the fix before it breaks.

 

Any pics of the failure ?

 

that's the first time I've ever heard of that..

The person who had my car before me had Air shocks on it and the hollowed (honed?) out the lower shock mounts. I Had to weld washers there to make the holes the right size again.

I guess I'll have to look closer at my upper shock mounts to make sure.

 

Sorry, no pics. I'm not digital yet (but Mother's Day is coming up soon - hey, she asked for a camera...).

 

I have a picture somewhere in my room of the blown out shock mount... gotta dig it up and scan it in.

Five7kid, I just picked up one of those little pen cams from Office Max for $60, works pretty good for being so cheap. It even lets you get 2 inches away from a part! Bummer part is, you can't trust the viewfinder when you're that close, since the lens is an inch below the viewfinder. I was doing this page: http://www.geocities.com/tomp_3rdgen/burnt-cap.html with the camera, and if I got close to, say, the rotor, and had it centered in the viewfinder, the actual pic showed the top 1/2 of the rotor.

Oh, and in case nobody does a search, here's what I did. I went to Home Depot, and bought 6 feet of 2 inch wide, 1/8" thick steel. (This was the days before I owned a welder.) I bought 4 large bolt/lockwasher/locking nut combinations. I crawled under the car, and using a 2" wide piece of aluminum as a template, I covered the damaged area with the aluminum. I cut the steel to match the aluminum templates, twice, so I had two 1/8" pieces. Then I stuck the pieces together, and drilled four holes in 'em. Then I held them up to the body, and drilled from the underside of the car into the hatch area, and bolted them in. So I have 1/4" of steel up there for each side... that's not going anywhere now!