I just talked to a guy at a frameshop that will be installing sfcs and a 8-point rollbar into the 92 Hardtop. Ill be going with a set of Kenny Brown SFCs unless Spohn finishes up his before I put my order in (I have Spohns on my ttop car...and i love them...but icant wait any longer). Ill also be gonig with the S&W rollbar. My question...how do i go about tieing the rollbar to the subframe connectors...and is this the best route to go? The guy at the frame shop is pretty damn experienced...but he said hes never done this before (welding sfcs to rollbar). He also said i could save a bit more money by going ahead and bolting the rollbar in and he can just go in and weld it...but i dont think the S&W rollbar is bolt/weld in. Im assuming all that needs to be done is have holes cut where the main hoop bars and the side door bars go so they can fit through there to the sfcs....and then the rest of the bars are just welded using the plates...but wouldnt this cause the bar to sit a little bit lower? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Most likely the hoop and other tubes are cut long and you will have to "final" fit them. I have my 6 point bolt in bar mounted on top of a plate thats welded on the end of the frame connectors at the hoop. The door bars mount to the front of the frame connectors as well. The more that you can tie all of this together the better it will be.

Darrell

 

The ends of the tubing should all be "fishmouthed" for the best fit.

 

yup ... weld them together for ultimate support ... or not .. not sure how you'd do it to the KB's though ... with plain SFCs' they
run parallel to each other and right under the perfect spot to tie into the cage .... I just welded the SFC to the bottom of the floor and the cage to the top ...

 

why would bolting them on first save money? Doesn't he have to grind the area that they'll weld to to get a clean weld? Won't they be int he way?

 

He said "the less i have to mess with them the cheaper it'll be" So i guess by bolting it together...it'll all be fitted...the holes will be made (so the bar will reach the sfcs) and I can get everything where its supposed to be.

 

nhra requires 3/16"x6"x6" plate on the bottom of the rool bar tubing to be welded to the sheet metal of the car floor. doesn't have to welded to the SFCs, might not even be legal, but my rule books in the garage. sounds like a lot of extra work for little if any gain to me.

 

On full frame cars the roll bar MUST be welded to the frame. This is a problem on older cars like 57 chevs that have an X frame so there's no frame under the door sill.

If you can weld the roll bar to the SFC it should pass a tech inspection as long as the SFC are welded in also. Don't expect an aftermarket roll bar/cage kit to line up to your SFC. It's best to have one custom made.

I did the welding to the plates method in my car. 6x6x1/8" plate is bent and shaped around the floor area where the roll bar is going to be. The bars are then welded to the plate. You do this for all the mounting points. The whole idea is that there's 2 feet of weld holding the roll bar to the sheet metal.

 

the part the that is welded to the SFC are the two supports for the main hoop ... usually they are run from the shoulder bar where is meets the main hoop diag down to the SFC ..... the difference between a 6 point cage and a 8 point .... perfectly legal with or without that connection ... depending on how fast you go

TVP

 

TVP.....

Do you own a blue 89 IROC that you used to run in Solo 1?

Darrell

 

so do you need 1/8" or 3/16" plate at the mounting points? ede says 3/16, stephen says 1/8

 

i also said my rule books in the garage, i'd have to look again to be sure

 

6 x 6 x 1/8" is the NHRA rule. They are included with the S&W roll bar.