I know that there is an adjustment on the front of the ta and I have mine as short as possible. Should this be unscrewed so that the arm is longer? There is a bracket with a bolt that runs through it and can be adjusted back and forth. I just read an article on torque arms can be too short. Too short causes worse 60' times.

 

Uh, there shouldn't be any adjustment at the front of the t-arm. That bracket is there to allow for forward and backward travel of the arm as the suspension moves.

Which version of the Spohn t-arm do you have? I have the first generation version with the slip-tube design.

Steve designed these arms as a "direct fit" so there's no adjusting the length. Besides there's no need to. The arm simply controls the torque of the rear axle so more power gets put to the tires.

 

the only adj. you should have to make is in the rear, you adj. the pinion angle there. the front sshould be able to move freely. to adj the rear you use the angle finder that came with the TA. the directions from spohn should tell you exactly how to do that, if you don't have that, i can explain it.

 

I agree with the comments made so far. There is no adjustment for length. The arm has to have a bit of give in length as the rear end rotates or it would bind. The stock torque arm also allows a bit of give as the front mount point slides forward and back in the rubber or polyurethane mount. The only adjustment is for pinion angle of the rear end. Lon

 

That makes sense guys but for some reason there is an adjustment on the front of the ta. I'll just leave that alone if it's not for anything. Also, I haven't had my car to the track yet since I put the ta on but it seems that it spins more since I put it on and set it to -4 degrees.

 

There's not really an adjustment on the front of the T-arm. It's just that when Setve redesigned it, he threaded the tube so it can accept either the poly bushing or the rod end. This also allows for easy replacement when the bushing or rod end wears out.

-4 is waaay to much pinion angle for street use. That's better saved for the track. On the street I run -1. Steve's directions will say the same thing.

 

The torque arm is only half the equation. If you've lowered the car you need LCA relocation brackets to correct the geometry. Otherwise the rear end will rotate way too easily causing bad traction and wheel hop. Both are hard on the driveline components. Lon

 

I have lca relocation brackets, Lakewood lca's, poly bushings, subframe connectors, and a spohn torque arm. I still spin badly. I just expected more out of the torque arm.

 

What tires are you using?

The T-arm won't eliminate wheel spin. It controls the rear end and gets more power to the wheels. If your tires can't/won't hook-up then you need to try BFG Drag Radials or MT E.T. Streets.

 

I am using bfg drag radials on the street and MT et drags at the strip and am only getting 1.8 60' times. Still spinning!

 

I'm guessing I have about 500 hp with juice but I still think that the 60' times should be lower than 1.8 and 1.9. The car has ran 12.36 at 110 with the MT et drags. The size is 26 tall and 8.5 wide. I am getting them really hot on the burnout also. Shouldn't slicks and all the suspension stuff make me get about a 1.6? 60' time?

 

Man, you should be hooking up. I'm not sure what to tell you. Maybe try some wider rims/slicks in back, like 10" instead of 8.5".

How are you launching the car?

 

You're not hitting the NOS off the line are you?

 

Right off the line I'm not hitting the button but mid way through first gear I hit it. Sometimes I wait until the end of first. The funny thing is that the best 60' time I've had is when I hit it right off the line. I spun sideways and the 60' time is 1.8. I'm not sure what to do except for trying some wider and taller tires like BretD said.

 

When you say you have the pinion angle at -1*, does that mean the front of the pinion is lower? or higher? Just put my TA on last night, didn't get a chance to use the gauge or to drive the car as the engine swap isn't quite there yet.....

 

The front of the pinion should be lower.

 

That's what I figured, but with my luck, I can never be too sure