1LE prop valve
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From: Ga
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
1LE prop valve
I've read all I can and if I've missed it I apologize for asking it again.
What is the exact prop valve for the 1LE front brakes with drum rears?
And if I understand correctly the Earl's brake line kits have all the front lines long enough to work with the 1LE's.
Earl's 28A180 for 84-92 f-bodys with front disc.
These two items and the bolts and I'll be ready.
Thanks for any replys
Darrell
What is the exact prop valve for the 1LE front brakes with drum rears?
And if I understand correctly the Earl's brake line kits have all the front lines long enough to work with the 1LE's.
Earl's 28A180 for 84-92 f-bodys with front disc.
These two items and the bolts and I'll be ready.
Thanks for any replys
Darrell
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Posts: 1,515
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From: Midlothian,VA. 23112-6108
Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 5.0 w/ Holly carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
The 1LE proportioning valve is only for the '89-'92 4wheel disc brakes. No application info for 1LE front and drum rear.
I have the "big" 12 1LE 4 wheel brake system on my car.
I really do wish I could help you out. Perhaps you colud install the 1LE front brake package, and road test it with your existing propotioning valve. You can always change it later. Just a suggestion. I wish I had road tested mine before I changed the proportioning valve.
Thanx,ANDYZ28
I have the "big" 12 1LE 4 wheel brake system on my car.
I really do wish I could help you out. Perhaps you colud install the 1LE front brake package, and road test it with your existing propotioning valve. You can always change it later. Just a suggestion. I wish I had road tested mine before I changed the proportioning valve.
Thanx,ANDYZ28
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Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Ga
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Thanks Andy
I'll do just as you say and see what it does. The prop valve determines the front to rear braking bias......correct?
And if it does why not install an adjustable prop valve if its not correct with the stock disc/drum valve?
Any info on the hoses? Or was I correct with the application there?
Thanks
Darrell
I'll do just as you say and see what it does. The prop valve determines the front to rear braking bias......correct?
And if it does why not install an adjustable prop valve if its not correct with the stock disc/drum valve?
Any info on the hoses? Or was I correct with the application there?
Thanks
Darrell
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From: Another world, some other time
Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I believe the stock prop valve will work fine. GregWestphal ran 1LE fronts with stock rear drums. See link below
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...s+drums+worked
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...s+drums+worked
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,515
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From: Midlothian,VA. 23112-6108
Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 5.0 w/ Holly carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
Originally posted by DM91RS
Thanks Andy
I'll do just as you say and see what it does. The prop valve determines the front to rear braking bias......correct?
And if it does why not install an adjustable prop valve if its not correct with the stock disc/drum valve?
Any info on the hoses? Or was I correct with the application there?
Thanks
Darrell
Thanks Andy
I'll do just as you say and see what it does. The prop valve determines the front to rear braking bias......correct?
And if it does why not install an adjustable prop valve if its not correct with the stock disc/drum valve?
Any info on the hoses? Or was I correct with the application there?
Thanks
Darrell
When I do the 4 wheel 1LE brake upgrade to my '86 IROCZ. I am not going to replace the factory J50 combination valve. Then I will road test the car and try to determine the effect this has on brake performance.
I believe it is 25A190
Thanx,ANDYZ28
As Justin mentioned, the 1LE front/ rear drum setup seems to work fine with the stock proportioning valve in Greg's car and that is what I am also going to try in mine.
I don't know if the '89 and up rear disks are easier to change pads on than the '88 and older, but those were a serious PITA and have swayed me to keeping the drum rear. They stop just as well as disks for short periods, they just retain alot more heat. Aluminum drums can help with that though.
-Matt
I don't know if the '89 and up rear disks are easier to change pads on than the '88 and older, but those were a serious PITA and have swayed me to keeping the drum rear. They stop just as well as disks for short periods, they just retain alot more heat. Aluminum drums can help with that though.
-Matt
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From: Ga
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Thanks for all the replys guys.
I'll try the valve just the way it is and install for now one of the sets of alum rear drums that I have.
And thanks for the hose info. I found a set of Earl's here in the Atlanta area for $62. Eight bucks lower than Summit
Now to decide to get the Earls solo bleeders or not. Any recommendations on those?
Thanks again
Darrell
I'll try the valve just the way it is and install for now one of the sets of alum rear drums that I have.
And thanks for the hose info. I found a set of Earl's here in the Atlanta area for $62. Eight bucks lower than Summit

Now to decide to get the Earls solo bleeders or not. Any recommendations on those?
Thanks again
Darrell
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