Now I have no pedal at all
I tried to bleed the brakes but I still have no pedal
Do you have to bleed the rears? Seems as if I would not have to bleed the rear seeing as how it is a seperate system

Can anyone advise me on this?

Do I tighten the bleeder before the pumper gets all the way to the bottom of pedal travel?

Thanks

 

You should've only had to bleed the line that you changed... unless... did you let the master cylinder run dry?

 

I do not think it went all the way dry but it did come mighty close
Can I bleed the MC on the car?

 

depending on how close you came to the bottom you could have sucked some air in the MC. Replacing the line should have stiffened up your pedel if anything. To bleed them the proper way you need 2 guys. When the pedal starts to be depressed crack the bleeder and then close it before he reaches the very bottom.

 

thank you very much
That is the exact answer I was looking for
Now

Can you belled the master cylinder on the car the same way?
Crack open the MC then close it before the pedal reaches the bottom?

 

UNfortunately, no. The line is not at the highest point of the cylinder itself, so no matter how much you bleed it on the car, the air won't ever come out that way.

You will have to "bench bleed" it.

 

The Haynes 82-92 Camaro manual shows some pictures of bench bleeding, if that'll help. Also, try to raise the butt of the car up high when you put the m/c back on the car. It'll help with bleeding.. the more level you can make the master cylinder body (not reservoir top, the aluminum body), the easier the bleeding will be.

And if you get totally fed up with bleeding, like I did, check out http://www.brakebleeder.com - much better than a Mityvac! Took me about 5 minutes to bleed the rear of the car, no pedal pushing involved! (I bought the V12 w/Smart Pak)

 

yeah I was thinking about purchasing one of those bleeders. From what I've heard in the past their pretty good. I purchased a mighty vac in the past, used it once and never again. Thing was a piece of crap.